Remote hydraulic valve - ridiculously chintzy return pipe

   / Remote hydraulic valve - ridiculously chintzy return pipe #1  

jcaron2

Silver Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2007
Messages
220
Location
Madison, NC
Tractor
Kubota MX-5000
I ordered and installed a Kubota's remote hydraulic kit for my MX-5000 a while back. Everything is built very well and is very sturdy on it except for the return pipe. Granted, the oil returning to the tractor's resevoir is no longer pressurized, but it's flowing at around 13gpm, so there's still going to be some pressure built trying to push that much fluid through a small tube with maybe a 3/8" or 1/2" I.D. What's amazing to me is that Kubota uses a chunk of cheap, flexible, clear vinyl tubing for this purpose. The kit simply provides a pair of O-rings to go around either end of the tube, and then you're supposed to fit it snuggly into corresponding holes in the valve body and the tractor body. Nothing holds it in place except the friction of the O-rings against the outside of the tube and the inside of the holes, and the rigidity of the tubing (which is almost zero - this stuff is way more flexible than, say, a piece of garden hose).

The first time I used the remote valve was for drill-seeding a pasture. At first, it worked great and I was glad to see (literally since it's clear plastic) that oil flowed prolifically through the return pipe whenever I raised or lowered the drill. However, after an hour or so of use the warm oil had softened the return pipe to the point that it popped out of the valve and sent hydraulic fluid spraying everywhere. After much swearing and fumbling, I was able to get it back into the hole, but within a few minutes it had come back out and sprayed my tractor and me with a second shower of hydraulic fluid. I ended up having to manually hold the tube against the valve body whenever I raised or lowered the implement, and even then, it still leaked plenty of oil.

I mentioned this problem to my dealer, and he checked other kits he had for L-series tractors, and they all seem to have the same cheap return pipe. He gave me a new one to try (which is an $18 part if I remember correctly - for about 6 cents worth of tubing at Home Depot or Lowes). I installed it, but won't have a chance to try it out until the next time I rent a sod drill or another hydraulic implement. I'm skeptical to say the least.

Clearly I'm not the only person with remotes on my Kubota. I did a cursory search on this forum, and didn't really find anything on this topic. Has anybody else had a similar issue? Any advice?

Thanks.
Josh

Btw, the part in question is labeled 100 in this diagram.

103386d1211786135-kubota-l-3010-remote-hydraulics-scan00022.jpg
 
Last edited:
   / Remote hydraulic valve - ridiculously chintzy return pipe
  • Thread Starter
#2  
By the way, here's a picture where you can see what I'm talking about. As soon as warm oil starts flowing through the clear tube, it begins to soften and sag and droop under the weight of the oil.
 

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   / Remote hydraulic valve - ridiculously chintzy return pipe #3  
Jcaron2:

Jeez that is a "peach." Is the inside of the ports where the O rings hang out threaded or smooth? One way or another, I would be trying to find a way to make that a threaded fitting, even if I had to sweat a fitting in to the two openings. That is just crazy!
 
   / Remote hydraulic valve - ridiculously chintzy return pipe
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Jcaron2:

Jeez that is a "peach." Is the inside of the ports where the O rings hang out threaded or smooth? One way or another, I would be trying to find a way to make that a threaded fitting, even if I had to sweat a fitting in to the two openings. That is just crazy!

No, they're just smooth. I was thinking of tapping them to thread in some fittings, but I haven't checked to see if the diameter lends itself to any common NPT fittings.

This is what an $800 kit from Kubota buys you!
 
   / Remote hydraulic valve - ridiculously chintzy return pipe #5  
That is totally unsat. I believe it should have threads in both ends
 
   / Remote hydraulic valve - ridiculously chintzy return pipe #6  
Could it be replaced with a piece of aluminum pipe ?, groove the ends for some o-rings ?
 
   / Remote hydraulic valve - ridiculously chintzy return pipe #7  
Looks like same valve as on my L3130, there they did use a piece of metal tubing, O rings and a welded tab to secure it. Have same concerns for the GPM though and thats why I wonder about the wisdom of using a rear remote tied down to run a backhoe. Just too much continuous GPM to make me feel safe, that's why I have seperate outlets for the BH.

David Kb7uns
 
   / Remote hydraulic valve - ridiculously chintzy return pipe
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Looks like same valve as on my L3130, there they did use a piece of metal tubing, O rings and a welded tab to secure it.

According to my dealer, all of the add-on valve kits these days are the same as mine. I'm definitely not impressed (to say the least) with their "improved" version. I wonder if I can get Kubota to send me a metal one.
 
   / Remote hydraulic valve - ridiculously chintzy return pipe
  • Thread Starter
#9  
I've got a sod-drill lined up for the weekend, so I decided not to chance it. I took the valve off last night and tapped the holes for the return line. They're something like 14mm diameter, which is just about right for a 3/8" NPT thread. I installed a couple of brass fittings - 3/8NPT to 3/8 ID hose barb. Then I cut the old cheap tubing to the slightly shorter length and installed it between the barbs with hose clamps.

Hopefully it won't go anywhere now. I'll let you know how it works out.
 
   / Remote hydraulic valve - ridiculously chintzy return pipe #10  
I am guessing that you used item #130 in place of item #100 as I have never seen a rubber hose used for that application. You may have been missing Item #100 and this would have caused you to use #130 (plastic hose) it the wrong place. Then your dealer sold you a second wrong part, maybe your dealer parts guy is not the sharpest tool in the shed. As I would call a differant dealer and get the correct metal tube that has spots for the O-rings.
 

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