What follows are my initial impressions after a few hours operation on my new RTV500. I bought the orange worksite base model. I selected the RTV500 almost entirely through a process of eliminating UTVs that did not meet my requirements. I was primed to buy the Kioti Mechron over the Kubota RTV500 until I tried calling Kioti. That particular occurrence is described in this thread.
My main must have requirements were under $10K, no or very low gasoline consumption, open rear differential, ability to handle steep grades safely, full manual control of 4WD and differential lock, and or course, not junk. The only models that met those requirements to my satisfaction were the Mechron at slightly over my $10K limit and the RTV500. When Kioti took themselves out of the picture, that left the RTV500.
The worksite tires are part of the base price (there are four base prices). The only option is a dealer installed factory top.
-Body-
The body, not including the bed, is 100% plastic. Most of it can be deflected with a push of the hand. This is no tank.
The hood, tailgate, and decorative dump bed side panels are shiny orange. Everything else is flat black. Obviously, most of it can't rust, but I'm not sure how it would do if it had to sit outside 24/7. I have no idea what kind of UV protection is in the plastic. As far as damage potential goes, I can only guess that mild impacts probably won't do much more than scratch it, while serious knocks may break it. Hopefully, I will never find out.
The hood is hinged at the rear and held down with an automotive style latch in front. There is a hood prop to hold it open. In my opinion, the prop could have been a bit longer.
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-Dump Bed-
The manual dump bed is steel and seems well constructed with good paint. I mention the paint because a couple of other brands I looked at had rust spots in the bed on brand new models that sat outdoors. It is relatively easy to tip while empty, but I haven't tried to tip any loads yet, so I can't comment on that aspect.
There are over center bed latches and tipping handles on both sides. It would have been nice to have interconnected spring latches instead, so that the bed could simply be tipped from the driver's side, or better yet, either side. Having to deal with two latches on opposite sides of the machine invites forgetfullness or just plain sloppiness. I noticed a number of RTVs of various sizes running around in service at a large Kubota dealership. Virtually all of them had one or both sides of the bed unlatched while in use.
The tail gate pivots on two mounts, each held on with a pair of bolts. It looks like it could be removed without too much difficulty. It has automatic spring latches on both sides, plus plastic interference pieces that provide a friction hold, presumably to stop the gate from rattling. Just pushing it closed latches it. It is a little stiff to open and close because of the interference pieces, but I expect that will change some as they wear. While I like the spring latch set up much better than the common over center latches that are on most brands, I have to say that it is impossible to open the gate if you don't have full simultaneous use of both hands and the strength to tug it open. A disabled person may have problems because of this.
The interference pieces can be removed by pulling them off. That lessens the tug required, but you still need both hands at the same time to open the gate. A center operated latch, a la pickup truck, would be a better way to do it.
The tailgate has cable stops that keep it level when open. The cables can be disconnected from their bed attachment point to drop the gate straight down. The attachment point consists of a pin in the center of a slotted keeper. The cable end fits over the pin. It has to be rotated up with the gate held in a partially raised position in order to slip the end out of the keeper via the slot. It's rather a clever arrangement. The center pin is drilled for a safety clip for added security if desired, but no clip is provided.
The bed pivots are located at the very end of the top frame. A double nutted bolt is used on each side. There are also two rubber bumpers on each side that rest on the frame top rails when the bed is down. Bed removal should entail no more than removing the two bolts, disconnecting the bed wiring harness from the the main harness, and lifting it off. The rear fenders and taillights come of with the bed, so they will need to be removed first, unless a support stand is set up ahead of time to accommodate the bed with fenders and taillights attached.
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-Seating-
The seat is a medium firm contoured bench with a separate backrest. The backrest is at a good angle for me. Not everything I test drove had the backrest properly angled. Most of the middle part of the seat is cut away to allow for the emergency brake. It's definitely a two seater. The seat is pin hinged on its forward edge to allow access to the engine, battery, and what not below. The pins and seat are removable. Snap on rubber flaps cover access holes to the workings below the seat area body structure.
There are seat belts for the two passengers. The belt retractors and latches are mounted on very stiff swivels just above seat height. They make it difficult to lift the seat, as you must first move the retractors and latches out of the way. On the bright side, you don't have to fight the seat belts in order to get the seat back in. The swivels can probably be loosened a bit to make things a bit easier. I'm reporting things as I found them.
-Storage-
There is virtually none standard. There is a really-open-to-the-elements "glove box" on the passenger side, obviously not weatherproof. It even has weep holes. A clip arrangement underneath the dash holds the owners manual, which comes with a huge wrap around plastic cover, presumably to keep it dry when its in the clips. There is no storage under the front cubby, except for a small optional, oddly shaped, drop in plastic Front Accessory Box, as Kubota calls it, which at $151 MSRP seems grossly over priced. I didn't bother.
