Radiator repair or replace ?

   / Radiator repair or replace ? #1  

SimonT

New member
Joined
Apr 25, 2011
Messages
13
Location
S.W Missouri
My Cub cadet 7272 radiator has rusted to one of the cores. The radiator shop did tried and see if they could repair it but looks like they are going to have to rebuild all the cores.

Cost to do that is about $365 the part number for the replacement radiator is MA-19640412000 and lists at over $500. Should I go with the repair or try and look around for a replacement radiator ? Not sure if I could find a aftermarket radiator that would fit the 7272.
 
   / Radiator repair or replace ? #2  
If your tank's are in good shape, theres no reason having the shop do a recore won't be a lasting repair. Even finding a used radiator my require some attention to be sure its clean inside.
 
   / Radiator repair or replace ? #4  
Is the problem core reachable? Just have it stubbed off, top and bottom, close the the tanks. My 7274 never got a bit warm and had to have cardboard over most of the radiator in the cold months. I also stubbed off a leaking core myself. Just remember, if you stub it off, you must do both ends near the tanks so it doesn't freeze out.

Let me know if you ever want to sell that K3M Mitsubishi engine.
 
   / Radiator repair or replace ?
  • Thread Starter
#5  
I have only been using the tractor this summer so not sure what the last owner was using in the radiator in terms of coolant or anti-rust.

The problem core is reachable so it might be able to have the ends stubed.

PS this tractor has lots of life left in it and I have many plans for it but if it all go's pear shaped then I will let you know about the engine.
 
   / Radiator repair or replace ? #6  
A warning about that engine in that kind of tractor. If you have rust in the cooling system, and ever have occasion to drain the system to prevent freezing, be aware the the common drain connecting the radiator drain to the block drain is not trustworthy. The block drain can become clogged and when you think you have drained it, the block is not necessarily drained. This is what happened to my 7274. I believed I had drained it but was wrong. It froze and cracked the block. The CC dealer told me I now had "a paperweight." That was the last year for that engine design. It's a good engine design, and a crappy drain design. Knowing what I know now, I would get rid of the common drain and put a regular drain valve on the block, so I could be sure it was draining. I have a heck of a nice $16,000 paperweight. With all the extras when it died, I could say it was a $25,000 paperweight.

PS: Check the frame bolts on the sides and front of the engine often, put in new lock washers, and LockTite the bolts! That's how my troubles began. When they get loose, the moving frame racks the radiator side to side in a parallelogram type motion. That is how my radiator got full of leaks. The leaks are why I was running water in the system, instead of antifreeze. The loosening bolts are a common trouble with all the 72** series CCs (I learned too late on forums like this), even with the later design engines. On the 727*s with the K3M engine, there are four on each side, and two bolts and two studs on the front of the engine that are quite hard to get to, or see. They are inside the frame rails and just aft of the sheet metal guard below the radiator. These on the front are the most important. If you have an FEL, the bolts all work much harder, and will loosen faster.
 
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