i was looking to do a knockdown finish in my basement.. i had really high estimates to finish my basement and decided to do so myself... however, the estimators said the textured finish would be cheaper than smooth.. why would that be? can i get away with 2 skim coats before the splatter stuff? or just not have to sand the third coat or something? from what i can tell in my upstairs, it doesn't seem like the knockdown would cover the walls at 100% so they MAY need to be done to a smooth coat first, then textured? confused.. thanks in advance!
question on drywall knockdown finishing...
- Thread starter Skerby
- Start date
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Ronbo
Silver Member
I do 2 coats on the seams, then wet sponge it, not sand.
You can buy a cheap spray gun at harbour freight. I have one that I have been using for 18 yrs. buy a I have a regulator for a spray gun that I placed on the texture gun, so I can asjust and turn off the air.
Thin the mud, use a large potatoe masher tool (home depot) to mix it up. You can spray at lower pressure and have the wife knock it down after a few minutes, or you can up the pressure and let it just spatter on the wall.
Ron
You can buy a cheap spray gun at harbour freight. I have one that I have been using for 18 yrs. buy a I have a regulator for a spray gun that I placed on the texture gun, so I can asjust and turn off the air.
Thin the mud, use a large potatoe masher tool (home depot) to mix it up. You can spray at lower pressure and have the wife knock it down after a few minutes, or you can up the pressure and let it just spatter on the wall.
Ron
cast_and_blast
Platinum Member
The texturing will hide the flaws that would be very evident if you were doing a smooth ceiling.
Good luck!
Scott
what and why would there be flaws?
in other words how are knockdown walls and ceilings prepared?
smooth walls are typically finished with 3 coats and sanded..
are you both suggesting just 3 coats and NO sanding will be good to go for texturing? thx....
in other words how are knockdown walls and ceilings prepared?
smooth walls are typically finished with 3 coats and sanded..
are you both suggesting just 3 coats and NO sanding will be good to go for texturing? thx....
RobJ
Elite Member
Gonna take a stab here and say you've never done d-wall before. Am I right? Smoothing out joints is an art. Personally I hate it. I can do a small area fine that I'm not in any hurry, I probably go over it 5-6 times. A real d-waller doesn't sand. Watch one and you'll understand.
there is really nothing hard about it, but after you are finished with the smoothing, turn off the lights and turn on a side light and see what's there. The knock down will and texture will take away some of the shawdowing. With a knock down you have to watch the timing, spray the mud...usally wetter than you think...it can be messy...because you are spraying mud everywhere.
Then the timing on when to knock it down. Again sort of a feel of the right time. A texture is much easier for the novice. Mix the mud about the same as above, again wetter the better. Then get a 1" or bigger nap roller and roll away. Finish in one direction to get the orange peel look desired. You can do a room really fast and not much mess.
Good Luck...
Rob
BTW did I say I hate d-walling and mudding? Did 160 sheets in the weekend house I built and hated every minute but the first!!
RobertN
Super Member
Smooth is much harder to do, takes more work, and a skilled person doing it. Labor is more expensive than just texturing it.
CurlyDave
Elite Member
Before you do anything get a couple of estimates from dry wall companies.
My experience has been that they will hang the rock, tape & texture for just about what it would cost in materials for me to do it myself, counting my labor as zero.
My experience has been that they will hang the rock, tape & texture for just about what it would cost in materials for me to do it myself, counting my labor as zero.
riptides
Super Star Member
I have gotten to the point where I don't sand anymore. I apply coat after coat after coat after coat after coat after coat.....
After three house remodels and additions, I have the skill.....
Pay someone else to do it.
After three house remodels and additions, I have the skill.....
Pay someone else to do it.
first quote was a local guy in the yellow pages.. $6,500,
second quote was a guy 20miles away, $3,500.
these quotes are for my basement which is 80% hung already.
i bought the wal-board hopper gun from home depot and a bag of texture stuff.. i did a test patch and it was 'ugly!'
i'm going to test with joint compound thinned out and see how that works out.. knocking it down at 5 minute intervals from 20 - 30 minutes i guess..
yea, i can do a flawless patch, but butt joints are tought.. i'm practicing in one room in the basement and learning as i go..
second quote was a guy 20miles away, $3,500.
these quotes are for my basement which is 80% hung already.
i bought the wal-board hopper gun from home depot and a bag of texture stuff.. i did a test patch and it was 'ugly!'
i'm going to test with joint compound thinned out and see how that works out.. knocking it down at 5 minute intervals from 20 - 30 minutes i guess..
yea, i can do a flawless patch, but butt joints are tought.. i'm practicing in one room in the basement and learning as i go..
riptides
Super Star Member
I found it best to buy 5 gallon buckets of mud and BIG spreading tools.
I also used bright indirect light and that really helps.
Good luck.
I also used bright indirect light and that really helps.
Good luck.
CurlyDave
Elite Member
I found it best to buy 5 gallon buckets of mud and BIG spreading tools.
Actually, if you are going to do it yourself, you use graduated spreading tools. Start with 4", then go to 6" for the second coat of mud and finally 8" for the last coat. Wet sand with one of the special sponges and you are ready for texture.
Being an amateur, I wet sand lightly between coats. Grooves or depressions in the mud after the first or second coat get filled in on later coats. A bump or a ridge forces the trowel away from the wall and causes problems.
You will also need a tape "banjo" to put a coat of mud on the paper tape you use on the joints. I spent about $70 on a medium quality one many, many years ago. Practice with it before you work on an exposed wall. Tape the inside of your closets first before you do the living areas.
Actually, if you are going to do it yourself, you use graduated spreading tools. Start with 4", then go to 6" for the second coat of mud and finally 8" for the last coat. Wet sand with one of the special sponges and you are ready for texture.