There are two cup holders, both on the passenger side. I guess that's a good thing if your rider is a two fisted drinker. Unfortunately, the cup holders are not adjustable and are too small to hold a 12 oz cold drink can in anything but the slimmest of sock style cozies. Forget them holding most insulated coffee mugs.
The holders are directly in front of the downward slanted "glove box" putting its contents at high risk of a drenching if the operator hits a significant bump with a full drink cup(s). The holders do come out of the dash for washing. leaving slightly larger holes in their wake. A can in one of the Coleman style thin foamed plastic cozies can be crammed into one of these holes, but its a friction fit. Bottom line, the drink holders and glove box really, really suck.
With the Mule available as a long term example of how to work in good storage and locate drink holders in a UTV, I don't understand why Kubota didn't follow suit.
-Chassis-
Unlike the bigger RTVs, the RTV500 has a fixed rear axle, so no half shafts in the rear. The differential is in the transmission case making the engine, transmission, and rear end a single unit. This entire unit is mounted to a lower frame, known as the transmission frame, that pivots on the main frame just in front of the seat backs. The rear half of the assembly simply rides on the ground via the rear wheels and tires. That makes the engine/transmission/rear end only partially sprung. Much of it is unsprung weight.
View attachment 278158
It actually reminds me of my Vepa motor scooter I had as a kid. It has the same sort of construction. The Vespa had a better ride, though.
The rear suspension is coil over shock. A large part of its job is handling the bed loads.The shocks are adjustable for this. The manual instructs the operator to adjust them using "the hook wrench." Unfortunately, it doesn't say where to find "the hook wrench." It doesn't come with the machine and no part number or size is given. Few Kubota parts sites list a hook wrench. Those that do don't say what it is for or if it will fit the RTV500. This kind of omission is unacceptable from a company the size of Kubota.
The rear suspension has very little travel. There is only 1 1/2 inches travel to a compressible bump stop. The bump stop appears to be able to compress an additonal inch, perhaps a tiny bit more, for a total of 2 1/2 to 2 3/4 inches travel. See photo.
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Front suspension is MacPherson strut.
Limiting ground clearance is the rear engine skid plate at 6.5 inches by my measurement. Claimed is 6.9 at the rear axle. Most of the critical bits seem fairly well protected, but there is one major component that is vulnerable in the right circumstances. If the operator foolishly decides to try climbing over a log larger than 11 inches in diameter or manages to hit something similar in the woods, he may do severe damage. The mid point chassis clearance is 12 inches, but the front driveshaft hangs down a inch below that. It looks very exposed in that situation. High centering on the driveshaft is not a good thing.
This is just an example how damage can occur. It doesn't mean the machine is capable of climbing over anything less than 11 inches high. It can't. The limit is just under seven because of a low point ahead of the rear wheels.
-Brakes And Wheels-
The brakes are four wheel dry discs that appear to be large enough for the relatively light weight of the machine. I have not had any opportunity to seriously test them, but they do require a lot of pedal pressure. With all the engine braking available from the hydrostat, I probably never will.
The cable operated parking brake is controlled by a lever sticking out from under the center notch in the middle of the seat. It works fine and is well located. A couple of the other brands have them on the operator's left, where they can be accidentally bumped (and possibly released) by external activities. This is much better.
The wheels mount on four bolt hubs. The RTV500 uses tapered wheel bolts, not lug nuts and studs. This makes mounting a wheel a real pain, compared to lug nuts and studs. Wheel bolts can be difficult to find if you need one for any reason.
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-Controls-
The 2WD/4WD selector, F-R-N-L selector, and differential lock are steel levers in a steel shift gate in the center of the dash. It is difficult to move any of these without noisily banging a lever into the gate, which acts as the stop and/or catch, or having the lever slide metal on metal. I drove a used model with 400 hours on it during my search. All of its shift gate edges had rust on them, which bled onto the gate surface a bit. I expect that to happen on my unit. In my opinion, it's a poor design.
The brake and accelerator pedals are offset well to the right of the steering wheel's center line. They are far enough to the right that some people may find the driving position uncomfortable. Kubota refers to the accelerator as the Speed Control Pedal. That is a more accurate term, although the pedal does not directly control vehicle speed.
-Steering-
The steering wheel is fairly small, but not overly so. It is comfortable to hold. The turning circle diameter is acceptable, and the steering effort is reasonable, but fast it isn't. You have to crank a lot to make tight turns. Like every UTV I drove, the steering feels very imprecise with perceptible wander compared to highway vehicles. There is no power assist, and it really doesn't need it.
-Instruments-
What instruments? OK, it's not quite that bad, but it's close. There is nothing on the dash to indicate the fuel level. The fuel gauge is mounted in the tank and cannot be seen from the driving position. In fact, you have to stand a bit off from the machine in order to see it at all, otherwise you have to lift up the seat to read it. If it's dark out, you better have a flashlight.
There is a temperature gauge on the left side of the dash. The scale is white with a small red section on the far right. Kubota describes the while as "cool" and the red as "hot." There seems to be no defined normal position. The gauge barely gets into the white during normal operation. I much prefer a gauge that reads on center during normal operation. That way, it's easy to tell at a glance if the temperature is normal.
