Ramp angle and rear tipping om Maiden Load

[Propjob]

Hi all;
Me again! I have a big Tex trailer 16 ft 70ch with pull out 4 ft ramps. The ramps sit on a welded rail on the back @ the ramp has a lip that holds it from rear motion. Recently had problem with ramp width and have resolved that by cutting a notch in that lip to fit my tractor, thanks to your suggestions. I plan to safety chain the ramps to the rail to prevent flip up. My concern is loading my 2305 with FEL and ballast box about 600 lbs. Tires are turf and are loaded. Trailer will be connected to truck, with brakes on, wooden blocking at trailer rear end, and also tire chocks. Am I missing anything to load safely? Will the incline with the ballast box ( filled with pond stone) cause a rear flip over concern? My other concern is backing off, as the ramps will be more in a blind zone. I'd rather ask the questions now than make a serious error later. Is it safer to load backwards with this particular setup, taking tongue weight as a consideration? I'm almost ready to roll er up!

Thanks JIM

 

[bigdad]

Sounds like you are pretty well prepared. You want another set of eyes watch you load it. At least the first couple of times.

 

[rimshot]

Hi all;
Me again! I have a big Tex trailer 16 ft 70ch with pull out 4 ft ramps. The ramps sit on a welded rail on the back @ the ramp has a lip that holds it from rear motion. Recently had problem with ramp width and have resolved that by cutting a notch in that lip to fit my tractor, thanks to your suggestions. I plan to safety chain the ramps to the rail to prevent flip up. My concern is loading my 2305 with FEL and ballast box about 600 lbs. Tires are turf and are loaded. Trailer will be connected to truck, with brakes on, wooden blocking at trailer rear end, and also tire chocks. Am I missing anything to load safely? Will the incline with the ballast box ( filled with pond stone) cause a rear flip over concern? My other concern is backing off, as the ramps will be more in a blind zone. I'd rather ask the questions now than make a serious error later. Is it safer to load backwards with this particular setup, taking tongue weight as a consideration? I'm almost ready to roll er up!
Thanks JIM

========================

Howdy Propjob,

Your right, it can be a bit scary loading your tractor for the first few times. I went to Walmart and picked up a pair of jack stands (3000 lb. rated each).
They stay right in my junk trunk mounted on the tongue of my 7000 lb dual axle 16' car trailer. I see to it the stands are placed beneath the rear deck frame of trailer to prevent it from rearing up or down as I back on or drive off trailer.

I found that my two ramps stored beneath the back part of trailer needed a chock for the center because I did not like the way they were bowing when I rolled my tractor on or off the trailer. If you need a chock/or a stiff leg place it allowing ramp to flex just a little but not a lot. I made a couple out of 2X6' and carry to have handy when backing on ramp. With my backhoe and FEL the tractor is all of 4000 lbs. Make sure you raise the FEL bucket until it is just right to clear the ramps and trailer decking when you load and unload and. You also need someone to watch to make sure as you go up or down the ramps any rear or front attachments do not bottom out. Wheel chocks you mentioned are a good idea as well as leaving hitch chains attached any time tractor will be loaded unloaded.

It is a good practice to know when the trailer hitch has a few hundred pounds of weight on rear when attached to vehicle. You can back the tractor back and forth on trailer deck to center weight and attain amount of weight to balance on tongue. My tractor with FEL and subframe for backhoe stick out quite far. The first few times, I noticed even when attempting to load on level ground that my ramp angle was just too deep. Instead of having extra iron to stiffen ramps. I made a couple of three inch spacer platforms to raise bottom of ramps. This worked perfectly to decrease angle height and reduce the angle making loading a breeze.

Also, I happen to load by backing the tractor aboard and driving forward off trailer. I don't know of any advantages or disadvantages to doing the opposite.

Good luck .

rimshot

 

[Willl]

Jim, most of your concerns about loading are the reasons I went with a tilt bed.

I'm curious as to why you picked ramps over tilt ?

