Ratcheting Cat l top link ?

[fried1765]

Does anyone know where to buy a ratcheting Cat l top link, with the standard ball type ends?
They are manufactured by Sparex, but apparently only sold in England.
I have a Cat ll ratcheting top link, but it is Cat ll, and it has clevis ends.
I am now thinking about cutting the clevis ends off my Cat ll top link , and welding Cat l ball ends on.
I would much rather buy a manufactured Cat l ratcheting top link,..... but....WHERE?

 

[smstonypoint]

It's pricey, but here's a Cat II with ball ends, Ratchet Top Link - TL175. You could use Cat II to I bushings for your application.

Steve

 

[fried1765]

It's pricey, but here's a Cat II with ball ends, Ratchet Top Link - TL175. You could use Cat II to I bushings for your application.

Steve

I saw that before, but as you point out it is Cat ll, and it is also MIGHTY PRICEY!
$124.49
22.75 shipping
Total .. 147.24

I got a Cat ll top link (Chinese junk, with clevis ends) for free from Blaine's Farm & Fleet using a $50 gift cert. from my buying a 60" KK tiller.
I think I will just cut up one of my Cat l top links, and weld those ball ends were the clevis ends currently are.
Should only cost me a few bucks to do that (destroy a $25 Cat l top link).
Then, if I like it, I might buy the Cat ll model from Yesterdays Tractors.
I am still hoping I can find a REAL Cat l ratchet model.

 

[fried1765]

It's pricey, but here's a Cat II with ball ends, Ratchet Top Link - TL175. You could use Cat II to I bushings for your application.

Steve

I saw that before, but as you point out it is Cat ll, and it is also MIGHTY PRICEY!
$124.49
22.75 shipping
Total .. 147.24

I got a Cat ll top link (Chinese junk, with clevis ends) for free from Blaine's Farm & Fleet using a $50 gift cert. from my buying a 60" KK tiller.
I think I will just cut up one of my Cat l top links, and weld those ball ends were the clevis ends currently are.
Should only cost me a few bucks to do that (destroy a $25 Cat l top link).
Then, if I like it, I might buy the Cat ll model from Yesterdays Tractors.
I am still hoping I can find a REAL Cat l ratchet model.

 

[kypilot]

Can you find a ratchet binder that has the same thread size as your cat I and use it?

 

[gwdixon]

I'm with the idea of buying a cheap load binder, cutting off the ends, and welding on CAT 1 balls.

Since you already have the expensive portion, the binder, you should be good to go. It would be not that hard to weld.

Search results for: 'ratchet load binder'

CountyLine Top Link End - For Life Out Here

There is always the option of a hydraulic top link as the best solution. But maybe mortgaging the house is not in the plans.

 

[fried1765]

I'm with the idea of buying a cheap load binder, cutting off the ends, and welding on CAT 1 balls.

Since you already have the expensive portion, the binder, you should be good to go. It would be not that hard to weld.

Search results for: 'ratchet load binder'

CountyLine Top Link End - For Life Out Here

There is always the option of a hydraulic top link as the best solution. But maybe mortgaging the house is not in the plans.

I already have the Chinese made ratcheting Cat ll top link (clevis ends) that I can modify with Cat l ball ends, so buying a ratcheting binder to also modify, would not make sense to me.
I have a good friend who lives in England in the summer, so think I may ask him to bring a Cat l ratcheting toplink (Sparex) back for me.
I don't quite understand why they are not available in the USA.
Wouldn't other people like to have a poor (old) man's easy to use top link, that is much cheaper than a hydraulic one?

 

[jmc]

Have you seen the Hydraulink? No external plumbing. The developer spent quite a bit of time here on TBN promoting it.

HydrauLink™ - A self-contained hydraulic top link

 

[fried1765]

Have you seen the Hydraulink? No external plumbing. The developer spent quite a bit of time here on TBN promoting it.