The upper center of the dash contains the Easy Checker(TM). Yes, Kubota has trademarked a simple group of four ordinary warning lights: Brake, Check Engine, Oil Pressure, and Battery Discharge. It uses socketed bulbs, not LEDs.
There is also an hour meter. Like most all of today's power equipment, the hour meter is electric and is controlled by the ignition switch, which means it can accumulate time if the switch gets left on for some reason, an easy thing to do. An hour meter that only runs when the engine is running would be much better. On a positive note, the hour meter makes an audible click about once a second, which can serve as a warning that the switch has been left on, if someone is close enough to hear it. I plan on a mod to slave the hour meter to the engine, so that the meter only accumulates time when it is running. Kubota should have done that in the first place.
A speedometer is optional. There is a pop out in the dash to accomodate it.
-Towing-
The RV500 has built in 2" receivers front and rear. Unlike some other UTVs, both are included in the base unit, instead of being extra cost options. Oddly, none of the RTV500 literature I have seen even mentions them. The extra cost hitch mentioned in the literature is apparently a ball mount or pin hitch of some sort.
The front receiver is built into the front bumper/frame. Getting the hitch pin in place to secure the ball mount requires reaching up under the bumper in a blind spot. It's a bit tricky, but not a big deal. The rear receiver is built into the end of the frame. It is easy to use but has very limited depth, just four inches. There is a hair less than two inches from the edge of the hitch pin hole to inside end of the receiver. I have a number of 2" ball mounts, none of which were short enough to work. The means that owners have to whack the inside end off of a ball mount to make it fit the RTV500, limiting its usefulness in other applications due to the reduced bearing surface. An owner planning on towing a number of different trailers requiring varying ball heights may have to acquire several new mounts decicated just for use with the RTV, instead of being able to use those he already has.
Towing limits are 1100 lbs rolling weight rear and 550 lbs rolling weight front. Maximum tongue weight is 110 lbs front and rear.
The RTV500 itself cannot be towed. I assume the hydrostatic transmission would be damaged by towing. There are no explicit warnings in the manual, just a simple statement that it can't be towed in the "Transporting" section of the manual.
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-Engine-
The engine is a small electronically controlled fuel injected horizontal shaft 458 cc parallel twin located partially under and immediately behind the seat area . It is hard to tell where the engine stops and the hyrdo begins at a casual glance. The entire thing looks like it was designed as a unit. It is quite impressive. The fuel pump is in the tank located under the driver's seat, and the well shielded muffler is under the seat. The rest of the exhaust, which includes a catalytic converter and USDA approved spark arrestor runs down the center right of the machine, exhausting at the rear.
Considering the $400+ parts alone replacement cost for the muffler, I'm glad that it is mounted very close to the engine. That will keep it as hot as possible, minimizing corrosion from condensate during the inevitable short engine run operation that is bound to occur. It will be even better if it turns out to be constructed of stainless steel. At this point, I don't know if it is or not. I am assuming not, due to the expense.
The engine has a seemingly well thought out mid height snorkel air intake. I say seemingly because I don't have enough time on the machine to determine if Kubota located the intake in a dust attracting negative pressure area, like they did on the RTV900s. Hopefully, they didn't.
The air entry horn is inverted to keep out moisture and has a coarse foam filter to keep the bugs out. The entry horn is located mid level between the driver's seat and bed. An air tube runs from there to the rear of the machine and enters a sealed air filter housing. From there it runs to the throttle body on the rear of the engine. The filter housing contains two air filters. The first is the regular filter. The second is an emergency filter that comes into play only if the first filter clogs. Being Kubota filters, they aren't cheap.
There is an electronics/fuse module also under the driver's side of the seat. It has its own small cooling fan. I have not yet determined how the fan is controlled. It may just come on with the radiator fan. It does not run continuously.
The radiator is mounted up under the passenger seat facing the side of the machine. It is well protected in that location. It is accessible with the seat raised, and is equipped with a protective screen. A small additional access panel is provide on the side of the machine. An electric fan comes on periodically to provide cooling air. The radiator's position precludes forward movement from providing any significant air flow to the radiator, so the fan operates frequently. Unfortunately, the fan is hardly quiet. It runs for 10 seconds at start up for diagnostic purposes.
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-Electrical-
The alternator is a small Denso brand belt driven internally regulated automotive type, model number EG673-84201. It appears to be recently changed from the model used on older RTV500s. I was unable to find any specifications for this model, but I estimate its output to be around 20-25 amps. The drive belt is fully shrouded. The under seat mounted sealed group 26R automotive style battery is rated at 450 CCA, which should be large enough even if a winch is added.
