road grader/crowner ideas
- Thread starter Renze
- Start date
- Views: 7647
I just straightened and welded the cutting edge i scavenged from a farm dealership scrap bin (it cost me only 2.50 Euro scrap price because it was bent, but the pipe bender did its work 
) to my front loader bucket.
New ones are 120 Euro for 3 meter (10 feet)...
I just come home from work, where a mate helped me to curl a grader moldboard on the brake press. I am going to use the rear axle of my previous front wheel drive car behind the moldboard, and a very old truck hub as a main blade angle turret.
I think with a following axle and 3pt hitch hookup, i can smooth it out pretty nice by using the tractor's top link sensing draft control. When the tractor bucks into a hole with the front wheels, the top link sensor makes the lift arms drop, when the rear axle drops into the hole, the top link is compressed and the blade is lifted.
When the forward speed is in rough balance with the size of the holes and bumps i think it will auto level a lot of dunes out of the road.
) to my front loader bucket.New ones are 120 Euro for 3 meter (10 feet)...
I just come home from work, where a mate helped me to curl a grader moldboard on the brake press. I am going to use the rear axle of my previous front wheel drive car behind the moldboard, and a very old truck hub as a main blade angle turret.
I think with a following axle and 3pt hitch hookup, i can smooth it out pretty nice by using the tractor's top link sensing draft control. When the tractor bucks into a hole with the front wheels, the top link sensor makes the lift arms drop, when the rear axle drops into the hole, the top link is compressed and the blade is lifted.
When the forward speed is in rough balance with the size of the holes and bumps i think it will auto level a lot of dunes out of the road.