Root Ball Problem When Plowing

[TurkeyHerder]

Good day. I currently have an old John Deere 2-bottom plow that I use to turn several fields that have not been worked for several decades. There is a major root system under the soil and the plow constantly plugs up with root balls. I spoke with a few people that seemed to know what they were talking about and they told me this was common to the model of plow I use. Does anyone know of a 2-bottom plow, in particular a 2x12 or a 2x14, that does not get plugged with roots as much as my Deere?

 

[Deerherd]

With the description you gave, most 2 bottom plows will have problems like you describe, especially without coulters. If you have a disc you can cut up the sod first then use your current plow.

Dave

 

[schmism]

you need coulters (the discs that slice the ground before the plow)

after that if the plow is setup correctly and your pulling a the correct speed, it should have no issue passing the material.

 

[TomSeller]

Both previous posts are spot on.

 

[TurkeyHerder]

I did use coulters but possibly I did not have the plow adjusted correctly. Thanks all for the replies. I will take a stab at adjusting the plow.

 

[Egon]

For turning sod a different mouldboard is used than is used for cultivated ground.:thumbsup:

 

[allen in texas]

If you ask me, you should 'not' disk before plowing.

 

[Deerherd]

If you ask me, you should 'not' disk before plowing.

I wouldn't either with my equipment but sometimes you have to go with the girl you brought.

He has a 35 HP HST tractor, probably with R4's, pulling a unknow vintage, not sure if it's adjusted correctly plow. And oh by the way the ground he's working hasn't been fitted in DECADES. Searching on the Internet for the correct sod moldboard replacement may be a great way to waste two to three months of evenings, but he's probably looking for a quicker solution. He sounds like a "Git er done" kind of guy.

And if the root system he has is anything like what I have run into, he can adjust that plow till the cows come home and still have the same problem.

So if you have a better solution to cutting up all that sod, we sure would like to hear it.

Dave

 

[allen in texas]

Ok to the OP Turkey Herder,
I need a more descriptive post other than plugging up with root balls.
Are the roots piling up on the shanks and plugging up the plow. If so, make sure your coulters are set properly and cut the sod in front of the shank with the cut being just left of the leading edge of the shank.
or
is the sod just coming up so large that it won't pass under the frame of the plow. Don't plow so deep and that brings the question of, how big is your plow 12, 14, 16 inches?
And finally, what are the plants that created the root balls. Perhaps I don't understand what you mean. By root ball are you saying just a mass of roots that collects as you plow and creates a ball of roots on the plow or do you mean a root ball like the root ball of a tree?

And just FYI, I've had both of my plows plug but it can be lessened with proper setup.
"He has a 35 HP HST tractor, probably with R4's, pulling a unknow vintage, not sure if it's adjusted correctly plow"
That's why I mentioned "proper setup"

The reason I wouldn't disk before plowing is number one, it will lessen your traction and number two, disking was always for after plowing when I lived on the farm. Things could be different now.
Just my $.03 (adjusted for inflation)

 

[hammer54]

Sounds like Coulter misalignment like Allen in Texas said. I used to have similar problems when plowing sod after years of plowing previously cultivated fields. The coulters would get out of line from rocks and general abuse. The only thing I an aware of as far as moldboard differences I haven't come across different ones for sod vs previous tilled soil. Some plows have a "tail" on the moldboard to help finish turning over fresh plowed sod. Disking before plowing is a good waste of fuel from my experience. We had "trash covers" attached to the frame over the moldboard. These helped cover the old cornstalks. Misaligned coulters would cause clogging even on previously tilled cornfields, don't even mention our clay based sod without fine tuning the plows especially the coulters, new plow shares also help tremendously on sod. With worn shares the plows wouldn't stay in the ground, plugged frequently and pulled harder in clay.

 

[Egon]

http://open-furrow.soil.ncsu.edu/Documents/DHC/The Moldboard Plow.pdf

mouldboard types

 

[Ford850]

Even with properly aligned coulters, if they are worn too much you won't be cutting the roots to the depth you need. You can get by with worn coulters on previous years crop residue, but not deep rooted sod that is decades old. Make sure they are cutting deep enough.

 

[allen in texas]

http://open-furrow.soil.ncsu.edu/Documents/DHC/The Moldboard Plow.pdf

mouldboard types

That is one of the best articles I have ever seen on plowing.

 

[TurkeyHerder]

All good information. Thanks. I have attached a picture of the plow that is giving me problems. It is a John Deere 2x14. The field I am referring too was covered in poison oak, which has created a network of vines under the ground. I killed most of it off by brush hogging sever months prior to plowing but the vines are still present. They bunch up so bad that I have to use the tractor痴 loader to move them off the field in some cases. I think the plowing process will get easier each year, as the roots are pulled apart. I planted medium red clover in the field in an attempt to smother out the remaining oak. It seems to be working, but I plan on plowing it under again next spring. I will put new coulters on it first.

 

[TomSeller]

Turkeyherder,
Not seeing picture

 

[nybirdman]

When I break new ground that had been covered with brush....I used a single bottom(middle buster) worked a lot better than a two bottom.I know ,takes time but will do the job.After the first year ,your two bottom can be used.