Lighting consists of a pair of smallish single filament headlights, standard tail lights and brake lights. Turn signals and a hazard warning light can be fitted by purchasing an optional kit. The small, very cheap feeling rotary light switch has only two positions, Off and Headlights, although it is marked for three, Parking Lights, Off, and Headlights. I imagine more than one these cheesy switches has been broken by an owner trying to force it into the Parking Lights position, a $47 plus labor mistake. The light switch actually rotates around the horn button, officially making it a "Combination Switch." It's a frequently ordered part on one of the Kubota parts web sites.
The brake lights and horn work regardless of ignition switch position. The headlights and taillights only work if the ignition is on.
There is a fully populated 10 position fuse box, plus an addition two large slow blow fuses in a separate box. Or or two of the fuses appear to be available for accessory use. Confirmation will have to await the arrival of a Service Manual.
-Start Up-
The machine will not start in gear, so it has to be placed in neutral before starting, even if the operators foot is on the brake. I may look into changing it so that the brake is the interlock. When the machine is switched on, the fuel pump immediately starts up to build pressure for the injection system. It's noisy enough on my machine that I have concerns regarding its health. The engine fires immediately when the key is turned to the start position and usually settles down to a smooth but rather fast idle. Occasionally, the idle will have a mild surge. A couple of seconds later, the radiator and electronics fans come on and run for 10 seconds then shut off. Nothing seems to preclude switching on and immediately starting and driving off while all this stuff is going on, as long as the machine is warmed up or the weather is mild.
Cold weather operation requires a warm up period, which varies on the actual temperature. There is a chart in the manual, which calls for a 5 minute warm up at 32F "and above." Below 32F, the required warm up periods get rather lengthy. It would be nice to know at what ambient temperature the warm up period no longer applies, but no information is given. Surely a 5 minute warm up can't be required in mid summer.
-Operation-
All the other UTVs I test drove required quite a bit of throttle before the clutch would engage and the machine would start to move. The RTV500 is no different, despite having a hydrostatic transmission. I assume it was a design decision by Kubota. It is real easy for a novice or infrequent operator to start out with a jerk because of this. I find it a bit bothersome, since it was probably needless. It is not helped by the heavy throttle pressure required. The springing on the go pedal is very high and, for me, uncomfortable. I will be looking for a way to safely lower the pressure.
The accelerator (Speed Control) is connected to a hydraulic servo and the engine's throttle body via a series of links, bellcranks, and cables. Lots of springs and a damper assembly are involved. The servo actually controls the hydrostatic transmission by sensing the load and is aware of the pedal position. That in turn controls road speed. The engine speed is more or less controlled directly by the pedal. A governor is involved, but it isn't immediately clear how it operates. Kubota calls full up pedal neutral. I believe this neutral, as opposed to the transmission's neutral, is achieved by opening a bypass valve in the hydro. It seems to go away once the machine starts moving. Simply letting up on the Speed Control does not restore the neutral, but pressing the brake pedal with the machine stopped does. I had more than two hours on the machine before I discovered this facet of the RTV500. The manual doesn't mention it.
The Speed Control pedal is used to accelerate, cruise, and slow down. The brakes are not needed at all, except to hold the machine in position when stopped. Sudden letting up on the Speed Control results in a very rapid stop. A stopped machine barely creeps downhill if the the brake isn't used to hold it.
When the machine comes to an upgrade, it slows if the pedal is held steady as the servo adjusts the hydro's effective ratio in order to compensate for the increased internal pressure. The engine RPM stays the same, unless the pedal is depressed further. So far, I have not encountered any inability to climb in high range as was frequently reported with earlier models. Apparently, Kubota is now getting the system adjusted properly at the factory. I haven't needed low range for anything yet, but I really haven't loaded the machine down either.
The F-R-N-L selector balks at going into gear occasionaly. When that happens, it usually requires revving up and moving a bit in the last used gear before slipping into the new gear. The manual warns against forcing it.
The manual and some warning labels warn against shifting to 4WD or engaging the differential lock with the machine moving. Others warn against doing so at high speed, implying that it is otherwise OK. I have never had any four wheel drive that couldn't be engaged while the vehicle is moving (with front hubs locked, of course), or even one that warned against it. Except in cases of stupidity, such as engaging 4WD or the differential lock during wheel spin, I can see no reason not to engage them while moving in order to be ready for the terrain coming up. I have tried it gently a few times with no problem.
The ride isn't awful is the best way to put it, but it's not all that good either. I knew that going in, but it doesn't make it all that much more palatable.
-Nighttime Operation-
The 27 watt headlights illuminate the area directly in front of the machine, but don't do much for the distance. You definitely can't light up the neighbors over on the next ridge enjoying themselves in their hot tub after dark. The headlights are best described as wimpy.
The temperature gauge is illuminated, but it's pretty dim, even in full darkness. Operating the shift gate controls has to be done by feel and memory. Backing up in the dark is an adventure, as the taillights provide little help. A backup light would have been a nice. A rear facing work light is a must. I plan to add one.
-Noise Level-
A lot of posts on the forum cite the RTV500 as one of the quiet ones. It's true. Sitting its assigned spot in the garage, it doesn't make a sound. Operating it is another thing altogether.
