Replacing tines on a King Kutter rototiller

[HCJtractor]

My buddy has a King Kutter tiller, either a 5 or 6 footer. I haven't seen it, but he says the tines are very worn, and if I'll help him replace them, I can use it whenever. So any advice? I see the tines online, both OEM which seem to be made in China, and also Italian tines (which the seller claims to be better). Also see bolt kits.

What are the chances of breaking the bolts free and reusing them? Or are the heads usually too worn? How big a job is this? Know there are two bolts per tine. Or should I expect to have to cut off these old bolts? If so, with a cut off wheel or torch?

Thanks for any tips. I need to inspect it to see what condition it's in.

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[oosik]

I have a Troy Bilt tiller. Replaced the tines many years ago. Sprayed WD-40 on the nuts - let it sit over night - hit it with an impact wrench and the nuts came right off.

Otherwise - I'd use a cut off wheel on the nuts. Clean one of the bolts and see what the threads look like. If they are really gummed up - a cut off wheel will do the job.

 

[sixdogs]

No problem changing blades and the bolts are easily reusable and the heads should not be worn at all . Change the entire set of blades.

The way I change mine is to do it one group at a time. If there are 5 tines I remove 4 and loosen the 5th to avoid any mix up of direction or placement. After I do the 4 I do the final one and then move on to the next batch of tines. If there are lock washers I replace them all. I always reuse bolts but make sure to use medium strength blue lock tite. You must do that or they can work loose. I only use "C" shaped blades rather than "L" shaped blades because they wear better and are easier on the machine. Buy the Italian blades and it's worth noting to shop around since many tines are interchangeable.

This is not a difficult job but can be time consuming and can bang up your hands so I wear gloves.

 

[bjr]

You better pay attention model/manufacturer fit. As the bolt hole location IS important (I had to buy mine right from the dealer) and I think you put right and left tines on the same flange only on opposite sides. This is a expensive maintenance operation, so don't die of sticker shock when you price those tines. If you decide to change out bolts figure on another $100, just for the bolts (for a 6'), maybe a little less. Have some socket drive extensions and impact type wobble sockets at ready. I use a least a grade 5 /w lock-nut and it seems as though the bolts were a 9/16" diameter. I've done several sets of KK's. bjr

 

[Stimw]

If you need to cut the bolts use an air chisel and split the nuts. It will be easier than a cut off wheel.
I take a lot of rusted nuts and bolts apart and one trick I use is to take an air chisel bit with a flat end and put it on the flat of the nut and rattle it. They usually come apart easily and I can re-use them.

 

[Leejohn]

Around here when a buddy ask to come over and help, it means he well watch while you do the work. He also drinks a beer while you are helping and only gives you one when the job is done. He is also real good at holding your truck up.

 

[sixdogs]

Maybe I had different results than the others but don't cut the bolts off. Tiller bolts are often an odd side or super strength and are costly to replace because they are proprietary. I have reused hundreds of bolts--never replaced one--by taking them apart and using Loctite (blue-medium strength) on the reassembly. Never had one loosen that way and I use tillers very hard. The blades get the abuse but the bolts are up high and protected.

Leejohn makes a valid point in that a friend who wants help changing blades has likely done it before and would gladly trade off a little equipment use for the reward of not having to endure the blade change. it's hard to use anything but two box wrenches and elbow grease to change them because they are so close. I always tighten with two box wrenches so I know exactly how tight things are. Good luck.

 

[HCJtractor]

Thanks for all the advice. Keep in mind I haven't seen it up close. So can I use a air driven ratchet? I assume an impact drive will not fit in the space, but not sure. What's a "wobble drive"? Will that allow me to use the more powerful impact driver? Or will it all have to be done by hand? Want to have the best tools to make this easier.

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[sixdogs]

For me, two of the longest box wrenches I could find worked the best. An air ratchet with a stubby socket might work and would be great to loosen things but it probably is too tight. You'll just have to trial and error. The best tool is determination.

A wobble drive can be a double jointed stubby extension or it could be an extension with sloppy fit dimensions so you can gain that extra little bit. Not sure if enough room for these but probably not.

Some pics along the way would be nice.

 

[bigtiller]

I replaced the tines on my jd 450 tiller in the spring of 2002. I lifted it to about waist height with my cherry picker and it was a very easy job from there. The tines were just over $7 apiece and the entire job was about $200 with new hardware. The bolts were easier to break off than to loosen but i don't remember exactly how i did that, but it was probably with 2 long wrenches.