Repair of shifter pin Ford 801

[Super_Chief]

I Know I should buy the manual, but enjoy reading others repair questions here, usually more comprehensive and concise.
Have the replace the $3 shifter pin on a Ford 801. Do I have to remove the cover plate? If not, which direction should I drive the old pin out?
It is of course broken/worn evenly on both sides of the shaft.

 

[john_bud]

4spd, 5spd, SOS?


If it's the 4 speed, I think they just drive out with a correctly sized drift, no big deal. You may want to pull the lever all the way out (start with the trans in N!!!!) and inspect the shift balls. They are part of the lever and engage the shift plates in the transmission. The plates are hardened, but the lever is softer. They should be round and 0.500" in diameter. If too small, they can give only partial gear engagement.

You should also put in new springs for the shift lock balls. 1 under the cover the others are external. There is a spring that pushes the ball into a notch on the shift rail. If weak, the trans can jump out of gear. New springs and balls are cheap. Worn lever balls, detent balls and weak springs are the common cause of jumping out of gear. After a few jumps, the gears get worn and it spirals down from there, so fix it up before it breaks.

The 5 speed has shift plungers, but they serve the same purpose and should also get replaced every 30-40 years also.

jb

 

[Super_Chief]

Thanks for the info.
I had the replacement pin on hand and it only had one end splined about a half an inch in the original pin was worn flush with the big ball and after drilling and punching found the original pin had been splined on both ends.
I will have to take a closer look at the springs and balls etc., I did pull the cover to get it closer to the workbench to figure it all out. I also wanted to look at the neutral safety switch because it had been disabled. Now I gotta figure out the wiring to the starter. It is a diesel so I know the concept but the guy that owned it before me replaced the selenoid and I am hoping that I don't have to get another one that the ground isolated. There appears to be four terminals on the replacement so am hoping it was the right one for the diesel. It has a three wire Delco generator on it so figuring out the basic field wire etc should be a snap.
On the same note I may have to go with the current shifter even if it is worn for at least a while as I bought it to be working tractor and now am realizing that "working" is taking on a second meaning.
Anyway, when I took the cover off I noticed fairly low lube content as the gears were only about a quarter submerged. How much should I have in there and what type of lube should be in there? And, is there an external bolt etc to pull to check the proper level?
Not that I am too cheap to get a manual, but I am finding I need to get to work clearing land and old timber to put the house on the property.
Recently retired after 47 years with the government of which 27 was in the Navy. So, moved from AZ to GA and bought some land, and then realized I still needed to do some of the work to save money,
Sorry this is so long for such a short subject,

 

[john_bud]

There is a level bolt on the right side of the transmission towards the back. It takes about 5 qts for the 4 speed, 8.5 qts for the 5 speed and 11.5 qts for the SOS.

The gear trans take 80w90 by the book, but can be swapped over to universal trans/hydraulic fluid like UTF or fords 134 fluid. I use the gear lube.

If you post over on ytmag.com in the ford section, you will find a lot more old ford iron guys with tons and tons of info to share. (The search function can turn up a bunch for you).

Good luck!
jb