Reader's Digest - Truck Sizing

[SLOBuds]

Well, I know this is here somewhere but I just can't find the right search argument. So here it goes. Sorry.

I basically just want to size a truck to my new tractor. Most likely this is something like 'add weight of all equipment - tractor, implements and trailer, tack on margin of safety, then THAT number has to be within tolerances of the trucks xyz specification.'

What am I supposed to add together?
What is the name of the specification/s I need to look at with the truck?
What other things am I supposed to think about in terms of the truck's capability?

I don't really want a specific truck recommendation. But what I have is a Kubota L35 (approx 6000 lbs itself), then I would want to also carry my box blade and brush hog. Maybe another 2k there.

Thanks.

 

[Egon]

Figure out the gross weight you will be trailering and then check for trucks that can do it!

 

[IXLR8]

Well, you have 6K lbs in tractor, 2K lbs in implements, figure another 2K lbs for trailer itself, and another misc 0.5Klbs for tie-downs and misc stuff. So you are looking at being able to tow 10,500 lbs, my guess is this puts you in the 3/4-1 ton range. This is the 2500/3500 GM/Chrysler range and 250/350 Ford range. Properly outfitted the Toyota Tundra is rated to do this, but it is the upper end of it's load range.

 

[CinderSchnauzer]

Just happen to have a 2008 GMC brochure here and here is a link to a site that makes trailers, where you can see some specs.

Utility Trailer Sales | Manufacturer of Utility Trailers

If your tractor + other load is approx 8,000 lbs - looks like you would be right on the line for a 5 Ton rated trailer and maybe have to go with 7 ton rating to be on the safe side. In any event assuming 8,000 load + at least 2,000 for the trailer = 10,000 lbs you would be right at the margin for a Crew Cab 1500 Series with 6.0L 367 HP. (Max rating 10,500 lbs)

The 2500 Series is rated 12,500 - 15,800 lbs depending on configuration.

The 1500 Series rating is based on a ball hitch and the 2500 Series based on 5th Wheel / Gooseneck.

Hope this helps.

 

[Bird]

The basic, simple things to look for are the:

1. GVWR - Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. That will tell you the maximum weight of the truck, fully loaded, passengers, and all.

2. Curb Weight. That will tell you what the empty truck weighs with fuel, oil, and coolant. Subtract that from the GVW to determine how much weight you can haul, including driver and passengers.

3. GCWR - Gross Combined Weight Rating. That tells you the maximum weight of the truck, its load, and any trailer of other vehicle being towed by the truck.

You can also look at the manufacturer's trailer towing guide that will show maximum recommended trailer weights for different models of truck and different drive trains; i.e., engine, transmission, differential gear ratios, etc., along with any special equipment required for those trailer weights, such as auxilliary transmission coolers, brake controllers, and weight distributing hitches.

The maximum trailer weights will probably be different for conventional, or bumper pull, trailers vs. gooseneck or fifth-wheel trailers.

You will also find, in addition to the trailer weights, the maximum tongue weight allowed for different hitches.

Have fun truck shopping.

 

[LoneCowboy]

Any 3/4 ton (chevy, dodge, ford) will do what you want it to do with plenty of room left over.

 

[patrick_g]

Martin, You need a class V receiver hitch (probably stouter than and maybe much stouter than OEM) if you want a "standard" bumper pull style hitch arrangement. These are available for up to about 12,000 lbs or so trailer weight and 1200 lbs tongue weight. With equalizing hitch arrangement the class V will take you up to 14-14,500 lbs trailer weight.

Class V is available for 2 1/2 inch drawbar and I believe in standard 2 inch too. If you get a 2 1/2 inch you can put an adapter in it which is just a piece of square steel tubing that is 2 1/2 on the outside and 2 on the inside and use all standard 2 inch drawbars.

Drawbars in 2 inch size that are rated for 15,000 lbs are available without much searching if you look to professional sources and not Wal*Mart. Sure they cost more but will not be a point of failure. Likewise you can get a 2 5/16 inch ball rated for 30,000 lbs and it will not be a source of concern. I bought both from a trailer sales place in a town of only 400 population. You DO NOT WANT a ball smaller than 2 5/16 so be sure the trailer has a 2 5/16 coupler. Bulldog type are superior to a lot of the other designs. They are very stout, easy to use, and last a long time.

You want electric brakes on all wheels of the trailer not just on one axle. You want a break away switch system and battery. Double check to see that the vehicle supplies a pin on the trailer socket that is the "charge line" for the breakaway battery and that the mating position on the trailer's plug is wired to the breakaway battery. It wouldn't be the first time one or the other was not done correctly or the mating connections were on different pins and so the battery did not get charged.

If the tow vehicle does not come equipped with an OEM brake controller built in then check to see if it is prewired for a controller. Don't skimp on a controller. The savings between a PepBoys/Wallmart cheap Chinese controller and a really good controller is not enough to warrant taking a chance with substandard equipment that has to help you stop a heavy load.

Tekonsha, Hayes, or Tap are good brands. I personally prefer Tekonsha and have excellent service going on 12 years with one on my 1997 one ton dually diesel Dodge/Cumins. I bought on the recommendation of a friend with mucho experience and have never regretteed it. My 2008 F-250 PS Diesel came with a built in controller which is very easy to use and has worked well. Not all controllers are the same. There is more than one design philosophy and various assumptions and shortcuts so do yourself a favor and get a good recognized brand. I recommend NOT to buy the cheapest of anyones controllers.

So often guys are interested in how much of a load they can carry with a trailer but it is also very important to be able to safely stop that load, especially when some airhead cuts in front of you and hits the brakes.

Pat

 

[AndyinIowa]

There's a lot of missing information in the OP for making a recommendation:

1. Estimated annual miles of towing
2. Budget constraints?
3. Primary purpose of truck (primary driver, secondary driver, towing only)
4. For business or personal?
5. Trailer purchased already?


I've seen people successfully pull this tractor with everything from an F-150 to an F-450. The above factors strongly affect my recommendation...

IowaAndy

 

[RalphVa]

If you only pull the tractor with the truck only a few times/year, consider renting a Uhaul, Penske, etc. truck for those times. Even a little 10 footer truck will tow your tractor and trailer. You can also rent those $19.95/day trucks at Lowes (probably Home Depot, too).

Ralph

 

[SLOBuds]

If you only pull the tractor with the truck only a few times/year, consider renting a Uhaul, Penske, etc. truck for those times. Even a little 10 footer truck will tow your tractor and trailer. You can also rent those $19.95/day trucks at Lowes (probably Home Depot, too).

Ralph

I like that idea Ralph, though $20 per day probably isn't likely where I live. I only need to haul a few times each year for maintenance and such. At least for now. Later might be different.

Still fun shopping for trucks!

I'd like to see a F150 hauling all of that weight! Down the driveway??? Maybe.