bumperm
Veteran Member
First, consider instead being more careful, or smarter than me and avoid breaking the door glass.
My mistake: 6 weeks our of back surgery, wife wanted me to use tractor w/forks and pallet to lift lift her to prune some apple trees. Not motoring along at 100% but that's little excuse. I opened right door to start and warm up tractor, which was backed into shed with backhoe attachment off to the right side. I climbed in left door and started to move forward. Right door was still open and hit backhoe. Door exploded, little bit of glass flying everywhere. It was about as shattered and me.:confused2:
Ordered new door $647 shipped to local Kubota dealer, along with one of the five tiny screws, 4 hold the inside lock cover to the it's mechanism, and 1 holds the inside door release handle to its shaft (one of the cover screws was missing, apparently never installed by the factory).
Remove two hinges from cab, a small flat blade screw driver can pryse or 90* hook can pull to remove the circlip at bottom of each hinge pin. note there is one plastic bearing washer on the top of each hinge bracket welded to the frame, these can easily get dislodged and lost, so look for them when removing hinge.
Gas spring removes using 12mm open wrench to unscrew each ball end from frame and inside lower hinge bracket. When disassembling door lock inside cover, you will need a #1 Phillips head driver in good condition. The screw recess is too shallow, so you will need to grind a little bit off the tip of the driver and test it in the screw that is attaching the inside door lever to its shaft (this is the easiest screw to remove, so take it out first. Make sure it fits snugly in in the removed screw with no wobble - you may have to take a little more off the tip of the driver to get a good fit, as the screws mounting the cover are down aways, in there tightly, and you don't want to strip the head by allowing the driver to cam. Unscrew lock button and cover comes off. You will need to remove the circlip holding the white plastic fitting on the bottom lock cylinder, remove two 10mm bolts, and it'll come apart. Fastidiously clean all glass particles from rubber, a putty knife and stiff bristle brush can help.
You will need a #3 Phillips driver, and possibly and impact wrench, to disassemble door hinge plates and handle grab bar forward mount. Apply a bit of penetrating oil (or even WD40) to underside of screw head and lock washer - this will help a lot. When disassembled, clean all glass bits and set aside.
I reused clip on weather strip (new one was $84, so figured I'd save a little. To make an effective tool to remove glass fragments from strip, I used a length of 3/16" rod, ground to flats on one end (like a flat blade screwdriver) the grinds being 3/4 or more long, and ground to almost a sharp edge. Then I deburred the tip and rounded it's two side edges slightly so it would not hook into or cut the rubber. About 1.5" back from that tip I bent a little more than a 90* angle in the shaft of the tool. Finally, about 5 or so inches from the working end, I bent a 180* loop that would hook over the bottom of my hand palm to provide pull and angle control.
To use the tool, it's inserted down into the strip track and the tip pushed under the glass. Then the tool can be either pulled out to remove glass bits, or rocked back to it levers the glass out. Sometimes it helps to fled the weather strip back on itself a little to help (not too far to avoid damaging it). After removing glass, go back around with the tool another time or too, scraping and checking to make sure all glass bits are out.
Use caution handling the glass, not let a corner support the weight of the door resting on a hard surface (concrete floor), or you may get to start over - no, I didn't goof and do that, but I was worried. Put the weatherstrip on next as it will help protect the door while moving it to attach hardware. Look at your good door. On the inside rear, a foot down on so you will see a couple of paint dots on the rubber weather strip. These go in about the same spot on the new door. The sort of pre-bent corners (if you are using the old weatherstrip like me) will show you what goes where. Save the long, hinge edge of the door for last as the stip stretches a bit there and the length will work in your favor.
If the gas spring mounting tab on door hinge is bent, straighten that. Best is put the flat base in a padded vise and use an adjustable wrench, dead blow hammer, piece of hardwood as a punch, whatever, to get it straight. Place the inner grab handle in it's position on the inner (concave) surface of the door to make sure both ends fit flat onto the glass. You can also hold the grab handle in "mirror" fashion up against the other good grab handle to make sure the angles look the same to the eye and the thing hasn't been bent (mine wasn't). If it has been bent and you attempt to install it onto the door glass, it may flex and bend the door so that it does not fit flush to the frame. When installing these parts to the glass, go slow and insure things line up and gently snug up the screws. I installed all hardware but the door handle/lock before mounting the door.
To mount the door best to have two people minimum. Three would be better. Lube hinge pins, install plastic washers on cab hinge bracket. Lift door to engage pins being sure plastic washers stay put. with both door hinges approximately aligned, get top pin started and then bottom. You can swing door slowly, gently loosen and door hinge brackets (just a little, whatever, to get pins seated all the way. Then snug up door hardware. The rest is a piece of cake.
