Re-doing the JD forward lights on my 3520

   / Re-doing the JD forward lights on my 3520 #1  

jmt1271

Platinum Member
Joined
Aug 12, 2005
Messages
585
Location
MO
Tractor
Kubota L2501
BloomingtonMikes light project on his JD inspired me. Great job Mike!

I added the JD forward lighting kit to my 3520. I dont like it at all. The location sucks, blinds me and attracts bugs to my face. Theres not much I can do about the location, short of finding a mount location toward the front of the tractor. But the other problem I CAN fix. I dont like the fact that my lights are controlled by the headlight switch. I want independent control. Like the JD switches in the console that BloomingtonMike used. I can probably figure it out well enough to do it, but why not use the resources I have. Like TBN.

What would be necessary to switch from the main switch to console mounted Thanks alot.
 
   / Re-doing the JD forward lights on my 3520 #2  
I agree about the 'standard' location. I put lights on the brush guards on my 2305 and I do get blinded by them. The light pretty good but when I go to back up bam, I get blinded.

I just had lights put on my 3320 and they mounted them on the front top of the
canopy and it's great. Pretty much the same position as the cab tractors. No blinding, plenty of light and it lights the FEL all the way up to the highest position with no problem.

I have a different canopy on my 2305 now and I'm going to figure out a way to move those lights also.
 
   / Re-doing the JD forward lights on my 3520 #3  
jmt1271 said:
BloomingtonMikes light project on his JD inspired me. Great job Mike!

What would be necessary to switch from the main switch to console mounted Thanks alot.


This would be very easy to do really if you do not want a relay installed and you only have one set of lights installed.

First off to take care of your blinding issue, mount the lights on the rear of the bracket. The bracket is currently only drilled for top mount - so flip it over. It works, I tried it already. Spin the lights around, flip the bracket, and reinstall the bolts. Pretty simple.


The wiring is just as easy really. What we will do is connect it up so that the lights on the tractor do have to be on, but after that you can then switch the lights. Go to home depot and buy a 6' section of 4 conductor 14ga wire - price is $1.20 a foot or so. Also order out two JD switches = if you want the kind I installed they are Part number MIA10204 - price is about $14.50-$16.50 each depending on the JD dealer markup. You will also need 4 female spade connectors 14ga-16ga (blue color - get the water proof ones and get a package of the male and female bullet/barrell shaped wire connectors also blue in color (16ga-14ga).

First make sure the lights are off. If you want to be safer diconnect the negative terminal on the battery. Take of the right side panel - two 10mm bolts in the rear and two phillips screws in the front - all under the fender. You will need to cut out the spots in the front for the two switches - I used a dremel and a straight cutting bit (be careful and go slow). I disconnected my existing switches - make notes of what wire colors go where - before cutting. After the holes are cut Install the new switches and thread that 4 conductor wire though the back of the inside of the fender following the existing wiring. Choose a pair of the new wires for each switch - again taking notes. Install the female spade connectors on the wire and plug them into the new switches - make sure the switches are off at this point. Also connect up the existing wiring - use your notes.

At the rear of the tractor route that threaded wire so that it is behind the rear seat. Following the wires that come from the ROPS, you will see that a pair of the wires hook into a purple and black connector on each die of the tractor. We wi9ll only be switching the positive purple wire. Disconnect the front light positive wire from the purple connector. Install a female and male bullet connector to each pair of wires from the switches - use your notes. Because it is all positive wires it does not matter which wire color gets whcih gender connector - but keep the colors mathed to the switc - using your notesh. Now connect the switches in series to that positive connectors per light and also back into the tractor wiring. All you have done is given a way to open and close the positive circuit per light. You may need to expand the male bullet connector to get it to fit solidly (I used an awl) but it will work. Electrical tape your work when done.

Reconnect the battery if needed. Turn on your lights and test out the function of your new switches. As long as they work you can then reinstall the panel screws and bolts and tidy up the wiring. Use loom on the bullet conectors to keep the connections away from the elements.
 
   / Re-doing the JD forward lights on my 3520 #4  
I to do not like the lights where the are mounted on my JD 3120 so I ordered and installed 3 work lights on the top of my ROPS. I already drilled 3 holes for my mount plate for my beacon light and am going to wire it up tonight.The 3 lights will cover a wider area then the forwarding lights.I will have a total 5 forwording lights and the head lights and 2 rear work lights and a beacon light.
matthew3120
 
   / Re-doing the JD forward lights on my 3520 #5  
I am also adding lights to my canopy. This last weekend I was working at night and would have to cover over the work light, with my hand, when I wanted to backup.

As soon as I get the forward canopy lights mounted I am going to just turn the JD forward light around and point them backwards. I am going to connect them to a separate switched circuit. The circuit that currently powers them will power the forward canopy lights instead.
 

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