rake/driveway question

[bellweather]

I took advantage of the damp weather and raked my gravel driveway. I was successful in eliminating pot holes and ruts, however I created other problems:

washboard effect - seems that once these occur, it's difficult to avoid componding the problem because everytime the tractor climbs up and down a mound, the rake will dig in deeper as the tractor is going up and then make light contact on the down side.

windrow - as I raked, material escaped the rake and was deposited at the edge of the driveway. This created a kind of a raised border or dam along the leangth of the driveway, which had the effect of containing the rain water. I had to resort to using a hand rake to disperse this ridge of material. I tried changing the tilt and angle of the rake, but with only moderate improvement.

I'm assuming it's the operator and not the equipment, so any tips would be much appreciated.

Thanks

 

[Von]

Bellweather,
You need the gauge wheels on the rake to get rid of the washboard effect. This way you let the rake float and the tractor going up or down will not have an effect on it. The wheels make all the difference in the world. Will help with the windrowing as well.

 

[RAllen]

Bellweather

Do you have gauge wheels on your rake? Carefully using them with the proper angle of attack on the rake will get rid of the washboard.

To get rid of the windrows, I angle my blade to deposit the windrow in the center of the road. This redirects your gravel back onto the surface where it is needed- off the edge and and any shoulder. I do this up each side. I then raise the rake, returning it to a "straight" position and distribute the combined windrow in the center. Because the rake is raised, much of your material will slid along the rake and dump out before it reaches the edge. I hope the above is clear. It took a little fiddling and sometimes I have to make more than one pass.

I think you will find that rake the best thing around for road maintainence. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Rick

 

[WVBill]

bellweather:
I've used my rake and box blade to maintain my driveway and the gravel roads in our subdivision for the last several years and here's what I've found:

You can't repair potholes, ruts and washboard with the rake alone. After raking, it may look like you've eliminated the potholes but all you've done is fill them in with loose gravel. I've found that I need to run the boxblade with rippers down up and down the road several times. The box/rippers should be set so that the rippers are just deep enough to get to the bottom of the potholes/ruts/washboard. Set the top link of the box so that the blade itself isan inch or so above the surface of the road. When you start ripping, the box will get a nice roll of gravel in it and start to help eliminate the washboard.

When you're done with the box, put on the rake and set it at an angle (i.e. rotated) and also swung around so it's "Back raking" run the rake starting at the outside of the road so that the windrow deposits toward the middle - this will help set the crown.

Once the angled passes are done, set the rake straight, but still in the "back raking" direction and starting in the middle, make a finish pass.

 

[bellweather]

By "back raking" do you mean with the tines actually pointing opposite the direction I'm traveling, as in rotating the rake 180 degrees? Thanks

 

[bellweather]

Thanks for the reply. I had a feeling gauge wheels might make a difference. I don't have them now, but maybe I should get some. Also thanks Von for the same advice.

 

[CTyler]

I would say yes, I do this with my rear blade for fine smoothing. The blade can't dig in when its turned around it just glides along the top for the most part.

On my drive I've had the best luck using the box blade. I don't get washboards thier more like moguls or big spaced out washbords. Its almost like a mini roller coaster, kinda hard to describe. It happens most from equipment trucks spinning thier tires slightly up the 500'+ semi steep drive. The trick on mine is to cut the top off the first mound to get some material in the box. Then another hieght adjustment on the first dip this gets me on a middle point more/less for the first pass. Depending on how much material is in the box I may adjust up or down very slightly once or twice. You dont want the box empty, I try for about 1/8 to 1/4 full. After a couple passes each way its smoothed out.

Once thats done then the blade works good to move rock one direction or the other. If it windrows flip the blade backwards drop it an go, it takes care of itself. I would assume the rake would do the same thing.

 

[chim]

Some of the regulars have already seen this. It's a couple of steel beams fastened together with 6 pieces of 1/2" allthread. By lengthening/shortening the two lower chains, it will cast the loosened material to the right, left or straight.

My first tractor didn't have a 3PH, and it was pretty unhandy not being able to pick it up. With the boom pole, it is 100% nicer to use. Since our main driveway has been paved, it hasn't seen a lot of use. About the most it gets used anymore is to flatten out the sand volleyball court................chim

 

[WVBill]

Yes, that's what I mean by "backraking". I found that with the rake facing the normal direction it was too "aggressive" and wanted to move the gravel rather than smoothing/spreading it.

I don't have guage wheels for my rake but I wish I did. They would be a big help in reducing the "whoopty bumps".

 

[bellweather]

Thanks WVBill and CTyler...I like your term "whoopty bumps" that about describes the washboard effect I was referring to...not really a washboard but more like regularly spaced mounds. I will try back raking/back blading.