Being an amateur, I wet sand lightly between coats. Grooves or depressions in the mud after the first or second coat get filled in on later coats. A bump or a ridge forces the trowel away from the wall and causes problems.
You will also need a tape "banjo" to put a coat of mud on the paper tape you use on the joints. I spent about $70 on a medium quality one many, many years ago. Practice with it before you work on an exposed wall. Tape the inside of your closets first before you do the living areas.
jsboening
Silver Member
I found it's best to pay someone to do what their good at. I'll go to work and do what I'm good at. There are a lot of things I don't mind doing myself. Drywalling isn't one of them.
ihookem
Gold Member
This is what you do, get it all hung, then tape it with mesh tape for the compressed edges. The 4' but joints get paper tape. Inside corners get paper tape too. Thin down the mud a little for the tape. The Sheetrock green bucket or the Sheetrock bag mix is best for tape. Keep it thin so it can be wiped down with the knife. It keeps it from building up too much. This is the first mistake with beginners. Let it dry and give it another coat with Sheetrock blue bucket or bag mix like 210 bond. Keep it thinner than peanut butter or a little thicker than pancake mix. Give it another coat after you scrape or lightly sand the impefections but not much. Most begginers need to sand a little at this point. Get ready for the third coat(including the tape) Third coat gets thin bucket mix. The flats get a 6-8" knife for tape, the rest gets a 10 or 12" knife. Inside corners use 4-6" knife, 4" is easier. A tape and a coat should be enough for insides. Outside corners get 2 coats with a 10 or 12". When all is sanded nice 100 grit sand paper, just take your time and go over imperfections like streaks or bumps. Next you prime it for knockdown so the mud dries evenly when you spray it on the wall. Blue bucket mud is best for knockdown. 4-5 12oz. cups of water are best and mix it good. Get a hopper from wherever but the best is a Marshaltown. Use the biggest orfice. Now put the compressor at 40-60 lbs and keep it even. Thicker is ussually better. Covering about 30-40% of the wall is best. Spray about 100 sq. feet at a time. The mud should sit on the wall 5-10 min depending on humidity and temp. A damp col day is good for knockdown. A 12" knife is best for knockdown. Lightly knock it down evenly. After it is dry whipe it with a broom to get the "flakes " off the wall. If you fnd streaks, sand them off lightly. Do not cut corners with coats of mud when doing knockdown or it will look like crap because it will knockdown more on the high spots and less where there is an indent from not having enough coats on the joints. If you have any other questions message back or p.m. me. Just don't do all that work the wrong way, it's real easy.
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
While I don't do sheetrock for a living, I do make a good living at it when it's what I'm hired to do. For new sheetrock, I like fiberglass tape that sticks. Some does, others dont. I buy the mud by the box, it's cheaper this way. First thing that I do is mix in a bunch of water with the mud. One box will take several quarts to get it right for spreading. I use my 6 inch trowel for my first coat. I also use an inside angle trowel for all the inside corners.
Usually it's just a quick, light sanding to get it smooth enough for the second layer. This time I use my 12 inch trowel after mixing the mud really good with water. This is pretty much my finish coat, so I work it real good.
Third coat is after I sand it down for tecturing. I then use my 6 inch trowel again to fill low spots, voids or other imperfections. While it's still drying and wet, I'll spray on the texture.
Depending on what the client wants, I'll go from a light orange peal, to a heavy texture. The more texture, the better it is at hiding problems in the framing. Paint in a flat paint also helps. The more gloss, the more you'll see.
Rob has a good suggestion on the roller. Those are very popular on walls that had walpaper on them and were never textured.
My favorite method is to tape and mud two coats. Then instead of doing a final coat of mud and spraying on texture, I like to spread it on the walls with a 6 inch trowel. Just spread it on the walls and let it overlap where it does. The idea is to make it look rustic and a little rough.
Paint looks great on a wall like this, but for a really impressive finish, paint and then put on a faux finish by adding a glaze to the paint. I like a dark, tobaco stained look to a light brown painted wall. Of course, anything from off white to bone to toupe all look great and go with anything.
Be careful of the so called experts. Some are very good and they tend to stay busy. If they are available to do your little project, then somobody else isn't using them for a reason. Here, you have to wait months for a good crew to do a job. I personally have a three month waiting list right now with a good chance of that changing real soon.
Good luck,
Eddie
Usually it's just a quick, light sanding to get it smooth enough for the second layer. This time I use my 12 inch trowel after mixing the mud really good with water. This is pretty much my finish coat, so I work it real good.
Third coat is after I sand it down for tecturing. I then use my 6 inch trowel again to fill low spots, voids or other imperfections. While it's still drying and wet, I'll spray on the texture.
Depending on what the client wants, I'll go from a light orange peal, to a heavy texture. The more texture, the better it is at hiding problems in the framing. Paint in a flat paint also helps. The more gloss, the more you'll see.
Rob has a good suggestion on the roller. Those are very popular on walls that had walpaper on them and were never textured.
My favorite method is to tape and mud two coats. Then instead of doing a final coat of mud and spraying on texture, I like to spread it on the walls with a 6 inch trowel. Just spread it on the walls and let it overlap where it does. The idea is to make it look rustic and a little rough.
Paint looks great on a wall like this, but for a really impressive finish, paint and then put on a faux finish by adding a glaze to the paint. I like a dark, tobaco stained look to a light brown painted wall. Of course, anything from off white to bone to toupe all look great and go with anything.
Be careful of the so called experts. Some are very good and they tend to stay busy. If they are available to do your little project, then somobody else isn't using them for a reason. Here, you have to wait months for a good crew to do a job. I personally have a three month waiting list right now with a good chance of that changing real soon.
Good luck,
Eddie
