Replacing rear wheel seal and Brake shaft seal and Rockshaft O ring on YM2000.

[clemsonfor]

I thought I posted a thread on this when I did the one side a few years back. I don't see it so I will start a totally new post. I know I posted about it, but maybe it was in another persons thread and not a post started by me? I just went back through all my started threads for like 7 years and didn't see it?

So anyway I did the one side years ago, replaced the collar as well. The left side wasent leaking and being cheap I just left it. Well its been at least 3 years and possibly 4 or 5 since I did it and when I pulled the tire off to do the brake shaft seal and get easier access to that I noticed the flange for the tire seal was wet. I had already ordered the brake shaft seal parts. But when I went to do it I noticed there was an o ring back there that I didn't order so I ordered those o rings and the o rings for the lift arms and got another seal and collar for the wheel. I will briefly cover the replacement of all these items for folks interested in the future. This may take me a bit to get the pics up and brief captions so bear with me and don't just say I don't see pics or where is it.

 

[clemsonfor]

Here is a pic of the leaking brake seal. This was apart , some of you may have read my other post on my brakes unadjusting. Well after talking at Aaron At Hoye he said the rust was chewing the brakes up. So anyway while this was open while I was taking care of that I noticed it started to weep?? Never was wet before but I'm glad it happened while it was open and partially torn down.

The wheel seal I noticed like I said when I pulled the tire for access to the brake area to replace it. And I noticed the lift arm and wanted to replace those o rings for years to try to stop the weeping it would do when it got real hot. Here is a pic of lift arm removed and rock shaft exposed. The oring goes around the rock shaft between it and the houseing. I don't have a good pic of the brake shaft colar. I can take one at the house later. But it's very different than the wheel seal colar. There is no rubber on this one. I assume the o ring that rides behind it is what keeps oil from running around the shaft between the collar and the shaft. On the wheel seal the collar for it has rubber on the under side and is a much tighter fit.

 

[clemsonfor]

You will need a puller to pull the hub off the axle once you take that center bolt and washer off.

The shot of the axle after the 4 bolts and flange were taken off. That white paper stuff is the gaskets that VN refurbished use. It's like a thin paper and some type of glue ot seems like. The paper literally rips apart and it left glued to each surface. Had to knock the flange off with a dead blow. And use a wire wheel to clean it off. It seals well I'll say that.

This job may be a good point to change your hydro oil as you will loose about 2.5 gallons when you open the axle tube. I don't have a ton of hours on mine so I left it in there and just let it drain below the axle tube and chose to replace what I lost with partial buckets I have left from past changes. But if you decide to drain it and clean screen just pull the drain plug and this part won't be as messy.

 

[clemsonfor]

I see this site is going to drive me crazy turning my pics on their side!!

Hope a mod sees this and helps...I may have to pm for help correcting this.

 

[clemsonfor]

The pic with the flange on the bucket is after I put some paint on it. This is the flange that you seal sits in. You bolt it to the axle tube with that thin sheet metal cover on the outside of it all, it protects the seal from sticks and vines and stuff from getting the seal and cutting it. The other pic is of it all bolted back up togeather.

 

[clemsonfor]

This picture illustrates the reason why you replace the axle collar with the wheel seal when you do this job. This is the axle collar, the seal rides on this surface to seal it. The inside of this collar has a rubber inside to seal between it and the axle shaft.

To get this collar off I king of pryed it being careful of the bearing. If you had a massive pair of channel locks you may be to grab it and work it off twisting it. Or you can use a chisel or Dremel and cut it and peel it off , being careful of the shaft in the process if the rubber is kind of stuck on it. But it is a tight fit.

The shiny surface is where The seal rides, you can see tiny pits on the sealing surface. A new seal may work for awhile till it chews the new one up. But my guess is this is the seal that came in the tractor new. You can see the rust on both sides the outer is just from the environment of what's exposed behind the hub but the inside is either from water in the oil or just moisture inside the transmission rusting the surface of this collar.

Sorry for the rambeling. Next post in a bit.

 

[clemsonfor]

Here is a pic of the brake backing plate about to be installed. Then a pic of it reinstalled on the tractor.

The pic of the random stuff is the 2 seals and o rings that were pulled out. The big seal is from the wheel, the smaller seal is the brake shaft seal. The large o ring is from the rock shaft, the smaller o ring goes behind the collar for the brake shaft seal, the collar for it is in a bag not seen and the large metal ring is the wheel collar .

 

[clemsonfor]

I know this is long winded and a bit random and not really a step by step, but its not exactly intend to be that way. If you have questions feel free to ask I will answer them best I can.

 

[winston1]

Thanks for taking the time to share, especially the pictures. No doubt they will come in handy for someone on down the road.

 

[clemsonfor]

Yea I try to take pics during the process to post here since info is limited and not many take pics and post chronological pics. After it was done I was looking back through and wish I had taken more than I did, like one with brake seal removed to show collar. But like most I was trying to get a job done. Pics were for things like this later not planning them out.