Really, don't break the glass!
My mistake: 6 weeks our of back surgery, wife wanted me to use tractor w/forks and pallet to lift lift her to prune some apple trees. Not motoring along at 100% but that's little excuse. I opened right door to start and warm up tractor, which was backed into shed with backhoe attachment off to the right side. I climbed in left door and started to move forward. Right door was still open and hit backhoe. Door exploded, little bit of glass flying everywhere. It was about as shattered and me.:confused2:
Ordered new door $647 shipped to local Kubota dealer, along with one of the five tiny screws, 4 hold the inside lock cover to the it's mechanism, and 1 holds the inside door release handle to its shaft (one of the cover screws was missing, apparently never installed by the factory).
Remove two hinges from cab, a small flat blade screw driver can pryse or 90* hook can pull to remove the circlip at bottom of each hinge pin. note there is one plastic bearing washer on the top of each hinge bracket welded to the frame, these can easily get dislodged and lost, so look for them when removing hinge.
Gas spring removes using 12mm open wrench to unscrew each ball end from frame and inside lower hinge bracket. When disassembling door lock inside cover, you will need a #1 Phillips head driver in good condition. The screw recess is too shallow, so you will need to grind a little bit off the tip of the driver and test it in the screw that is attaching the inside door lever to its shaft (this is the easiest screw to remove, so take it out first. Make sure it fits snugly in in the removed screw with no wobble - you may have to take a little more off the tip of the driver to get a good fit, as the screws mounting the cover are down aways, in there tightly, and you don't want to strip the head by allowing the driver to cam. Unscrew lock button and cover comes off. You will need to remove the circlip holding the white plastic fitting on the bottom lock cylinder, remove two 10mm bolts, and it'll come apart. Fastidiously clean all glass particles from rubber, a putty knife and stiff bristle brush can help.
You will need a #3 Phillips driver, and possibly and impact wrench, to disassemble door hinge plates and handle grab bar forward mount. Apply a bit of penetrating oil (or even WD40) to underside of screw head and lock washer - this will help a lot. When disassembled, clean all glass bits and set aside.
I reused clip on weather strip (new one was $84, so figured I'd save a little. To make an effective tool to remove glass fragments from strip, I used a length of 3/16" rod, ground to flats on one end (like a flat blade screwdriver) the grinds being 3/4 or more long, and ground to almost a sharp edge. Then I deburred the tip and rounded it's two side edges slightly so it would not hook into or cut the rubber. About 1.5" back from that tip I bent a little more than a 90* angle in the shaft of the tool. Finally, about 5 or so inches from the working end, I bent a 180* loop that would hook over the bottom of my hand palm to provide pull and angle control.
To use the tool, it's inserted down into the strip track and the tip pushed under the glass. Then the tool can be either pulled out to remove glass bits, or rocked back to it levers the glass out. Sometimes it helps to fled the weather strip back on itself a little to help (not too far to avoid damaging it). After removing glass, go back around with the tool another time or too, scraping and checking to make sure all glass bits are out.
Use caution handling the glass, not let a corner support the weight of the door resting on a hard surface (concrete floor), or you may get to start over - no, I didn't goof and do that, but I was worried. Put the weatherstrip on next as it will help protect the door while moving it to attach hardware. Look at your good door. On the inside rear, a foot down on so you will see a couple of paint dots on the rubber weather strip. These go in about the same spot on the new door. The sort of pre-bent corners (if you are using the old weatherstrip like me) will show you what goes where. Save the long, hinge edge of the door for last as the stip stretches a bit there and the length will work in your favor.
If the gas spring mounting tab on door hinge is bent, straighten that. Best is put the flat base in a padded vise and use an adjustable wrench, dead blow hammer, piece of hardwood as a punch, whatever, to get it straight. Place the inner grab handle in it's position on the inner (concave) surface of the door to make sure both ends fit flat onto the glass. You can also hold the grab handle in "mirror" fashion up against the other good grab handle to make sure the angles look the same to the eye and the thing hasn't been bent (mine wasn't). If it has been bent and you attempt to install it onto the door glass, it may flex and bend the door so that it does not fit flush to the frame. When installing these parts to the glass, go slow and insure things line up and gently snug up the screws. I installed all hardware but the door handle/lock before mounting the door.
To mount the door best to have two people minimum. Three would be better. Lube hinge pins, install plastic washers on cab hinge bracket. Lift door to engage pins being sure plastic washers stay put. with both door hinges approximately aligned, get top pin started and then bottom. You can swing door slowly, gently loosen and door hinge brackets (just a little, whatever, to get pins seated all the way. Then snug up door hardware. The rest is a piece of cake.
Really, don't break the glass!
