Question on 1845 or 1850 slope mowers

[Gravy]

When I visited, Ernie at PT had a story about a municipality that thought the exposed muffler was too dangerous (at 190F) and had it covered in a bracket. Apparently, it came to light as this trapped heat below the muffler and caused a fire. (from chaff?)

All the best,

Peter

Just to clarify - the Chevy heat shield went on the starter. Some people used aluminum foil successfully. YMMV

 

[ernemats]

I am attaching a picture of the bracket I am talking about it is right beside the starter. Today I ran it for about 5 or 10 minutes the temp. gauge went up about half way and the fan did not kick on. 1 hour later I went to start it and nothing. The beeper comes on but when you turn key to the start position not even a click. I left it sit while I changed a tire and then tried it and it started right up.

 

[Clarke]

Check the voltage to the starter solenoid when the key is in the start position. No voltage check key switch and wiring. Voltage at solenoid, something is probably up with the solenoid. Check the grounds.

sg

 

[ponytug]

Dear Ernemats,

That is the bracket for the second starter solenoid. You should have a 1986(ish) Ford starter solenoid on that bracket. (See image below. The exact year is on a different post.) The lead from the ignition key goes to the second solenoid, which switches power on to the actual starter, which is pretty finicky about having enough voltage. When it gets hot, the rather circuitous routing of the starter solenoid wire can leave it at under 10V, with the problem that you are experiencing. With a little cooling off, the battery recovers, and the voltage is high enough to start the engine.

Of course, you can have the problem that even with the second solenoid, the voltage is too low, but that's another post. (I think Charlie Iliff and I are going through that at the moment. I think that the ignition switch may have too high a resistance in it.)

All the best,

Peter

I am attaching a picture of the bracket I am talking about it is right beside the starter. Today I ran it for about 5 or 10 minutes the temp. gauge went up about half way and the fan did not kick on. 1 hour later I went to start it and nothing. The beeper comes on but when you turn key to the start position not even a click. I left it sit while I changed a tire and then tried it and it started right up.

 

[Bob999]

When I had a similar problem with my 1845 the problem ultimately turned out to be broken wires --there were still a couple of wires that were not broken and they allowed enought current to flow when the hydraulic cooler fan was not running to pull in the starter solenoid. However, when the hydraulic cooler was active the voltage drop increased and the result was no start.

 

[Gravy]

Dear Ernemats,

That is the bracket for the second starter solenoid. You should have a 1986(ish) Ford starter solenoid on that bracket. (See image below. The exact year is on a different post.) The lead from the ignition key goes to the second solenoid, which switches power on to the actual starter, which is pretty finicky about having enough voltage. When it gets hot, the rather circuitous routing of the starter solenoid wire can leave it at under 10V, with the problem that you are experiencing. With a little cooling off, the battery recovers, and the voltage is high enough to start the engine.

Of course, you can have the problem that even with the second solenoid, the voltage is too low, but that's another post. (I think Charlie Iliff and I are going through that at the moment. I think that the ignition switch may have too high a resistance in it.)

All the best,

Peter

There's a lot of good advice stemming from a lot of experience in this thread. I don't think there is a magic bullet for this kind of problem. The problem results from the cumulative effects of heat, corrosion, and vibration, etc, all as a result of manufacturing cost-cutting. The best solution likely is a systemic approach of improving all of those issues.

Fix bad connections. Add a relay. Add heat shielding. Install a bigger/better battery. Spend a couple hundred bucks (at most) and a weekend's tinkering, and the starting headache will likely be gone for years to come.

 

[ponytug]

I agree!

Ernemats, I was looking at your picture again, and it almost looks to me as if you already have a second solenoid, but mounted in a different location. What is down below the starter in your photo, to the left?

All the best,

Peter

There's a lot of good advice stemming from a lot of experience in this thread. I don't think there is a magic bullet for this kind of problem. The problem results from the cumulative effects of heat, corrosion, and vibration, etc, all as a result of manufacturing cost-cutting. The best solution likely is a systemic approach of improving all of those issues.

Fix bad connections. Add a relay. Add heat shielding. Install a bigger/better battery. Spend a couple hundred bucks (at most) and a weekend's tinkering, and the starting headache will likely be gone for years to come.

 

[Rip]

Not sure, but looks like an auto-reset circuit breaker perhaps?

BTW.....have had no statring issues with my '02 vintage 1845....so far! No second relay or other modifications either.