I will be the first to agree that the engine itself is quiet, but plenty of other stuff makes noise. The cooling fan is just plain loud. So is the fuel pump when it starts up. The hydro whines loudly, and resonant rattles come and go depending on the load on the drive train and roughness of the surface being operated on. You can talk over it, but you certainly aren't going to sneak up on anyone. Not being able to compare machines directly against one another makes it a judgment call, but I would rate the Mules quieter, with the RTV500 about on a par with the diesel powered Mechron. The Mechron's engine may go a little higher on a sound meter, but the hydro whine and tinny resonance rattles that come out of the RTV500 peak the annoyance meter well above the Mechron reading.
The hydro whine may abate some as it breaks in, and hopefully I can locate and deal with the resonance rattles, so things may get better, but right now I consider the RTV500 noisy.
-Manual-
The Operators (Owners) Manual is fairly comprehensive, including routine maintenance instructions, but there are some omissions. The manual is large format, 78 pages, and entirely in English. Multiple languages are not crammed into the same book. The manual appears to be written by Kubota's Japanese employees without a native English speaker's input, Still, it is mostly well done, with an occasional side splitting paragraph here and there. For example,
"If should drink antifreeze, throw up at once and take medical attention."
None of that effete induce vomiting terminology here. No Sir, just throw up. Immediately!
In addition to the manual, there are 20 plus warning/operating labels plastered all over the place. That's an absurd number. Some of them provide conflicting information. Some of them are simply duplicates. For example, the operator and passenger each get a separate seat belt warning label. You'd think this thing was a kiddie toy.
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-Serviceability-
I do all my own maintenance. I like my oil filters vertically mounted, open end up. I like my hydraulic filters the same way, but high up, which usually means remote mounts. I would rather bleed air out of a hydraulic system than wear hydraulic fluid any day. Kubota, of course, saw fit to mount the hydraulic filters (two of them) low and the oil filter slightly above horizontal. Ugh! Since I haven't actually done a service yet, I can't say exactly how its going to go, but I'm not looking forward to it.
I have a Service Manual on the way.
-Conclusion-
I'm not in love with it, but it appears it will do, unless fuel consumption turns out to be higher than anticipated. I don't have enough time on it to make that call yet.
Updates as time and circumstance warrant.
Misfire
My main must have requirements were under $10K, no or very low gasoline consumption, open rear differential, ability to handle steep grades safely, full manual control of 4WD and differential lock, and or course, not junk. The only models that met those requirements to my satisfaction were the Mechron at slightly over my $10K limit and the RTV500. When Kioti took themselves out of the picture, that left the RTV500.
The worksite tires are part of the base price (there are four base prices). The only option is a dealer installed factory top.
-Body-
The body, not including the bed, is 100% plastic. Most of it can be deflected with a push of the hand. This is no tank.
The hood, tailgate, and decorative dump bed side panels are shiny orange. Everything else is flat black. Obviously, most of it can't rust, but I'm not sure how it would do if it had to sit outside 24/7. I have no idea what kind of UV protection is in the plastic. As far as damage potential goes, I can only guess that mild impacts probably won't do much more than scratch it, while serious knocks may break it. Hopefully, I will never find out.
The hood is hinged at the rear and held down with an automotive style latch in front. There is a hood prop to hold it open. In my opinion, the prop could have been a bit longer.
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-Dump Bed-
The manual dump bed is steel and seems well constructed with good paint. I mention the paint because a couple of other brands I looked at had rust spots in the bed on brand new models that sat outdoors. It is relatively easy to tip while empty, but I haven't tried to tip any loads yet, so I can't comment on that aspect.
There are over center bed latches and tipping handles on both sides. It would have been nice to have interconnected spring latches instead, so that the bed could simply be tipped from the driver's side, or better yet, either side. Having to deal with two latches on opposite sides of the machine invites forgetfullness or just plain sloppiness. I noticed a number of RTVs of various sizes running around in service at a large Kubota dealership. Virtually all of them had one or both sides of the bed unlatched while in use.
The tail gate pivots on two mounts, each held on with a pair of bolts. It looks like it could be removed without too much difficulty. It has automatic spring latches on both sides, plus plastic interference pieces that provide a friction hold, presumably to stop the gate from rattling. Just pushing it closed latches it. It is a little stiff to open and close because of the interference pieces, but I expect that will change some as they wear. While I like the spring latch set up much better than the common over center latches that are on most brands, I have to say that it is impossible to open the gate if you don't have full simultaneous use of both hands and the strength to tug it open. A disabled person may have problems because of this.
The interference pieces can be removed by pulling them off. That lessens the tug required, but you still need both hands at the same time to open the gate. A center operated latch, a la pickup truck, would be a better way to do it.
