Remove plow from loader and mount on tractor

[sqdqo]

I currently have a snow plow mounted on my loader boom with angles controlled by a rear outlet. I want to get it off the boom, remove the loader and mount the blade directly to the front of the tractor. Can I use the four outlets that supply the loader and use the loader joystick to control up-down-right-left with it?

 

[xring100]

I currently have a snow plow mounted on my loader boom with angles controlled by a rear outlet. I want to get it off the boom, remove the loader and mount the blade directly to the front of the tractor. Can I use the four outlets that supply the loader and use the loader joystick to control up-down-right-left with it?

Yep sure can OEM front mount plows do what your talking about

 

[aczlan]

Shouldn't be a problem. That's how the blade is controlled on our BX2660.

Aaron Z

 

[davel8257]

What does your current setup look like? What's wrong with the way it is?

 

[sqdqo]

I have a 9' commercial blade weighs about 1K. I plow a 2-1/2 mile piece of road that our county doesn't maintain. I know it's putting a lot of linear stress on the loader boom and it acts like a big lever pushing the front of the tractor all over. I don't want to damage the loader a I want to make the tractor more proficient at pushing snow on the roadway.

QUOTE=davel8257;3591055]What does your current setup look like? What's wrong with the way it is?[/QUOTE]

 

[Piston]

How are you going to mount it to the front of the tractor?

 

[sqdqo]

My plow has a Meyer A frame. I am going to buy a heavy duty Meyer truck mount and fab it to fit the tractor. Bolt on so I can remove it when the time comes.

 

[RedNeckRacin]

Look up a thread by ASGAR, I copied his design twice. Once for a B series tractor and once again for an L series tractor. Currently using the L series still to plow the driveway. I mounted the subframe to the loader support for the push frame and the brush guard has a nice little lip to hang the front end from. It all bolts together and has 0 slop. The lifting post quicklydisconnects so that the loader can be put back on for our normal everyday tasks. I would never mounted a plow on the loader after using this set-up. I have some pictures of my build in that build thread. Subframe Snow Plow

 

[sqdqo]

Your set up looks great! I had similar in mind just wasn't sure if there were any reason I couldn't use the loader control for the plow operation.

Look up a thread by ASGAR, I copied his design twice. Once for a B series tractor and once again for an L series tractor. Currently using the L series still to plow the driveway. I mounted the subframe to the loader support for the push frame and the brush guard has a nice little lip to hang the front end from. It all bolts together and has 0 slop. The lifting post quicklydisconnects so that the loader can be put back on for our normal everyday tasks. I would never mounted a plow on the loader after using this set-up. I have some pictures of my build in that build thread. Subframe Snow Plow

 

[zzvyb6]

It's very easy to match up the A frame of your plow to the tractor undercarriage. I use two square tubing beams dropped forward and down from what used to be the mid-mower mounts. Its attached with studded spherical joints. I have it as close to the front weight bar as possible to allow full plow angling in both directions. I use a double acting cylinder for up/down so I can crack ice buildups using reverse gears. The two single acting OEW plow cylinders are connected in anti-parallel which produces a double acting effect. I used car brake lines to restrict the flow to the angle cylinders. The loader joystick controls make the snow and gravel plow a natural tool. I added two extra trip springs to keep things moving without hiccups. I have shimmed the skid shoes so that the plow blade rides about 1/4 to 3/8 inch above the driveway gravel.

No problems steering or moving any type of snow at any angle and with any road gear. I can outrun cars trying to follow me down my dead-ended road. Extra front weight and loaded rear tires are the only other recommendations. This tractor has 4 wheel drive and left/right brake steer for zero radius turns. When I finish with my 800' driveway and the horseshoe turnaround, the machine has not even warmed up fully.