 

[Propjob]

Thanks for the support and info. Rimshot, how did you make the 3 spacer platform? And Will, I didn't initially want to purchase a trailer but the need arose. Not knowing, I went with the dealers advice. JIM

 

[RollTideRam]

You seem to be new at this and a little worried. You could put your truck in 4wd, chock the rear wheels, put out safety cones and let your wife show you how to do, or just go out and load the tractor. Trust me, it is not a big deal with a small tractor. JC

 

[Propjob]

Jumping from perfectly good planes is no big deal also until your chute gets packed by some complacent person

 

[plowking]

After my latestest loading adventure,I since put planks under bottom of gate to lessen incline,also put two 6X6 blocks under edge of trailer at top of gate. It loads fine with very little squat. I marked the trailer with magic marker and line up rear tires with that mark to be loaded perfect. I have to load in four wheel drive or front tires will push planks out from under gate. plowking

 

[rimshot]

Thanks for the support and info. Rimshot, how did you make the 3 spacer platform? And Will, I didn't initially want to purchase a trailer but the need arose. Not knowing, I went with the dealers advice. JIM

==============================
Propjob,

The three inch platform is not complicated but makes a big difference in the angle for loading. I wish my trailer was right here now and I would run out and take a picture of my rising platforms. I will try to explain pending posting a picture. First I start with a two or three foot length of 2 X 10. Plowking mentioned he has to use 4wd to get his front tires over his ramp lift blocking. It's not a problem for me because I bevel one side at 45 degrees. Then I go down to the other end of the 2X10 and widen that end by spliciing a couple of 2 X 6's right next to the end that the ramps are going to be setting on. So, I place the bottom of each ramp on top of the two layers of 2" thick lumber (two layers of 2 X material actual 1 1/2" X 2 =3". Now, picture a two or three foot section of 2" X 10" laying as a launch pad on ground in line and under ramp. In loading the tractor, I back the tractor rear wheels first on top of the first 2X10" plank on ground and it immediately raises tractor 1 1/2". Remember, at this point the backhoe subframe is very close to contacting the ramps that rise behind it. Backing along the approach, the tractor rear tires starts rising another 1 1/2" as they now rolll over the second layer of 2 X splice. This second layer (since I used scrap lumber is 2 side by side 2 X 6's running at a 90 degree angle to the 2 X 10 and is also the surface the ramp rests on. The back of the tractor and the extending backhoe subframe in particular gets jacked up three inches higher causing it not to intersect with or damage the ramps that are rising as the tractor creeps behind it approaching the ramps.

When you establish you proper position with a particular attachment to get the proper weight distribution and tongue weight, I did mark the spot by puttting an arrow for center of rear tire.


I agree, you can't be too careful. Good luck

rimshot

 

[plowking]

==============================
Propjob,

The three inch platform is not complicated but makes a big difference in the angle for loading. I wish my trailer was right here now and I would run out and take a picture of my rising platforms. I will try to explain pending posting a picture. First I start with a two or three foot length of 2 X 10. Plowking mentioned he has to use 4wd to get his front tires over his ramp lift blocking. It's not a problem for me because I bevel one side at 45 degrees. Then I go down to the other end of the 2X10 and widen that end by spliciing a couple of 2 X 6's right next to the end that the ramps are going to be setting on. So, I place the bottom of each ramp on top of the two layers of 2" thick lumber (two layers of 2 X material actual 1 1/2" X 2 =3". Now, picture a two or three foot section of 2" X 10" laying as a launch pad on ground in line and under ramp. In loading the tractor, I back the tractor rear wheels first on top of the first 2X10" plank on ground and it immediately raises tractor 1 1/2". Remember, at this point the backhoe subframe is very close to contacting the ramps that rise behind it. Backing along the approach, the tractor rear tires starts rising another 1 1/2" as they now rolll over the second layer of 2 X splice. This second layer (since I used scrap lumber is 2 side by side 2 X 6's running at a 90 degree angle to the 2 X 10 and is also the surface the ramp rests on. The back of the tractor and the extending backhoe subframe in particular gets jacked up three inches higher causing it not to intersect with or damage the ramps that are rising as the tractor creeps behind it approaching the ramps.

When you establish you proper position with a particular attachment to get the proper weight distribution and tongue weight, I did mark the spot by puttting an arrow for center of rear tire.


I agree, you can't be too careful. Good luck

rimshot

Nice idea! I will push out my planks on tar,more then on dirt. I should do your suggestion,not much of a carpenter myself. I have a short gate,longer gate would work,but be too heavy to lift. plowking