rear main seal and input seal

   / rear main seal and input seal #1  

ama190

New member
Joined
Oct 3, 2015
Messages
13
Location
Janesville,Iowa
Tractor
Ford 3000
does the rear main seal require specialty tool to install. anybody done it without the tool? Also is there only 1 input seal for transmission? I am not seeing any additional on the drawings but mose people reference changing inputs seals. I am waiting on some parts thinking it would be good time for rear main and input seal
 
   / rear main seal and input seal #2  
is this on your 3000?

rear main .. if a 2 peiece seal, and you are not taking the crank out, you can use a sneaky pete to handle the top with a bit of cursing and struggeling.

trnas input shaft.. keep in mind there are different input shafts for (nonlive)single stick vs (live)twin stick trannies. The live twin stick trannies have an input shaft with a shaft and hollow shaft. The non live single stick just have the shaft.. thus 1 seal.
 
   / rear main seal and input seal
  • Thread Starter
#3  
ooops it is for my 3000. looks to be a one piece job. there is a video of a person using a pilot hole and a wood screw to remove it. Checking with autoparts store to see if they have a crankshaft seal installer. The manual calls out a specfic depth to install so I'm reluctant to tap it in with a punch. What is a sneaky pete?

trans input shaft : I have a two stick live pto. I can see the smaller seal on the input shaft inside the hollow shaft but no others on the drawing I have . thanks for your responses .
 
   / rear main seal and input seal #4  
the exploded diagram and parts list I pulled up from the NH parts site shows both seals.

yeah you can screw a self tapper or woot screw into the seal and then snatch it out..

a sneaky pete is a 'fishing tool'.
 
   / rear main seal and input seal
  • Thread Starter
#5  
I think I see the seals as item 9 and 10 in the drawings you posted to my initial thread. thanks again. Oh I just picked up my new double clutch. Unfortunately it was a 1.75" step spec instead of the 1.71" I was expecting. They said I either need to machine flywheel or uses shims(not recommended by others Ive talked with). old and new clutches seem the same so flywheel spec must be met through clutch adjustments. The flywheel really has no wear so I am trying to figure out a way around shims. The throwout bearing is a bit different too. Has a notch in the inner race. Original was completely sealed.
 

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