Repair of Replace TX1300

[citabra]

To make a long story short, I have an Iseki TX1300 with a cracked piston. The shop that tore it apart is a dealer and claims the $3k-$4k repair bill is not worth it and I should buy one of their new $16k tractors. I now have the tractor in my garage with the motor in pieces. Would it be worth trying to find another piston and put it all back together myself, or should I just part it out and get a new Jinma or used Yanmar?

 

[dbear]

I would think you'd first make some inquiries as to what it would cost for you to fix you tractor. Although somewhat smaller, I did the same thing with my old 3-wheeled mower about 7 years ago. I found out it was still considerably cheaper for me to fix the old gal than replace her.

Also, I take it that the shop you had it at was (1) not where you bought it, and (2) not a grey dealer.

If so, you might want to check with these guys regarding parts availability and cost:

Zephyr Knoll Farms... Imported Used Tractors and Implements

I have no personal dealings with them, but they seem to specialize in Iseki.

 

[rich_ncal]

I would be good to have inputs from some experienced mechanics or others that have owned many more tractors than I have.

What would be the cost of a piston and set of new rings for this tractor?

What would a someone expect to pay for this as a parts tractor?

One poster to a similar question in the Massey Forum had a links to used Massey Ferguson tractors. That seems like good option.

What was the break down for parts and labor for the shop that quoted the work?

 

[svcguy]

3 to 4,000 dollars for someone else to do the work may not be unreasonable, but seems a bit more than I would suspect for a cracked piston. They are probably talking a complete rebuild, which could cost some dollars. The key is: there is no reason you couldn't overhaul it yourself and save a bundle of money. Never rebuilt a motor? No problem. These diesels are the most basic engines in the world. The problem will be parts availability. If parts are not available, I would find a machine shop to weld the piston - it can be done. The tractor would probably last for years. Also remember that gears, rings, seals and many other components can be purchased from many sources other than dealers.

The limiting factor to fixing any engine is thinking it's not practical, but the reality is that if you check everything you do twice while you do it, you won't be unhappy. Remember that at the turn of the century, guys like us were building cars in our backyards, casting our own engine components, designing steering arms and trying to figure out how to make a tractor, not fix one. And this would be without the tools commonly available to us today.

In the sixties, we used to make head gaskets out of copper sheets for British motorcycles. We would heat them cherry red and plunge them into cold water. Rather than annealing them, it would make the copper super soft and make a great head gasket. I have known people who have abandoned a tractor because a head gasket wasn't available, but copper sheets can be purchased almost anywhere. Sure, it would take a bit of careful work to make one, but it can be done.

You may be able to buy a used piston from one of the Japanese tractor bone yards here in North America. There are a number of good people trying to meet your needs on the internet. Take your time, find what you need and share your experience on the forum. There are many people willing to help when they can.

 

[larso1]

"In the sixties, we used to make head gaskets out of copper sheets for British motorcycles. We would heat them cherry red and plunge them into cold water. Rather than annealing them, it would make the copper super soft and make a great head gasket."

Now they're available in copper as factory replacement parts for my old british bike (Norton Commando). I can get either the solid copper head gasket and anneal it just as you describe, or there is a so-called "flame-ring" head gasket made of a hi-temp flexible composite material with a steel O-ring bonded to it for each cylinder bore.

As for the Iseki, if it has an Isuzu motor you can get all your parts from DESSCO.com in Utah. If it's a Mitsubishi you may need to go to a grey market tractor dealer like Len Shaeffer. I replaced the rings, rod-to-crank bearings, valve seals, and rocker arms/shaft on my Iseki TS1910F while the tractor was sitting in my shed. Very easy to pull the peripheral equipment and head off and do the job with motor in place. Also honed the cylinders with a ball hone and replaced the head gasket of course. As easy as working on my Norton.

Bill

 

[citabra]

Excellent feedback. I am hearing that I need to do some more research to find out what my cost would be to repair it myself. I went through all the pieces and part to see what I think needs replaced since I never received an itemized estimate (my first red flag). I was able to order a piston and head gasket today for a reasonable price. The parts distributor said he can probable get most of the parts for the Mitsubishi KE70, so I think I have a good source if there is any other parts I might need. The cylinder walls look great and the tractor never smoked, so I think the rings should be fine on the new piston. Since this is not a complete rebuild, I don't initially plan to replace every seal and bearing possible. To reassemble the oil pan, cylinder head and valve cover, is there any other parts that should always be replaced? I think the valve cover and oil pan can be sealed with supplies available locally. Thinks in advance for your input. I really appreciate being able to pick the brains of the persons who have much more experience in these matters than I.

 

[svcguy]

It sounds like you have a good handle on things. The one recommendation I would make is to consider renewing the rings, (unless they were recently replaced). At the very least, borrow a ridge reamer and remove any ridge. It may not seem like there is one, but you don't need much of a ridge to break a top ring. While the new piston should be absolutely identical to the original, all you need is for the top ring groove to be three thousands of an inch higher and you have a broken ring on engine start.

Not to suggest you don't know this, but a couple of additional thoughts for what they are worth:

1) When assembling, put some short rubber hose pieces (fuel line or other) over the rod bolts. This will prevent any nicks on your journals when you drop them in. And carefully check your journals for any light nicks from disassembly. If you find any, polish out very lightly with crocus cloth.

2) If you do hone, finish cleaning your cylinders with ATF using clean white rags until they come out without the gray residual. You will be happy you did.

3) Torque in steps. Make sure all your bolt threads are clean and very lightly oiled. Check everything twice.

4) Depending on the type of head gasket you received, a very thin spray adhesive can be beneficial. It depends on the gasket type though, some need to be installed dry. Ask the supplier.

5) Ensure you don't mix up your rod caps or orientate the pistons incorrectly. Everything should go back exactly the same way it came a part.

6) I usually replace the manifold gasket(s). If originals have not been damaged or disturbed, you are good to go.

7) Assemble with plenty of clean oil on all bearing surfaces. Have three rolls of paper towels or lots of clean rags within arms reach and keep your hands clean. (I have overhauled under extremely filthy conditions with excellent results, but cleaner is always better).

8) As you said, I wouldn't worry about your seals unless already leaking, but keep in mind the engine is disassembled at the moment. It doesn't get any easier than right now if something is suspect.

Good luck with your project. I think you will be really happy with the result.

 

[kenmac]

try this guy mailto:sheaftractor@grics.net He deals in ISEKI parts

 

[keltonkrew]

I used to have an Iseki (Bolens G174). Although I didn't have to do engine work these things are pretty simple.

My dad has a David Brown (Case) 42hp tractor. When I picked it up for him, the guy had the engine torn apart and in 5 gallon buckets filled with oil....I had no idea what went where.

I spent about $200 on a good set of shop manuals and proceeded to put it all back together. New rings, gaskets, etc. Had the injector pump rebuilt, injectors cleaned, etc.

I had the tractor running for under 1 grand.....Granted this tractor was a 1972 model and a little bigger, but these aren't that complicated. I had never been inside a diesel engine before so I'm no mechanic.

I say get you a piston, rings and gaskets. Hone the cylinders and put all back together. Just check bearing clearances while re-installing...

to me 1 grand is much better than 16 grand if all other items on your tractor work!