RTV1100 - 2 Mechanical Questions

Cthulhu · Aug 8, 2010

Hello!

I'm new to the board, so I'm hoping I'm asking the right forum. I searched but couldn't find much on this issue...

We've acquired 4 Kubota RTV1100's.. don't ask, long story. Anyhow, we have 2 units with issues that I just need some advice on.

Unit #1 - Oil Leak @ Main Shaft Bearing. From what I can tell, this is a 'pull the whole engine out to fix'. Is there a source of DIY articles online for the RTV1100s? Is there an easier way? Can you get a 'haynes manual' for these things? Can one drive the unit with a small leak (1 drop every 3-5 seconds while running)

Unit #2 - Does not turn over when trying to start. It only clicks. We've checked the starter relay fuse, its good. Battery is good too (it works in another unit) Do the starters fail often on these units?

I lied, I have a 3rd question..

#3 - Is there a box hydraulic bypass on these? I read the manual and didn't see anything. IE, in the one that doesn't start, if we need to change the starter, how do you get the box up?

Sorry if these are newb questions... We don't have a Kubota dealership to support us, the units have no warranty (They were used on an industrial site) and we are taking them on as a project. We haven't even taken posession of the 4th one.

DIXIEDOG · Aug 8, 2010

Can't help you on most of your questions but I can tell you there are repair manuals available. You won't get a Haynes manual but you can order a Kubota manual, if you have no local support try Messicks...I'm pretty sure they sell the manuals online you should be able to PM them right through this site. Sounds like the factory manual would be a good investment for you, it should help you solve all these problems and more.:thumbsup:

SpudHauler · Aug 8, 2010

#3 hydraulic by-pass for box.

Not that I know of, but try moving lever ahead or down to it's lowest position, which is the float position, and then try to lift box manually.

art · Aug 8, 2010

Spud hauler did fine for an answer on three!

On #2 the starters have not been a problem but I'd clean the connections first on the starter!

On #1 as long as you add oil so you don't ruin the engine you could keep running it!

You didn't say how many hours or what type of use they had been used for.

That might answer some of your questions! We have some out with several thousand hours that we only see at the job sites and we have some that we seem to see more often because of neglect.

Cthulhu · Aug 9, 2010

Thanks for the info!

We took 2 of them out for a rip today. What a different experience they are to drive.

We've learned that the AT tires on them are the WRONG tire for our area. Muskeg and clay. They load up real bad and become nothing more than slicks.

We haven't tackled the starter yet as we were out playing today. I need to know however what's involved in changing the crank shaft seal? It seems like that's a 'pull the engine task'...

Thanks for the tip on the box release. Its heavy, but you can lift it . We noticed you have to hold it there for a moment too while the cylinder fills with fluid.

@art: They range from 450hrs to about just under 600. They were used in an oil and gas refinery in the oilsands in Northern Alberta. The problem is the operators didn't look after them, and the maintanters didn't stay on top of them for crap that broke. They became a liability so the company unloaded them. My uncle decided to acquire 4 of them.

Thanks again for all your help.

SpudHauler · Aug 9, 2010

If the hyd. pump continues to not work, just unhook the cylinder at the box and it will be much easier to lift.
Or, remove the lines at the rear, remove the quick connects to the cylinder and drain out the fluid. Leave connectors off until problems get fixed.

SpudHauler · Aug 9, 2010

Oh, and there should be a metal piece of channel that fits over the cylinder rod to hold it up as a safety measure. It sits on the driver side frame rail right above the hydraulic filter. Usually attached to other frame member with a small piece of wire cable.