Remove Tie Rod - B21

[PointyHairedBoss]

I'm a rookie at repairing machinery & looking for some help.

I have small oil leak where the front gear case meets the bevel gear case. You can see the oily smudge in the photo. My problem is that I have to remove the tie rod before I can disconnect the gear case from the front axle. I removed the bottom nut & tapped the bolt but it won't move. From the parts diagaram it doesn't look like there is anything else locking it into place. I don't want to tap it any harder for fear of breaking something.

Am I missing something or is the it just stuck?

 

[Willl]

Pickle fork.

 

[Jay4200]

A fork will probably destroy the ball joint boot.

You need to use a BFH.

Hit the arm on the 'X' in the direction of the arrow. A 3# sledge will probably be sufficient. A good sharp crack or two will release the ball joint.

JayC

 

[TripleR]

What Jay4200 says, it is a tapered stud and there is a thread on here on replacing the tie rod boots with good information on removing the tie rod end. I have that as an upcoming project on my 5030. The ones on my BX2660 came out with just a slight tap.

A pickle fork might be needed if the BFH doesn't work, but as mentioned you will have another boot to replace.

Will be interested to hear your results.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o41XW9MxDf0&feature=channel

 

[PointyHairedBoss]

Thanks for all the quick responses.

Jay, I just tried the BFH (actually I used a medium FH) but no luck. I'll have to get a pickle fork & prder a new boot. I'm afaid of breaking something if I start beating on it.

 

[TripleR]

Thanks for all the quick responses.

Jay, I just tried the BFH (actually I used a medium FH) but no luck. I'll have to get a pickle fork & order a new boot. I'm afraid of breaking something if I start beating on it.

You need to look at your workshop manual cross reference as there is often confusion between a BFH and MFH, a MFH CAN be any size depending on the mood and results, you will then automatically transition to a BMFH.:thumbsup::laughing:

Good luck; sounds like plan, no use breaking something.

 

[Don87]

Thanks for all the quick responses.

Jay, I just tried the BFH (actually I used a medium FH) but no luck. I'll have to get a pickle fork & prder a new boot. I'm afaid of breaking something if I start beating on it.

You won't break it, it's cast iron. Hit it harder.

 

[MichKubota]

Screw the castle nut back onto the threads upside down almost flush to the end of the stud.

Now you can strike the end of the stud without damaging the stud end or threads.

Once you have broke the stud loose remove castle nut and remove tie rod end completely.

 

[PointyHairedBoss]

Thanks all for your help.

Bought BFPF. Worked better than BFH.

Followup question: The joint was full of grease, but there is no grease fitting. When I reassemble, do I fill the new boot with grease before installing?

 

[woodchuckie]

I can't remove mine by hitting on it because of the angle of the dangle etc. So I put a flywheel puller on it making it as tight as I can then a slight tap will get it off.

 

[brain55]

Screw the castle nut back onto the threads upside down almost flush to the end of the stud.

Now you can strike the end of the stud without damaging the stud end or threads.

Once you have broke the stud loose remove castle nut and remove tie rod end completely.

This will work. I actually have a tool that looks like a mini pitman arm puller that pops them loose without damaging the boot.

Brian

 

[Baby Grand]

Thanks all for your help.

Bought BFPF. Worked better than BFH.

Followup question: The joint was full of grease, but there is no grease fitting. When I reassemble, do I fill the new boot with grease before installing?

PHB-
Yes, you fill the boot with grease before installing. When I did this, getting the snap ring back in place went a little like trying to tattoo a greased piglet. Leave yourself lots of time and have plenty of rags handy.
-Jim