HydrauLink™ - A self-contained hydraulic top link

I am aware of the Hydraulink, but I want a top link where I can easily manually adjust the length.
As I understand it, the Hydraulink is really only a sort of shock absorber top link.

 

[Snowback]

I am aware of the Hydraulink, but I want a top link where I can easily manually adjust the length.
As I understand it, the Hydraulink is really only a sort of shock absorber top link.

You've likely already sourced your new top link, but if not please start watching this video at 28 seconds. You might be surprised at how easy it is to adjust length manually on the hyrdaulink. This looks to be an incredibly effective "quick adjust" top link for those of us without rear remotes, and who might need some shock absorption as well. I just need to find a place that sells them for less than $250! Anyone have a good source?

On a different thread I realized this might be the ticket for using a new design of stump grinder that sits perpendicular to the tractor and you simply pull it across stumps. Vibration could be dampened by this.

 

[CADplans]

I got a welded 2X8 cylinder, and a weld on top link end,,,and an old steel top link,,,
It looks like with a little cuttin' and weldin',,,I could build the Hydraulink?

Is there any magic in that valve?

 

[the old grind]

I'm sure you'd want plumbed lines to be conservatively rated (surges ... no 'black iron', please) but the valve shouldn't need to be anything but pressure rated (not to blow out) and easily anchored to the cylinder.

IMO the only 'magic' to such store bought links is building them efficiently enough to sustain a profit.
'Parts is parts' but we can spread out the time/mat'l investment, so why not DIY?. ("I dare ya!" )

btw, my hesitation with a cyl that large is that there must be some airspace to account for rod displacement, no way around that. Could too much 'cushion' or unwelcome sag result from too much of it? (... considering a 2" cylinders's typical rod diameter/volume?)

 

[CADplans]

btw, my hesitation with a cyl that large is that there must be some airspace to account for rod displacement, no way around that. Could too much 'cushion' or unwelcome sag result from too much of it? (... considering a 2" cylinders's typical rod diameter/volume?)

I have the cylinder in a 2 1/2" bore also,, the larger bore might balance better with the rod being less of a factor?
The lower one is a 2 1/2" X 8",,,

I have too much "stuff" in the shed!! :laughing:

 

[the old grind]

With a similar rod displacement, the larger piston would act proportionally on a similar air volume to reduce progressivity when compressed equally so, less 'cush' o'all. (good call :thumbsup btw, it's not just a comparison of diameters if stroke length isn't equal, either 'total' or as applied.

To make it simplest, I'd also want the cyl with the best-matched range of length needed .

btw, Are those 1" eyes? (Cat-2) ... and will the 2 1/2" cyl extend far enough for you? (looks a tad short)

What else ya got? :laughing: ... IMO you could nail this.

Are we helping the OP yet?? Sorry.

 

[CADplans]

btw, Are those 1" eyes? (Cat-2) ... and will the 2 1/2" cyl extend far enough for you? (looks a tad short)

What else ya got? :laughing: ... IMO you could nail this.

Are we helping the OP yet?? Sorry.

I would cut both ends off,, and add back as necessary,,, Where is the tape measure!!??

"Are we helping the OP yet?? Sorry. "

We are helping to drive him crazy!! :confused2:

:laughing:

 

[CADplans]

Does anyone know where to buy a ratcheting Cat l top link,

I have a Cat ll ratcheting top link, but it is Cat ll, and it has clevis ends.
I am now thinking about cutting the clevis ends off my Cat ll top link , and welding Cat l ball ends on.
I would much rather buy a manufactured Cat l ratcheting top link,..... but....WHERE?

Actually, I had one of those ratcheting devices with a clevis at each end.
it is not a CAT II top link, it is a hydraulic cylinder replacement.

The lengths it can adjust to duplicates the lengths of a top link, about 20 to 28 inches.

I replaced the ratchet with this 3 position, pin adjustable, cylinder replacement.

The black ratchet took so much effort to change the angle of the rake,,, I never re-angled the rake!!

I might still have that black ratchet,,,somewhere,,,:confused2: