ROP light addition

[BigGary]

When I bought my 4320 I had the dealer install the rear facing lights because they looked OK in the pictures.
Now that I got the machine I would like to do two things with these lights.One is to move tham higher up on the ROP where thay will do more good and second is to add two more facing forward. There are several ways to mount these lights without drilling or welding to the ROP and that dosnt concern me. the issue is the dealer tells me that each light is figured at 4 AMPS and will the curcuit be able to handle four lights after I splice the two additional JD lights on?
If not are there lights that will do the job that draw less than 4 AMPS?

 

[Bob_Skurka]

You can use 35 watt lamps instead of 55 watt units, less watts = less amps but also less light output. I forget the calculation that converts to AMPS but I'm sure someone here can post that so you can figure out the exact draw. The question I have is how many lights are you going to run at the same time? If you are running the 2 forward lights, you probably will also run the regular tractor headlights, for a total of 4 lights. That is the same as running 2 rear facing lights and the headlights, again a total of 4. Now if you plan on running the front facing ROPS lights, and the rear facing ROPS lights AND the headlights, then you are running 6 lights that are pulling on your electrical system and your alternator (not sure what is on your tractor) may or may not be able to keep up with that. For short durations, 6 lights should be no big deal, it will draw down you battery a bit, but shouldn't be too much. For longer periods, you could get into trouble and need a larger alternator (which is typically expensive).

For what it is worth, my front facing ROPS lights I use 55 watt lights, for my rear facing ROPS lights I use 35 watt lights. Originally I put all 35 watt units up, but switched the 2 front facing lights this fall. The 35 watt units put out plenty enough light for me for rear facing tasks (I rarely am going full speed in reverse while working at night!!!) I needed more light forward so I did switch those to 55 watt units and they are brighter, but more importantly they are white, I had yellow fog lamps up there (hoped not to attract as many bugs in the summer). You can go to the PHOTOS page and pull up my photo gallery to see how I installed the lights and switches.

 

[BigGary]

Thanks for the reply.
The tractor has a 75 amp Alt. so I don't expect an issue with that. As wired, the lights all work off of one switch with multi positions. I am not sure if you are able to run the rear light circuit independant of the four headlights. I don't thik so but will need to check.I would like to stick with the lights that Deer provided as the would all match and are good and bright.
These lights would be used during after dark snow removal and only mother nature will know how often.
I hate not being able to see and have added back up lights to my pick up that I plow snow with also.
THANKS AGAIN!

 

[timb]

I think you'll be fine with your stock altenator output - that Twenty series comes with a 75-amp altenator, compared to the 40-amp stock and 55-amp optional altenators on the Ten series.

But - you could still get yourself into trouble if you try to put too much through the stock wiring harness, switches, or relays.

AMPS = WATTS/VOLTS - I always use 12 volts in the calc - although your tractor is probably actually running around 13.5 volts ( gives you some safety margin). So, one 55w light is drawing about 4.6 amps. A 35w light draws 2.9 amps. In the end, the total difference between four 55w bulbs and four 35w bulbs is only going to be 6.6 amps. Your altenator won't care. You'll just have to cypher out how your wiring harness is set up and watch your swiches, relays, and total wiring load.

 

[BigGary]

Thans!
Good info.

 

[texastomtom]

I have a 4720
it has the stock headlights
2 forward facing rops mounted - ( john deere spec for this tractor ) I have the brush guard option around my warning/turn lights which factory holes on top for mounting lights - My forward facing lights are mounted there.

2 rear facing rops mounted ( john deere spec for this tractor )
I got the lights that are listed on the john deere build your own under 4720 - should be the same as 4320.

I got all this with the tractor originally, dealer installed.
I hope it has no problem - so far I have not had any problem and the dealer didn't mention anything about overload.


Yes it is a 75 amp alternator - same on the 4320.

I honestly have not ran them for over maybe an hour at one time.

How you liking your 4320 - I sure like my twenty series....
/forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[texastomtom]

I have a 4720
it has the stock headlights
2 forward facing rops mounted - ( john deere spec for this tractor ) I have the brush guard option around my warning/turn lights which have factory holes on top for mounting lights - My forward facing lights are mounted there.

2 rear facing rops mounted ( john deere spec for this tractor )
I got the lights that are listed on the john deere build your own under 4720 - should be the same as 4320.

I got all this with the tractor originally, dealer installed.
I hope it has no problem - so far I have not had any problem and the dealer didn't mention anything about overload.


Yes it is a 75 amp alternator - same on the 4320.

I honestly have not ran them for over maybe an hour at one time.

They way the factory dash control works - the only way to use the field lights is ALL lights on (without warning flashers)

Or Warning with the front two headlights (front of tractor)

Or just warning flashers

I think I am remember that right.

I do know there is no option (with factory switch) to run just rear or just forward rops.

Does that make sense - If you have any questions feel free to ask -- since I have the exact option your interested in....


tom
How you liking your 4320 - I sure like my twenty series....
/forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[kiphorn]

I'm in the process of adding some lights to my ROPs. Right now I'm only adding one light that I will wire direct to the battery. What size fuse do I need to put into the circuit? The light is 50 watts and 4 amps.

Thanks
Kip

 

[BB_TX]

The fuse size is not particularly important with a couple exceptions. One, it obviously should be sized a little higher than the expected load. You are really only protecting from a short, not protecting some delicate instrument. In this case it could be 5, 8, or even 10 amps. Second, the wire should be sized according to the fuse. You don't want the wire to act like a fuse. But an unbundled 18 ga wire will carry up to 15 amps, a 20 ga wire up to 10 amps, so that should not be a problem. I generally oversize my wires by a gauge size or 2.