Grading Rear drag blade: offset vs sliding, 5' vs 6'

alia176 · Oct 23, 2015

Folks,

I apologize if this topic has been covered before but a cursory search revealed tons of threads that didn't really give me the info I need. My tractor is 5' wide at the rear tire and the conventional wisdom here dictates the use of a 6' rear blade. However, if I purchase an offset or a sliding blade, would a 5' blade suffice? Meaning, when the blade is angled, I can either slide or offset the blade and still be able to grade beyond the rear tire. Is this logical?

Another point that I'm considering is that a 5' rear blade will allow the use of a 6' wide trailer if needed.

Next question is what works better and/or lasts longer. Pros and cons of a sliding blade or an offset blade.
Sliding blade:https://howseimplement.com/product-...s-scrapers/6-economy-slider-grader-blade.html
Offset blade: https://howseimplement.com/product-...crapers/5-heavy-duty-offset-grader-blade.html

My uses: snow drag, gravel road maintenance with a crown, usual dirt moving.

I do have a 5' box blade with rippers at my disposal.

Thanks for your input!

nybirdman · Oct 23, 2015

The off set blade is a lot heavier duty and would be my choice.It's nice to be able to off-set and tilt the blade.
For snow removal you want a six footer.

bcp · Oct 23, 2015

If you offset a narrow blade, it will leave a pile of material between your wheel tracks. That may or may not be OK.

Bruce

rrrkkk · Oct 23, 2015

I would go with at least a 7 foot. any concrete you will need a rubber edge to protect it.

MtnViewRanch · Oct 23, 2015

A 6' Blade at a 35* angle only cuts about a 58" wide path, at 45* about 50".

jenkinsph · Oct 24, 2015

On a 5' wide tractor a 7' rear blade is a good fit in most cases. If you swivel the blade you can load it on a 6' wide trailer.

lej · Oct 24, 2015

I agree with the others, atleast a 6ft. blade. I use mine mostly for snow. If you use the box blade on your drive you won't have a crown. I work a quarter mile drive and the box blade keeps it smooth as a baby's hind end.

MtnViewRanch · Oct 24, 2015

I hate to harp on this, but if you want your rear blade to "actually" work, you need something that weighs more than a few hundred lbs. This or something equivalent is about as light as I would go and still expect it to work in most conditions.

Just my :2cents:

bcp · Oct 24, 2015

Those are 83 to 99 pounds per foot.

I've often heard that dirt cutting implements start getting serious in the vicinity of 100 pounds per foot, so that fits.

Bruce

paulfun9 · Oct 24, 2015

alia176 said:
Folks,

I apologize if this topic has been covered before but a cursory search revealed tons of threads that didn't really give me the info I need. My tractor is 5' wide at the rear tire and the conventional wisdom here dictates the use of a 6' rear blade. However, if I purchase an offset or a sliding blade, would a 5' blade suffice? Meaning, when the blade is angled, I can either slide or offset the blade and still be able to grade beyond the rear tire. Is this logical?

Another point that I'm considering is that a 5' rear blade will allow the use of a 6' wide trailer if needed.

Next question is what works better and/or lasts longer. Pros and cons of a sliding blade or an offset blade.
Sliding blade:https://howseimplement.com/product-...s-scrapers/6-economy-slider-grader-blade.html
Offset blade: https://howseimplement.com/product-...crapers/5-heavy-duty-offset-grader-blade.html

My uses: snow drag, gravel road maintenance with a crown, usual dirt moving.

I do have a 5' box blade with rippers at my disposal.

Thanks for your input!

I would skip both and look for something that is more heavy duty, has more weight and the cradle type pins A heavy blade always works better for me and I doubt you can find a useable blade new for under a thousand dollars as a decent med duty will be in the neighborhood of 1300 to 1500 at best. Heavy duty will be over 2000 just about any day of the week unless your buying Used.