Backhoe R & R 3720/447 backhoe

[Yourkie]

Assuming the 447 backhoe has been installed properly with power beyond kit, etc. .....about how much time does it take to remove a 447 backhoe and reinstall the 3 point hitch on a 3x20 tractor. Any tips on this to speed up the process or make it easier?

How about the reverse and reinstalling the bh? Thanks.

 

[Cidertom]

Since the 447 and 448 use same mounting scheme.
I can dump the hoe, and be back to 3pt in about 5 minutes. About the same to connect.

My method (starting with 3pt on)
3pt at about 3/4 full raise. Remove locking pins on stabilizers. remove pin on arm mounting pin, remove pin on rockshaft. Pull link off of rockshaft and twist to disengage the arm from arm mounting pin. set aside.
Remove ring pin from stabilizer and remove female half, reassemble stabilizer, store.

To reattach 3pt arms
place arm in correct position (right vs left). Twist to place arm on arm mouting pin. Place link on rockshaft. Insert pins. Attach stabilizers by removing locking pin and slide it into position, install pin and lock ring.


Hints on hoe installation: I have to place bucket at full dump and place a block of wood under the bucket. JD's way of curling the bucket until flat doesn't work for me due to bucket leak-down.

If you find the pins that hold the hoe in place are a pain to install due to too little lift. The 3 pt control may need adjusting. This is a threaded rod that will have to be adjusted to proper lenght.

Once the mounting pins are in place drop the rockshaft a little to remove any weight on it. I didn't and had some wear/ displacement on the top of the rockshaft pins.

 

[Cocre]

I have a 3320 with a 447 backhoe. I do not use the "factory" described method to remove or install the hoe, I was never able to adjust the hooks to where it would work to remove or install the hoe every time. With my method the hoe is off or on in two minutes, every time. It is probably not as safe as the factory way.

To take the hoe off, try this. Engine running, off the seat. Make certain the rockshaft control lever is in the down position. Then to remove the hoe take the clips off the big pins that hold the hoe to the frame, level the bottom of the bucket, and place a cinder block on the ground under where the bucket will rest. Then lower the stabilizers until they both just take the load of the hoe. Step to the right side and ease the right stabilizer up or down ever so slightly till you can slip the big pin out. Once out go to the left side and do the same with the left stabilizer. Once both pins are out, ease both stabilizers up at the same time and this will lower the hoe so the bucket rests on the cinder block and the hoe on the ground. Once on the ground raise the stabilizers all the way up and turn the engine off, and then wiggle the boom lever and stabilizer lever just slightly to take the pressure off the hydraulics then disconnect the quick connects and connect the line for the 3-point hitch. Before starting the tractor make certain all the hoses are clear and firmly connected or not. Sit on the seat, start the tractor, make certain the hitch pins have cleared the hooks, then drive off. Two minutes, honest.

To install or remove the hitch arms takes a bit longer, but it is pretty straight forward. The only tip I can give you is to remove the lift links from the tractor hitch arms last when removing, and put them on first when installing. Use the lock pins too, it just holds everything up while you take off and put on everything else.

To put the hoe on, raise the hoe as high as it can go with the rockshaft, do not let the hydraulics go into relief, if it does, just back off a bit on the rockshaft lever. Turn the tractor off. At this point, DO NOT TOUCH ROCKSHAFT CONTROL LEVER. Disconnect the hitch hydraulic quick connect (one line) and connect the hoe hydraulics (two lines). The rockshaft will maintain the hoe in its position even when the line is disconnected. Off seat, start the tractor, and lower both stabilizers together just enough to take the load. Now you can lower the rockshaft control lever, the rockshaft will remain in the hoe hooks but will not be carrying the load. Step to the right side and ease the right stabilizer up or down ever so slightly till you can slip the big pin in. Once in go to the left side and do the same with the left stabilizer. Two minutes, honest. Oh, and don't forget to put the clips back in the big pins.

It takes some practice to be gentle with the stabilizers. Be easy, be careful. I hope I didn't leave anything out.

 

[Cidertom]

I have a 3320 with a 447 backhoe. I do not use the "factory" described method to remove or install the hoe, I was never able to adjust the hooks to where it would work to remove or install the hoe every time. .

The hooks are not the adjustment you need. The rockshaft it's self is out of adjustment. By adjusting the link rod you should have the ability to make "full up" equal slip fit for the big pins. Once adjusted correctly it's a 30 second job to get the hoe mounted. Mine was adjusted by the tech when my hoe was installed.

have fun

 

[Cocre]

The hooks are not the adjustment you need. The rockshaft it's self is out of adjustment. By adjusting the link rod you should have the ability to make "full up" equal slip fit for the big pins. Once adjusted correctly it's a 30 second job to get the hoe mounted. Mine was adjusted by the tech when my hoe was installed.

have fun

Yes, I have adjusted that too. Most of it is my laziness. I worked with the hooks several times and then adjusted the rockshaft link rod till everything was perfect. It worked well for several dismounts and mounts, then it got out of adjustment again, so I just got used to doing it my way.

The biggest help to me is the cinder block under the bucket, without it the hoe leaned back too far for the hitch arms to get underneath the hooks.

 

[Yourkie]

Thanks all for the feedback and the detailed info. I had thought I remembered reading on here some time ago (couldn't find it) where the hoe removal was tricky as was the 3 pt reinstall also. 5 minutes or so sounds good.

I look forward to getting it installed and then I'll have a better feel for the process. I'm planning on doing a 85 x 4 foot retaining wall as one of the first chores.

BTW have you found loaded rear tires a necessity and do you leave on the MM mower? The 72 mower is a chore to remove.

 

[Cocre]

I do not own a mmm, so I cannot offer any advice with that. My tires are unloaded also.

 

[Cidertom]

BTW have you found loaded rear tires a necessity and do you leave on the MM mower? The 72 mower is a chore to remove.

Not having a MM mower, I can't address that. For serious loader work you need some weight, how much depends on your loads. On the 4x20 series with the 400cx the book value is loaded rear tires, ballast box and wheel weights. Your loader/ tractor manual should be able to give the amount you need. Proper ballast is likely to give you fits when it comes to mowing the yard though.

 

[Jrrcorp]

I have to put a 6" x 6" under the hoe to keep it high enough so that the rock shaft arms will slide ubder the hooks to pick up the hoe. Am I doing something wrong that I need to do it this way?

 

[Cocre]

I have to put a 6" x 6" under the hoe to keep it high enough so that the rock shaft arms will slide ubder the hooks to pick up the hoe. Am I doing something wrong that I need to do it this way?

Not as far as I am concerned. The first time I removed my hoe I did not put a block under the bucket, and I didn't think I would ever get the hoe back on the tractor. It was leaning too far back for the arms to get under the hooks.