Rear lights on Boomer

[Anonymous Poster]

I know this subject has been covered many times, but I thought I would post pictures of the lights that I added to my TC29D. First off, I would like to thank everyone for all of the great ideas. I used many of them and a few of my own. The first picture shows the completed project minus the black paint. I used a piece of 1 x 1 aluminum tube, a couple of 2 x 3 square clamps, and 3 lights purchased from a local farm supply store. Total cost including wiring and switches - $40.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Another view

 

[thcri]

Stumpman,

Did you wire right into the harness by the amber lights? I have purchased my lights I am just waiting for the magnets. I want to be able to turn the lights forward or backward.

murph

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Another view showing switch location. I tapped into the existing wire harness and connected it to two new switches. I can turn the front and the rear facing lights on independently, and they turn off when the tractor is shut off.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Murph,
You snuck in before I got the last photo posted. Does it show enough detail? I used the existing pigtail (looks like a 2-way flat trailer connector) that was under the seat.

 

[thcri]

I wondered if that flat connector was in the switch or if it was full time power. You answered my question. I can't wait to get my magnets so I can get mine mounted. I will post pictures of mine when done.


Thanks much
murph

 

[TC18guy]

Well done. I've wanted to do something like this for my TC18. I may "borrow" some of your ideas. Is the connector you tapped into for your headlights? Do they have to be on to work your new lights?

 

[Mark_in_NH]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Is the connector you tapped into for your headlights? Do they have to be on to work your new lights? )</font>

The connecter that stumpman plugged into is the factory plug designed for the New Holland work light. The NH worklight plugs right into it, (I think) and the light has it's own switch. This wire is hot only when the key is ON. Which would be just fine for 99.9% of all applications. I am unsure what amperage it is fused at.
I was going to buy one of these work lights until I found out that the light was $32 (which was acceptable) But the necessary bracket to mount it is another $48, /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif which is unacceptable.
I believe that this is the wire I will use to power some additional lighting. But I do need to find out what it is fused at.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

The connector in question is fused at 15 amps. It is on the circuit with the cruise control. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
I like the way you mounted your switches stumpman. Nice job.

 

[tc35dforme]

Mark, It looks like that plug is slaved off of the hazard / turn circuit. That circuit uses a 10 amp fuse. Look at your owners manual wiring diagrams Frame 3. You'll see the fuse F.3 with a wire down to a square label FR.3 'L'. Now go to the next page Frame 4. At the upper right you'll see the same symbol FR.3 'L' with a wire dropping down to the light plug ( E14 ). The wire that runs off the page is the ground.

I'd guess that you'd be safe adding a couple of 35 watt lamps, but I'd stop short of adding much more.

I wired in a relay, a couple of new switches, and took a fused power feed right off of the main bus bar at the fuse panel. It works great. I even used the OEM slots just above the steering column and bought a pair of OEM ligth switches from NH. It had to look pretty as well as work. I know ... I know ...its an illness !!