Rear hydraulic remote?

[MrZukerman]

I have a Kubota L3410 and would like to put a rear remote on it. The dealer is asking 1000 dollars for one factory bolt on. I am thinking of using a after market valve for about a third of the cost. I also have been thinking of just using a electric diverter valve so I have less hoses and mounting issues to deal with. My only question is a electric diverter value solenoid made for long term use , I know most people use a momentary switch to activate the valve only while it is in use. I would like to be able to flip a switch and have the valve work for a couple of hours at a time.

 

[Soundguy]

When you do your plumbing.. make sure you don't get the pump in a dead head situation.. IE.. if it wants an open center system.. make sure your diverter and spool setup will provide that when the working port is not being used.

Soundguy

 

[MadReferee]

I suppose you want the remote to be in the rear. If so then using a diverter would not be the right way to go since you would have to use one of the loader functions to divert. This means running hoses from the loader to the diverter and then to the remote connection at the rear.

As for the duty cycle on the diverter, I am not sure you could find one that would met your requirements for a reasonable price. The diverters normally used for front grapples run close to $200 which is about the same price as a spool valve assembly. If you choose to go this route I would definitely go spec shopping before buying anything.

For your situation I would recommend a good 2 or 3 spool valve like the Prince SV. You can set yourself up for around $500. Your biggest issue will be mounting the valve on the fender or ROPS. Plenty of people have installed non-Kubots valves with no problems.

 

[rambler]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I would like to be able to flip a switch and have the valve work for a couple of hours at a time.
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For _that_ type of use, get the cheaper manual diverter. Pull a knob & it switches to the other set of remotes - all mechanical, no wiring. Saw a pair on the shelf at TSC last week....

--->Paul

 

[MadReferee]

Yes, a manual selector valve. You still have the issues of hoses but this would work and cleaply too. Just remember that, depending on what you will be doing, you need a selector that will work with a double acting cylinder (2 ins and 4 outs) or you can get 2 cheap single acting cylinder selectors one for each hose. Surplus Center has the single acting ones for around $40 each so you will need 2.

Just another thought, assuming you are diverting off one of the loader functions you will still have to manually keep the loader control valve open. This may not be an ideal condition.

If you want to divert the main flow then your diverted circuit must have a path for the flow to continuously return to tank and the selector cannot be switched while the engine is running or the pump will self destruct.

My feeling is that in the long run your best bet is to just add an aux valve with power beyond. The Prince SV can be configured with a motor spool that can be detented to be always in the open position. Your chances of screwing something up are really minimized with this configuration.

 

[MrZukerman]

Thanks for the info, the more I've been looking the more I think I will go with a manual diverter valve, like the one from surplus center. I think this is the one that will work, I'm going to use the loaders up and down circuit. I'm only needing it to work one cylinder on a small disc and drag type box blade.

This one would be OK ?

http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2006041016561101&item=9-4128&catname=hydraulic

 

[MadReferee]

Assuming that valve is a simple 2 position A/B select, then it will work fine.