Grading Raising rear blade higher

   / Raising rear blade higher #1  

Mike_BS_WV

New member
Joined
May 4, 2004
Messages
6
Location
Berkeley Springs, WV
Tractor
NH TC35D
I've had my TC35D for just under a year now and my world has revolved exclusively around the FEL with GP bucket and pallet forks. I just got my first 3 point hitch attachment, a Woods RB84 rear blade. I'm repairing a 1000' shale driveway and adding side drainage ditches. My 72" wheelbase and the 84" blade work out fine on the level parts, but I've got a pretty steep section yet to do. Once I offset the blade to get further beyond the wheelbase and tip the blade to do trenching, I can't get it high enough for transport (or to back up and take another wack at a tough spot). It looks like I can raise the height of the left lift arm by moving up one hole (it's currently in the center hole). But there is also a hole on both lower lift arms a little farther out. The manual doesn't touch on this topic at all, and if I didn't have the forum, I'd probably just play and see what happens. Is there anything I should be aware of before changing things around?

Thanks in advance,
Mike
 

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   / Raising rear blade higher #2  
Mike, it sounds to me like you've "got a handle" on what you need to do. that's exactly what you should do. One thing you might notice is that your clearance between you lift arm link and the anti-sway adjuster will be less. As the arms try to sway toward the tires, the space will pinch down as the angle changes. I don't think that will be a problem, but that's the only place I can imagine you might see things getting close.

Can you take a picture of your whole blade setup and post it too? There might be something we aren't seeing. You'll find lots of folks with useful suggestions here. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
 
   / Raising rear blade higher #3  
I believe using the holes closer to the tractor provides higher lift, while using the holes closer to the implement provides more weight lift, less range of height? However, it's all geometry & your tractor may be built differently & do the opposite.

I assume you have the right side cranked down for your tilt down. If you use the highest hole on the left side, you would not need to crank the right side down as far, will help some.

I'm sure someone here will want you to spend the money on a Top & Tilt, which powers all this with hydraulics. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

--->Paul
 
   / Raising rear blade higher #4  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I believe using the holes closer to the tractor provides higher lift, while using the holes closer to the implement provides more weight lift, less range of height? )</font>

I think you are right about that outer hole in the lift arm, Paul. That hole will certainly not let the arms lower as far as they will in the back hole, and as the lift arm rotates up above level, the maximum height will be achieved with the rear hole. Perhaps Mike should only change to the top hole in the sidelink forks first and see if that's enough to make his blade work properly.

...and if he adds TnT, he can do blade work with a big happy grin on his face. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

There! I'll be the first to "spend his money" on hydraulic goodies. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
   / Raising rear blade higher
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Actually while trenching I'm using the tilt on the blade itself for gross angle adjustment and fine tuning with the crank. At a few points I used the crank to reduce the angle provided by the blade's adjustment, but most of the time to increase it. When I get a chance I'll try the upper hole in the left fork, but this is definitely a lesson in why Top & Tilt would be handy.

thanks,
Mike
 
   / Raising rear blade higher
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Your comment about the anti-sway adjuster is along the lines of things that I didn't think about but probably should. This is all still pretty new to me and would rather not be burned by something simple that is common knowledge to everyone else. I'll try to get a picture next time I get out there.

I don't need any convincing about the Top & Tilt. Before getting the rear blade I was considering a box blade. From the posts explaining it's use, I wouldn't want to get a box blade without Top & Tilt. Less then a half hour working with the rear blade convinced me that things would go a lot quicker with it. Trying to maneuver with the blade offset and tilted only reinforces the argument.

My tractor budget for this year is already spent, but in my wish list for next year, Integration Engineering's TCC looks mighty tempting. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

thanks,
Mike
 

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