rear remotes

[Cougsfan]

In another thread I was commenting on how poorly my rear remotes worked. I have a hydraulic top link and because of the linkage it is hard to fine adjust the top link's ram without careful concentration. It is hard to push and hard to find the center position. Unless one is very careful they will over travel the lever to the other direction.

There are two outputs on the rear remote. One output is controlled with a red handle and has red dirt plugs for the quick disconnects. The other has a yellow handle and plugs. The red control has a float position, the yellow one doesn't. I would think that red one with the float position would be the right one for a top link, so that's the one I have been using. I can visualize utilizing the float on a top link, in fact I have a few times. But I can't see the need for floating a side link (if I had one) (which I really wish I did have one).

Today for the heck of it, I changed the top link to run off the yellow handled control. Wow! What a difference! The yellow one works exactly like it should. It is heavily spring loaded to the center and is easy to fine tune the position of the top link. I wish I had figured that out a couple of years ago:duh:. Both the red and the yellow controls are cable operated. But the mechanical linkage after the cable is quite different between the two. Don't know why they made them so different. Must be they couldn't figure out a way to spring center the red one as easily because of the float position.

Anyhow, this is good information for anyone who uses rear remotes on a 4720ch and possibly other models to know.

 

[LouNY]

I've got 3 rear remotes and my center one has detents on both ends, but none of mine have a float position.
I use the detent one when I am using a single action cylinder to get it to float a bit till it hopefully gets as low as it needs to go.
Every once in a while I leave it detented which also dead heads it for too long and I have gotten a couple of errors codes on the dash when that happened.

 

[Threepoint]

In another thread I was commenting on how poorly my rear remotes worked. I have a hydraulic top link and because of the linkage it is hard to fine adjust the top link's ram without careful concentration. It is hard to push and hard to find the center position. Unless one is very careful they will over travel the lever to the other direction.

There are two outputs on the rear remote. One output is controlled with a red handle and has red dirt plugs for the quick disconnects. The other has a yellow handle and plugs. The red control has a float position, the yellow one doesn't. I would think that red one with the float position would be the right one for a top link, so that's the one I have been using. I can visualize utilizing the float on a top link, in fact I have a few times. But I can't see the need for floating a side link (if I had one) (which I really wish I did have one).

Today for the heck of it, I changed the top link to run off the yellow handled control. Wow! What a difference! The yellow one works exactly like it should. It is heavily spring loaded to the center and is easy to fine tune the position of the top link. I wish I had figured that out a couple of years ago:duh:. Both the red and the yellow controls are cable operated. But the mechanical linkage after the cable is quite different between the two. Don't know why they made them so different. Must be they couldn't figure out a way to spring center the red one as easily because of the float position.

Anyhow, this is good information for anyone who uses rear remotes on a 4720ch and possibly other models to know.

I'm not familiar with your tractor, so these comments may not be applicable, but a couple of things come to mind. It sounds like you have too much hydraulic flow to your top 'n tilt cylinders to allow easy fine tuning. Very common, and easily addressed by adding an inexpensive "flow restrictor adaptor" fitting (about $6) between each of your male quick connect fittings and the threaded end of each cylinder hose. If your hoses have 1/2" NPT ends, these from TSC (Sku. No. 1256783) are excellent: CountyLine 1/2 in. Male Pipe x 1/2 in. Female Pipe Swivel Restricted Orifice, 8MP-8FPXR-TSC at Tractor Supply Co.

They're also available in 3/8" NPT. You can actually get away with just one adaptor for each cylinder, so long as you put it on the rod-end hose, rather than the cylinder-end hose, to minimize the chance of creating a small amount of vacuum in the cylinder due to slight disequilibrium in fluid flow. Reportedly, the vacuum may create a slight "spongy" feel when making adjustments with the implement in the air.

Secondly, are you sure that the detent position on your remote valve is a float position? As distinguished from a detent position intended for use with implements/attachments requiring continuous hydraulic flow, like a log splitter?

 

[BrkMstr]

On most compact units - One should be a detent - it's used for constant flow - back hoe etc - the other is a center valve it will return to center - using the detent for a center link can overheat the valve, as pressure will remain trying to push when fully extended - as flow is constant - they should be easy to distinguish as one will return to center one will not - they do not normally have to be charged to do it -

 

[K5lwq]

Cougs,
Glad to here you found a way that works for you!! :thumbsup:

 

[Cougsfan]

To your point, Threepoint, I did install flow restrictors when I installed the top link ram. Because I had so much trouble I went back and installed a even more restictive restrictor to hopefully help. It didn't help. It really moves slow now, too slow if anything because you have to watch it a while to insure it isn't indeed moving forward or backwards.

I am quite sure the red control is indeed has a float position based on the icons. The red control lever has positions with 4 icons; forward (<), neutral (-), back (>), and behind that a float position which is depicted as a ram with arrows going both directions. It does indeed float in that position. In addition, when the red control is not fully centered (inadvertently left partially in the (<) or (>) position, which is easy to do), the ram does fully extend or retract, and the three point looses pressure and drops. It does return to center with the tractor off, but not when it is running. Maybe just I don't understand what Branson had in mind (???). It doesn't discuss it in the operators manual. A backhoe would be pretty hard to put on my cabbed tractor, but maybe that red lever is intended for a backhoe(?)