Questions about log splitter build - size of parts...

[JimS]

I have a log splitter, or at least parts of one that I want to fix up. My plan was to run it off the tractor hydraulics - about 8 GPM. I split about 5 cords a year and figured it wouldn't be that much time on the tractor.

The existing push plate is 1/2" plate and pretty bent up. And the guide for the beam is lousy and allows the whole assembly to twist. I figure I should just redo the whole push plate assembly.

One question is how thick should I make the push plate, the plate that runs on the I beam, and the strips that go below the I beam flange to keep the slider on the beam? I figured I would put braces near each side that will help strengthen it.

Was also looking at how the fixed end of the cylinder is currently attached. 4 bolts in shear between the cylinder bracket and beam. Think they are 1/2". Seemed a bit small to me but I could be wrong.

It has a 5" cylinder that needs rebuilding. I may do that or get a 4" cylinder.

I found a good deal on a 4" x 24" but the rod is only 1.5". Had figured on using 2" rod. Is 1.5" big enough? How careful will I have to be not to bend it?

Thanks,

Jim

 

[crazyal]

I guess I would have to ask why you would want to do all this work and how much do you think you would save over an MTD splitter from Home Depot or Lowes? I know there are plenty here who like using a tractor to power a splitter but I never understood it. Even the smallest gas powered splitter has a two stage pump that's 11gpm until it gets into the meat of the wood.

I split about 6 cord a year with my Wheel Horse (MTD) splitter with a 5.5hp Honda. I bet I put about 10 hours each year splitting wood. I'm sure I could cut an hour or two off of that but it's not just the splitting but also getting the wood onto the splitter and then dealing with the split wood in a way that's not going to cause you more work, like say just tossing it into a pile.

Now that I've had a splitter for 5 years now what I can tell you is this. I would rather have the wedge on the saddle than the push plate. I often split logs more than once to get some smaller pieces. The push plate pushes the wood off of the back requiring you to pick it up at least two more times (each split piece). Secondly if you split for any length of time the pile of split wood gets big. If it's just falling off of the back of the splitter you'll need to stop and move the splitter often.

With a wedge on the saddle once they split you can toss them where you want or resplit them much easier. Secondly although I can stand up my splitter to split large logs I use the front end loader to hold several large logs and place it so I can just roll them right onto the splitter.

I would add up just what this will cost you and the fact it will be slower and more costly, fuel and wear and tear on your tractor. I'm sorry but I can't help you figure out how much force or HP will be needed with the cylinder you are thinking of using. What I can tell you is my saddle has adjustment bolts on one side that can tighten up any sideways rotational slop. There's also ajustments for the thinkness of the I-beam.

I got a 20% off coupon for Home Depot off of eBay and then walked into Lowes who honered it without question. I think it was under $1100 total.

 

[JimS]

Well... This is the Build it yourself forum .... Your points are well taken but not what I asked. People don't always do the most efficient thing or may have different ideas about what is most efficient or may not even care about efficiency. The most efficient would probably be just renting one for a weekend after I get all the wood cut up and ready. I can rent one for just over $100 for a weekend. Hard to justify the investment and space for keeping one at that price. That may be what I end up doing. Although I can spread out the splitting a bit more if I had my own....

 

[crazyal]

Don't get me wrong. I am a "do it yourself"er. There's the whole satisfaction of doing something as well as the fun that goes with the work.

I would first ask the hydraulic questions in the Hydraulics forum. I'm guessing that 5" cylinder will give you a lot of force (30 plus tons) and will split pretty much anything but was most likely designed to work with a 16gmp two stage pump pump. With 8gpm it may be slow requiring you to rev up your tractor. The 4" cylinder is the size usually used on about a 20 ton splitter, should be fine for most logs.

I would then look at the splitters for sale at your local brick and mortar stores to get ideas. Bring a tape measure with you. I think the flat plate on mine is 3/4" thick and the mount for the cylinder is welded onto the i-beam.

