replacing teeth on scarifiers

MLB · Oct 3, 2003

Do you heat them up before pounding them? I've just done it cold, but i''ve lost several this year.

Hoeman00 · Oct 3, 2003

Yes I would heat them so u can get a good crimp on them.
If I was lossing them I'd weld them on and just refresh them w/ a piece of leaf spring when they get wore down.
I've never lost any teeth on the scarifier but do lose then on the hoe buckets.

MLB · Oct 3, 2003

But I was also told to consider them as a shear pin. if you hit a big enough buried rock you knock the tooth off instead of transmitting the force through the 'shank' and maybe breaking that. FWIW

Hoeman00 · Oct 3, 2003

If the box is level or tipped down in the front , a rock is going to push the tooth on more so I don't see the tooth coming loose unless u rip the back out of it.
I have hit lots of rocks and everything else, it just spins the wheels.
Even on my 7000+# SSL which has lots more power than my 35D the only weak point is bending the lower 3PT pins.

MLB · Oct 3, 2003

So is a propane torch hot enough? Or do I need a welder type heat?

Hoeman00 · Oct 4, 2003

Gas axe type heat, it needs to be atleast red and orange would be better.

OkieG · Oct 5, 2003

My torch is propane/oxy, and worked great for the one Boxblade scarifier tooth and one Backhoe tooth that came off and needed to be reattached. Can't remember if I heated to red/orange, as Hoeman suggests. but once it was heated, the metal "crimped" very easily with hammer and blunt punch. I was impressed with how easy the job was with the help of "heat".

I assume a non-oxified propane torch won't be quite as hot, but if that's what you have, it would sure be easy to try it and see if it works.

OkieG

OkieG · Oct 5, 2003

<font color="blue"> just refresh them w/ a piece of leaf spring when they get wore down.
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I replaced a missing Boxblade tooth with a brand new one. The new tooth was too long. I expected all kinds of trouble cutting it to match the other teeth, thinking it would be very hard metal. To my surprise, it cut very easily...like it was mild steel. I like your leaf spring idea, as I also thought about welding longer new teeth on top of the short old ones.

OkieG

MLB · Oct 6, 2003

soft is right! the two teeth I lost I kept on blading as the bare shank still cut in just fine. Wore the tips down way more than I would have thought possible that quickly. Had to replace one shank because it ground it down too much for the tooth to seat on. That's in 2 days use!

Hoeman00 · Oct 6, 2003

U can't believe how fast DIRT can wear steel.
We've got a 5 shank subsoiler from Case that runs a wing type tip.
The wing lifts the whole soil profile and fractures the hardpan.
We run around 18-22" deep.
The wings are really hi $$$ and don't last over50-60 acres.
The dealer said they weld backhoe teeth onto the front of the wings to get them over 100 acres a set now.
We are replacing springs in our spray truck all the time and I keep the pieces, they work great for building up the tips on teeth.
MLB do u still have the shank?
Just weld the tip on and keep it for a spare.