Rops lights --- again

C6rider · Jan 27, 2009

OK, I've read most of the old threads on this but can't find what I read a long time ago that would have answered this.
I know there are a pair of wires under the left rear that are taped apparently for the BX work light. My question in 2 parts is 1. are they really for the work light and 2. are they controlled by the headlight switch or are they hot whenever the key is on?
Anyone know?
I bought a $6.99 mag base and a cheapie 55w worklight and want to try them out. We're due for 10 to 16" tonight into tomorrow.

rdsaustintx · Jan 27, 2009

C6rider said:
OK, I've read most of the old threads on this but can't find what I read a long time ago that would have answered this.
I know there are a pair of wires under the left rear that are taped apparently for the BX work light. My question in 2 parts is 1. are they really for the work light and 2. are they controlled by the headlight switch or are they hot whenever the key is on?
Anyone know?
I bought a $6.99 mag base and a cheapie 55w worklight and want to try them out. We're due for 10 to 16" tonight into tomorrow.

The ones on my BX23 were behind the left taillight. They work off the headlight switch.

crossfire190 · Jan 28, 2009

On the BX2350 - they are hot when key is on - you must add your own switches.

CHDinCT · Jan 28, 2009

crossfire190 said:
On the BX2350 - they are hot when key is on - you must add your own switches.

Same on the BX1860. My wires were tapped right under the top link bracket. I posted on another board asking if the circuit was protected by a fuse and the answer I got from a BX23 owner is that the rear work light is connected to the same circuit as the engine stop solenoid and is protected by a 20 amp fuse. The risk here is if the rear work light shorts and blows the fuse, you will not be able to shut off your engine. So, I added a 10 amp in-line fuse right after the OEM wiring and before I wired up the rear work light. I'm assuming that if it shorts between the in-line fuse and the light, the 10 amp will blow first and save my 20 amp from going too. Well, that's the theory anyway. Also, I made the assumption that my BX1860 was wired the same as the BX23 - can't see where a 10 amp fuse would hurt anyway.

Edit: re-reading rd's response on his BX23 calls into question my assumption on the BX1860 being wired the same as the BX23. Still doesn't mean you shouldn't add a separate fuse.

travkarjef · Jan 28, 2009

c6rider, I hooked my Wal-Mart $11.99 worklight up by running a wire from the battery with inline fuse back to ROPS and used a toggle switch. Works great for under $20 bucks and took a little over an hour.

C6rider · Jan 28, 2009

Thanks guys, I was hoping it was on the lighting circuit. Looks like snow's about over here. I'll play with it tomorrow after I clean up from the plows.

weedpharma · Jan 29, 2009

CHDinCT said:
Same on the BX1860. The risk here is if the rear work light shorts and blows the fuse, you will not be able to shut off your engine.

Normally the circuit would be "fail safe". Therefore the power to the engine stop solenoid is on the solenoid to hold it un killed. When power is removed, the solenoid closes and stops the fuel flow.

This of course does not remove the usefulness of a second lower rated fuse.

Weedpharma

C6rider · Feb 8, 2009

OK just for those wondering, the rear work light plugs taped near the toplink are hot when the key is on, at least on my BX24 purchased in March 08. So a separate switch (and inline fuse) should be used.

LBrown59 · Feb 8, 2009

C6rider said:
OK just for those wondering, the rear work light plugs taped near the toplink are hot when the key is on, at least on my BX24 purchased in March 08. So a separate switch (and inline fuse) should be used.

I'd still power up to
work light plugs .