The tailgate has cable stops that keep it level when open. The cables can be disconnected from their bed attachment point to drop the gate straight down. The attachment point consists of a pin in the center of a slotted keeper. The cable end fits over the pin. It has to be rotated up with the gate held in a partially raised position in order to slip the end out of the keeper via the slot. It's rather a clever arrangement. The center pin is drilled for a safety clip for added security if desired, but no clip is provided.
The bed pivots are located at the very end of the top frame. A double nutted bolt is used on each side. There are also two rubber bumpers on each side that rest on the frame top rails when the bed is down. Bed removal should entail no more than removing the two bolts, disconnecting the bed wiring harness from the the main harness, and lifting it off. The rear fenders and taillights come of with the bed, so they will need to be removed first, unless a support stand is set up ahead of time to accommodate the bed with fenders and taillights attached.
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-Seating-
The seat is a medium firm contoured bench with a separate backrest. The backrest is at a good angle for me. Not everything I test drove had the backrest properly angled. Most of the middle part of the seat is cut away to allow for the emergency brake. It's definitely a two seater. The seat is pin hinged on its forward edge to allow access to the engine, battery, and what not below. The pins and seat are removable. Snap on rubber flaps cover access holes to the workings below the seat area body structure.
There are seat belts for the two passengers. The belt retractors and latches are mounted on very stiff swivels just above seat height. They make it difficult to lift the seat, as you must first move the retractors and latches out of the way. On the bright side, you don't have to fight the seat belts in order to get the seat back in. The swivels can probably be loosened a bit to make things a bit easier. I'm reporting things as I found them.
-Storage-
There is virtually none standard. There is a really-open-to-the-elements "glove box" on the passenger side, obviously not weatherproof. It even has weep holes. A clip arrangement underneath the dash holds the owners manual, which comes with a huge wrap around plastic cover, presumably to keep it dry when its in the clips. There is no storage under the front cubby, except for a small optional, oddly shaped, drop in plastic Front Accessory Box, as Kubota calls it, which at $151 MSRP seems grossly over priced. I didn't bother.
There are two cup holders, both on the passenger side. I guess that's a good thing if your rider is a two fisted drinker. Unfortunately, the cup holders are not adjustable and are too small to hold a 12 oz cold drink can in anything but the slimmest of sock style cozies. Forget them holding most insulated coffee mugs.
The holders are directly in front of the downward slanted "glove box" putting its contents at high risk of a drenching if the operator hits a significant bump with a full drink cup(s). The holders do come out of the dash for washing. leaving slightly larger holes in their wake. A can in one of the Coleman style thin foamed plastic cozies can be crammed into one of these holes, but its a friction fit. Bottom line, the drink holders and glove box really, really suck.
With the Mule available as a long term example of how to work in good storage and locate drink holders in a UTV, I don't understand why Kubota didn't follow suit.
-Chassis-
Unlike the bigger RTVs, the RTV500 has a fixed rear axle, so no half shafts in the rear. The differential is in the transmission case making the engine, transmission, and rear end a single unit. This entire unit is mounted to a lower frame, known as the transmission frame, that pivots on the main frame just in front of the seat backs. The rear half of the assembly simply rides on the ground via the rear wheels and tires. That makes the engine/transmission/rear end only partially sprung. Much of it is unsprung weight.
View attachment 278158
It actually reminds me of my Vepa motor scooter I had as a kid. It has the same sort of construction. The Vespa had a better ride, though.
The rear suspension is coil over shock. A large part of its job is handling the bed loads.The shocks are adjustable for this. The manual instructs the operator to adjust them using "the hook wrench." Unfortunately, it doesn't say where to find "the hook wrench." It doesn't come with the machine and no part number or size is given. Few Kubota parts sites list a hook wrench. Those that do don't say what it is for or if it will fit the RTV500. This kind of omission is unacceptable from a company the size of Kubota.
The rear suspension has very little travel. There is only 1 1/2 inches travel to a compressible bump stop. The bump stop appears to be able to compress an additonal inch, perhaps a tiny bit more, for a total of 2 1/2 to 2 3/4 inches travel. See photo.
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Front suspension is MacPherson strut.
Limiting ground clearance is the rear engine skid plate at 6.5 inches by my measurement. Claimed is 6.9 at the rear axle. Most of the critical bits seem fairly well protected, but there is one major component that is vulnerable in the right circumstances. If the operator foolishly decides to try climbing over a log larger than 11 inches in diameter or manages to hit something similar in the woods, he may do severe damage. The mid point chassis clearance is 12 inches, but the front driveshaft hangs down a inch below that. It looks very exposed in that situation. High centering on the driveshaft is not a good thing.
This is just an example how damage can occur. It doesn't mean the machine is capable of climbing over anything less than 11 inches high. It can't. The limit is just under seven because of a low point ahead of the rear wheels.
-Brakes And Wheels-
The brakes are four wheel dry discs that appear to be large enough for the relatively light weight of the machine. I have not had any opportunity to seriously test them, but they do require a lot of pedal pressure. With all the engine braking available from the hydrostat, I probably never will.