 

[Oliver1655]

Hi Jim, This reply may come to late, if so I would be interested in hearing what you did and seeing pictures. This is what I used in building mine:
- 11 hp Greyhound electric start engine from Harbor Freight, works well, starts with 1 pull manually (even my daughter can start it), run it at a fast idle
- 4" x 24" cylinder with a 1.75" rod 2500 psi for splitting
- 3" x 10" cylinder for log lift
- Haldex 16 gpm 2 stage pump
- Oil cooler off an old rotary air compressor (Has 3/4" inlet/outlets)
- 8 gal reservoir with 3/4" return lines
- 4 Energy hydraulic valves in series (Have a 20 gpm flow and the main bodies are milled the same. This allows you to change the configuration of the valve without re-plumbing/removing. This was very handy when I found out I could not place 2 of the C-908 "Wood Splitting" valves in series. on the maiden voyage, when the 2nd stage of the pump kicked in, the log lift started to raise. I found out when I call the company - NO Holding! Yes!!!, that the C-908 wood splitting valve could not have another valve following it. I was able to take the end cap and spool out of the main body and replace it with a double spring return valve in less than 5 minutes. I did consider the Prince auto return valve, but did not feel with the configuration I have, it would be worth the money. The 1st valve splits, 2nd valve lifts logs, 3rd valve will run drive wheel, 4th valve will raise and lower drive wheel which will double as a jack stand. I may add a 5th valve later to allow for a steering cylinder. I am still thinking on it.
- Added a log lift instead of a Davit/winch setup. I can load the lift with wood to split and turn the engine off during re-load periods, cuts my fuel use in half. If I had went with a larger cylinder which would have allowed for a multi-split wedge, I would have added a davit/winch to allow for lowering the log for multi passes.
- Most of the wood I split is 3' or smaller. I have a wide variety of species to include elm I use. I did not attempt to build a 4 way as most of the wood I split is full of knots and I would not have had enough tonnage to handle one.
- I have tables for the out feed which will fold up for transport. Once the wood is loaded on the log lift, it doesn't hit the ground unless I am puposely building a windrow. The drive wheel will allow me to back away from the pile as I go.
- I purposely built a wider wheel base - 5' between fenders to allow for better stability when lifting large logs and pulling a 12' trailer behind it. I have had no problems with this set up.
- I used a mobile home axle I had around. I have several trailers I have built over the years with mobile home axles and have never had a problem with them. However new laws prevent building new trailers with them.

 

[Oliver1655]

Jim, Here are some pictures of my splitter. I took them at night to send to my son at the Air Force Academy so please forgive the quality. For some reason, I was not allowed to attach them to my last post.

 

[chainsawnut]

Hey in photo 4 just behind the ram there looks to be a trailer coupler,is it just sitting in the pic or does it have a purpose.
I have been trying to work out what it does cheers

 

[Oliver1655]

Good eyes, that is the coupler for the splitter. I designed it so I can screw (1.5" bolt) a 2" coupler or an eye bolt into the tongue so it can be pulled with a pintle hitch as well. An added benefit is I can put the coupler in the cab and decrease the risk of someone driving off with it.

 

[chainsawnut]

got given another 10hp honda motor yesterday so with the one I have I should get to build a good one from the 2

 

[ovrszd]

Now that I've had a splitter for 5 years now what I can tell you is this. I would rather have the wedge on the saddle than the push plate. I often split logs more than once to get some smaller pieces. The push plate pushes the wood off of the back requiring you to pick it up at least two more times (each split piece). Secondly if you split for any length of time the pile of split wood gets big. If it's just falling off of the back of the splitter you'll need to stop and move the splitter often.

With a wedge on the saddle once they split you can toss them where you want or resplit them much easier. Secondly although I can stand up my splitter to split large logs I use the front end loader to hold several large logs and place it so I can just roll them right onto the splitter.

I can't agree with these statements. The fix for you problems are shown in Oliver's pictures. A catch table is a must on a splitter regardless of who built it. Also moves the wood away from the operator where a second set of hands can pile/load the split wood without getting dangerously in the way.

I first built a PTO ran winch and now use a trailer mounted/gas powered. Each have an advantage.

I never considered the tach hours on the tractor. I'm sure the tractor engine has a tremendously longer lifespan than the little gas powered engine, that's a no brainer to me.