Rear remote hose routing for front plow

[jeffmac]

Hey all,

I bought a front snowplow for my DK40se, now I need to plumb it.
Could anyone give me some advice how they have done it on their tractor?

Any suggestions regarding adding some hydraulic lines from the back would be welcome............+5 for pictures and or sketches::thumbsup:

Thanks,
Jeff

 

[MichiganIron]

We have a Front Plug Kit for the DKSE Tractors. You can find it on our website @www.michironandequip.com

 

[grsthegreat]

I had my dealer route 2 hoses back to my already existing rear remotes. There is a front mount set of quick connects, and another set where the loader arms attach to the tractor so i can easily remove the loader. I got this at the same time i purchased the tractor, so was pretty cheap...about $400.00 installed.

Buying it separately may be more ??? You can easily do it yourself though. I also made a removable extension arm for the rear remote control handle to have it fall right along side my loader mounted snowblower control.

He simply routed the set of hoses under the rear of the tractor and up the right side of the loader arms, and to a connecting point on the front.
The picture also shows a loop hose that i highly recommend for use when nothing is attached to the rear remotes so you don't accidentally deadhead the hydraulic pump when nothing is attached. The other set of hoses go under the tractor to the front loader. I personally use the front set of hoses on my non-detente set of controls and the loop is on the standard detente set of controls (for post hole digger, etc)


If you need different views, i can take some more pics for you?? just ask

greg

 

[IslandTractor]

Unless you intend to remove the FEL more than once a year, I would not bother with the extra set of quick connectors on the FEL post. Just a single full length set of hoses from rear remote to the front FEL torque tube. To do it cheaply just use zipties to hold the hoses up against the underside of the operator station then follow the FEL post on either side. Materials should cost less than $100 even from a local hydraulic shop and close to $60 or so via Internet. Just use a garden hose to measure the correct length before ordering. A little extra is easy to loop out of the way and helps maintain gentle changes of direction.

 

[grsthegreat]

Well i originally installed mine as a single run. Then i decided to remove the loader to make the 50 hour easier.....those hoses were a pain in the butt to reroute. Then later on i had to remove the loader to harrow 10 acre horse field....same thing. So i cut the hoses and added the quick connects. AHHH much better.

But i agree, if your never going to remove it, not worth the extra cost of the QA couplers

 

[VictorW]

The setup on my CK30hst is almost a copy of grsthegreat. The hoses start from the rear remotes, go down and then forward under the right floor board. A metal mount is added to the original place where the fel QDs are. The hoses come up to the mount where I have QDs for when I take the fel off. The hoses continue from those QDs and run along the right fel arm to another metal mount connected to the fels front cross brace. Here are the QDs that anything hydraulically controlled can be connected to. For the extra cost of another set of QDs and having two sets of hoses over one set of hoses for the whole length just made better sense for me. My fel doesn't come off that often but it sure makes it easy and fast. I purchased the nylon hose covering to keep the hoses from getting damaged and just used plastic wire ties to secure the hoses under the tractor at various points.

For a front snow plow, using the rear remote controls works well. You won't be doing constant changing/controling. If I was going to use a grapple, as some of the guys do, you are working the grapple more than a plow and I would opt to having the control right on the fel/bucket control. Unfortunately, that type of setup is more costly but would be worth it for optimum grapple arm/curl/fel lift control.

 

[grsthegreat]

Actually, with the DK series, about $6.00 in steel tube and steel rod creates a lengthened shift lever that brings the rear remote control right up along side the joystick. It works way slick, and when i shift my plow right or left, i cant accidentally rotate or lift/drop my plow blade as its independent of that control. Plus it just slips on and off so you can lose it if your not using a rear remote.

I use this with the remote that DOESN'T have the detente built in.

The big grey control with the 4 buttons is the control for my snowblower chute rotation and deflector.It bolts on the joystick for winter only.

So far Ive used it 3 times...and i am VERY happy with it.

 

[seacap04]

I am going to do the same as grsthegreat and MichiganIron with the exception I plan on teeing into rear remotes. I would buy MichiganIron kit except I operate commercial work boats and have everything but QD's and front mounting bracket. It will take me an hour or two to fab just front bracket.

 

[grsthegreat]

I am going to do the same as grsthegreat and MichiganIron with the exception I plan on teeing into rear remotes. I would buy MichiganIron kit except I operate commercial work boats and have everything but QD's and front mounting bracket. It will take me an hour or two to fab just front bracket.

the front bracket would be a real easy build. I like MichiganIron's prices also..... but i finageled my dealer into installing mine during purchase. My back was so messed up back then, i couldnt think of climbing under my tractor then. Lots better now.

 

[seacap04]

MichiganIron's setup is a even better deal than I thought. I just spent $240 at a Parker store for QD's, a few fittings, 10' 1/4" hose and hose ends. I already had the 1/2 hose and ends. I ship out Wed for a couple of weeks so had to get this together today. I'll start a new post w/pics tomorrow in daylight. If I had had the time I would have ordered MichiganIron's setup.