The cable operated parking brake is controlled by a lever sticking out from under the center notch in the middle of the seat. It works fine and is well located. A couple of the other brands have them on the operator's left, where they can be accidentally bumped (and possibly released) by external activities. This is much better.
The wheels mount on four bolt hubs. The RTV500 uses tapered wheel bolts, not lug nuts and studs. This makes mounting a wheel a real pain, compared to lug nuts and studs. Wheel bolts can be difficult to find if you need one for any reason.
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-Controls-
The 2WD/4WD selector, F-R-N-L selector, and differential lock are steel levers in a steel shift gate in the center of the dash. It is difficult to move any of these without noisily banging a lever into the gate, which acts as the stop and/or catch, or having the lever slide metal on metal. I drove a used model with 400 hours on it during my search. All of its shift gate edges had rust on them, which bled onto the gate surface a bit. I expect that to happen on my unit. In my opinion, it's a poor design.
The brake and accelerator pedals are offset well to the right of the steering wheel's center line. They are far enough to the right that some people may find the driving position uncomfortable. Kubota refers to the accelerator as the Speed Control Pedal. That is a more accurate term, although the pedal does not directly control vehicle speed.
-Steering-
The steering wheel is fairly small, but not overly so. It is comfortable to hold. The turning circle diameter is acceptable, and the steering effort is reasonable, but fast it isn't. You have to crank a lot to make tight turns. Like every UTV I drove, the steering feels very imprecise with perceptible wander compared to highway vehicles. There is no power assist, and it really doesn't need it.
-Instruments-
What instruments? OK, it's not quite that bad, but it's close. There is nothing on the dash to indicate the fuel level. The fuel gauge is mounted in the tank and cannot be seen from the driving position. In fact, you have to stand a bit off from the machine in order to see it at all, otherwise you have to lift up the seat to read it. If it's dark out, you better have a flashlight.
There is a temperature gauge on the left side of the dash. The scale is white with a small red section on the far right. Kubota describes the while as "cool" and the red as "hot." There seems to be no defined normal position. The gauge barely gets into the white during normal operation. I much prefer a gauge that reads on center during normal operation. That way, it's easy to tell at a glance if the temperature is normal.
The upper center of the dash contains the Easy Checker(TM). Yes, Kubota has trademarked a simple group of four ordinary warning lights: Brake, Check Engine, Oil Pressure, and Battery Discharge. It uses socketed bulbs, not LEDs.
There is also an hour meter. Like most all of today's power equipment, the hour meter is electric and is controlled by the ignition switch, which means it can accumulate time if the switch gets left on for some reason, an easy thing to do. An hour meter that only runs when the engine is running would be much better. On a positive note, the hour meter makes an audible click about once a second, which can serve as a warning that the switch has been left on, if someone is close enough to hear it. I plan on a mod to slave the hour meter to the engine, so that the meter only accumulates time when it is running. Kubota should have done that in the first place.
A speedometer is optional. There is a pop out in the dash to accomodate it.
-Towing-
The RV500 has built in 2" receivers front and rear. Unlike some other UTVs, both are included in the base unit, instead of being extra cost options. Oddly, none of the RTV500 literature I have seen even mentions them. The extra cost hitch mentioned in the literature is apparently a ball mount or pin hitch of some sort.
The front receiver is built into the front bumper/frame. Getting the hitch pin in place to secure the ball mount requires reaching up under the bumper in a blind spot. It's a bit tricky, but not a big deal. The rear receiver is built into the end of the frame. It is easy to use but has very limited depth, just four inches. There is a hair less than two inches from the edge of the hitch pin hole to inside end of the receiver. I have a number of 2" ball mounts, none of which were short enough to work. The means that owners have to whack the inside end off of a ball mount to make it fit the RTV500, limiting its usefulness in other applications due to the reduced bearing surface. An owner planning on towing a number of different trailers requiring varying ball heights may have to acquire several new mounts decicated just for use with the RTV, instead of being able to use those he already has.
Towing limits are 1100 lbs rolling weight rear and 550 lbs rolling weight front. Maximum tongue weight is 110 lbs front and rear.
The RTV500 itself cannot be towed. I assume the hydrostatic transmission would be damaged by towing. There are no explicit warnings in the manual, just a simple statement that it can't be towed in the "Transporting" section of the manual.
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View attachment 278181
-Engine-
The engine is a small electronically controlled fuel injected horizontal shaft 458 cc parallel twin located partially under and immediately behind the seat area . It is hard to tell where the engine stops and the hyrdo begins at a casual glance. The entire thing looks like it was designed as a unit. It is quite impressive. The fuel pump is in the tank located under the driver's seat, and the well shielded muffler is under the seat. The rest of the exhaust, which includes a catalytic converter and USDA approved spark arrestor runs down the center right of the machine, exhausting at the rear.
