restoring rusted parts

   / restoring rusted parts #1  

RancherSam

Silver Member
Joined
Aug 8, 2005
Messages
102
Location
Hays County, TX
Tractor
Case IH JX95 4x4
I'm in the process of changing out discs on one side of a 14' rhino disc harrow I bought ( they're probably not made anymore - this is a used unit ). Of course all the bolts are rusted solid, and it was quite an ordeal to open the nut to start sliding out the discs. Of course when I put these rusted nuts and ubolts back, I want them to be in a better shape then when I removed them. So here's my question: what chemical spray or bath can I give these guys for rust protection. I can probably buy new galvanized nuts, but the ubolts are humongous and I don't think tractor supply would carry them, so I want to try to restore them myself. Any advice on this would be much appreciated.

Sam
 
   / restoring rusted parts #2  
Afternoon Sam,
As you say the rusted nuts and bolts that are cheap just replace them with new stuff, save yourself some headeaches ! The more expensive hardware such as the big U bolts etc I would suggest getting a wire wheel on a good bench grinder to get the bulk of the rust off. I then take alot of these parts and wrap the threads with masking tape and sand blast them at work. Then prime and paint. They do have products out there that you can paint over the rust but I have only used that technique on a limited basis. IMO its best to get all that scale off the parts and then sandblast for a nice clean finish JMO ! ;)
 
   / restoring rusted parts #3  
I was in the same boat as you when I rebuilt my disk, nobody had the same size U-bolts so I just sprayed them with PB Blaster and took them off and reused them. I still spray the U-bolts everytime I use the disk and I have not seen any new rust. But I do store all my equipment in the barn.
 
   / restoring rusted parts #5  
You could clean them up with chemistry, specifically electrolysis. I use it to clean parts that are still serviceable but rusty. You need a few things:

1) 5 gal. bucket
2) Some scrap steel that will reach the bottom of the bucket and stick out of the top about 2". I use 1" flatbar, but anything steel will work (rebar, etc.). You need 4 or 5 pieces.
3) Some wire. It can be anything, stripped out solid Romex, fence wire, anything that will conduct electricity.
4) A 12V non-automatic battery charger
5) Arm and Hammer Laundry Detergent (about a tablespoon per gallon)
6) A stick long enough to reach across the bucket

Fill up the bucket with water (leave at least 6" or so at the top), add the appropriate amount of Arm and Hammer and mix it up by hand. Just stir it in good, no need to make bubbles. Affix the scrap steel to the sides of the bucket with clamps (spring clamps work great). The process is "line of sight", so if you're doing u-bolts you'd want to space the scrap (the electrodes) evenly around the rim of the bucket. Connect all the scrap together electrically with wire. I drill holes in flatbar and run fence wire through them and braze them, but as long as their all continuous (again electrically) it will work. Take the piece you want to clean, say the u-bolt, and suspend it in the bucket, completely submerged, from the stick by another piece of wire. Now the fun part. Hook up your battery charger as follows - do not reverse the connections or your part will get more rusty - the positive clamp to one (and thus all) of the scrap around the rim and the negative clamp on the wire that your part is suspended from. Turn the charger on. Nearly immediately you will see bubbling and within minutes rust will float to the top. The majority of it will stick to the scrap. If you're dealing with a lot of rust, you may have to remove the electrodes after a few hours and scrape them off (the reason I use flatbar). The water will not shock you. This process is self terminating, i.e. you do not have to catch it when it's done and it will not remove steel from your part, only rust. I let mine run at 6 amps overnight usually. If you've never done it before, you'll be amazed at how well it works.

Here's the only pic I have of one of my runs, I was removing rust from the front side of a crankshaft pulley (which is why all of my electrodes are together). It came out looking new. For bunches of little parts, or multiple parts you can suspend them in a wire basket. Just remember it's line of sight. If you can't draw a line from a section of your part to one of the electrodes, it will not be cleaned as well if at all.

2233700ElectrolysisSetup.JPG
 
   / restoring rusted parts #6  
I use diluted phosphoric acid or muriatic acid (swimming pool ph adjusting acid). Not a good idea if the metal is galvanized.
I haven't tried the electrolysis method yet but believe it will do wonders if you have the time and energy to try it.
 
   / restoring rusted parts #7  
I've used electrolysis like another person suggested. Sand blasting is also good but requires equipment that most don't have or can't easily put together like for electrolysis. Next down the line is wire brushing. No matter what you do, I'd apply a rust converter to it before priming and painting. Rustoleum makes something called Rust Reformer, available at any paint store or Lowes or Home Depot. You can also buy an equivalent at auto supply stores. One's called Rust Extender. These chemicals convert iron oxide (rust, red in color, and catalyzes the formation of more rust) to iron sulfide (black in color and inert).

I've put these chemical treatments on bare metal to inert any rust present and have left it bare, and it hasn't rusted.

Ralph
 
   / restoring rusted parts #8  
If you are just talking Ubolts you can just go to a truck spring shop and they will bend you new ones, I think only about $5.00 bucks apiece
 
 

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