Considering the $400+ parts alone replacement cost for the muffler, I'm glad that it is mounted very close to the engine. That will keep it as hot as possible, minimizing corrosion from condensate during the inevitable short engine run operation that is bound to occur. It will be even better if it turns out to be constructed of stainless steel. At this point, I don't know if it is or not. I am assuming not, due to the expense.
The engine has a seemingly well thought out mid height snorkel air intake. I say seemingly because I don't have enough time on the machine to determine if Kubota located the intake in a dust attracting negative pressure area, like they did on the RTV900s. Hopefully, they didn't.
The air entry horn is inverted to keep out moisture and has a coarse foam filter to keep the bugs out. The entry horn is located mid level between the driver's seat and bed. An air tube runs from there to the rear of the machine and enters a sealed air filter housing. From there it runs to the throttle body on the rear of the engine. The filter housing contains two air filters. The first is the regular filter. The second is an emergency filter that comes into play only if the first filter clogs. Being Kubota filters, they aren't cheap.
There is an electronics/fuse module also under the driver's side of the seat. It has its own small cooling fan. I have not yet determined how the fan is controlled. It may just come on with the radiator fan. It does not run continuously.
The radiator is mounted up under the passenger seat facing the side of the machine. It is well protected in that location. It is accessible with the seat raised, and is equipped with a protective screen. A small additional access panel is provide on the side of the machine. An electric fan comes on periodically to provide cooling air. The radiator's position precludes forward movement from providing any significant air flow to the radiator, so the fan operates frequently. Unfortunately, the fan is hardly quiet. It runs for 10 seconds at start up for diagnostic purposes.
View attachment 278187
-Electrical-
The alternator is a small Denso brand belt driven internally regulated automotive type, model number EG673-84201. It appears to be recently changed from the model used on older RTV500s. I was unable to find any specifications for this model, but I estimate its output to be around 20-25 amps. The drive belt is fully shrouded. The under seat mounted sealed group 26R automotive style battery is rated at 450 CCA, which should be large enough even if a winch is added.
Lighting consists of a pair of smallish single filament headlights, standard tail lights and brake lights. Turn signals and a hazard warning light can be fitted by purchasing an optional kit. The small, very cheap feeling rotary light switch has only two positions, Off and Headlights, although it is marked for three, Parking Lights, Off, and Headlights. I imagine more than one these cheesy switches has been broken by an owner trying to force it into the Parking Lights position, a $47 plus labor mistake. The light switch actually rotates around the horn button, officially making it a "Combination Switch." It's a frequently ordered part on one of the Kubota parts web sites.
The brake lights and horn work regardless of ignition switch position. The headlights and taillights only work if the ignition is on.
There is a fully populated 10 position fuse box, plus an addition two large slow blow fuses in a separate box. Or or two of the fuses appear to be available for accessory use. Confirmation will have to await the arrival of a Service Manual.
-Start Up-
The machine will not start in gear, so it has to be placed in neutral before starting, even if the operators foot is on the brake. I may look into changing it so that the brake is the interlock. When the machine is switched on, the fuel pump immediately starts up to build pressure for the injection system. It's noisy enough on my machine that I have concerns regarding its health. The engine fires immediately when the key is turned to the start position and usually settles down to a smooth but rather fast idle. Occasionally, the idle will have a mild surge. A couple of seconds later, the radiator and electronics fans come on and run for 10 seconds then shut off. Nothing seems to preclude switching on and immediately starting and driving off while all this stuff is going on, as long as the machine is warmed up or the weather is mild.
Cold weather operation requires a warm up period, which varies on the actual temperature. There is a chart in the manual, which calls for a 5 minute warm up at 32F "and above." Below 32F, the required warm up periods get rather lengthy. It would be nice to know at what ambient temperature the warm up period no longer applies, but no information is given. Surely a 5 minute warm up can't be required in mid summer.
-Operation-
All the other UTVs I test drove required quite a bit of throttle before the clutch would engage and the machine would start to move. The RTV500 is no different, despite having a hydrostatic transmission. I assume it was a design decision by Kubota. It is real easy for a novice or infrequent operator to start out with a jerk because of this. I find it a bit bothersome, since it was probably needless. It is not helped by the heavy throttle pressure required. The springing on the go pedal is very high and, for me, uncomfortable. I will be looking for a way to safely lower the pressure.
The accelerator (Speed Control) is connected to a hydraulic servo and the engine's throttle body via a series of links, bellcranks, and cables. Lots of springs and a damper assembly are involved. The servo actually controls the hydrostatic transmission by sensing the load and is aware of the pedal position. That in turn controls road speed. The engine speed is more or less controlled directly by the pedal. A governor is involved, but it isn't immediately clear how it operates. Kubota calls full up pedal neutral. I believe this neutral, as opposed to the transmission's neutral, is achieved by opening a bypass valve in the hydro. It seems to go away once the machine starts moving. Simply letting up on the Speed Control does not restore the neutral, but pressing the brake pedal with the machine stopped does. I had more than two hours on the machine before I discovered this facet of the RTV500. The manual doesn't mention it.
The Speed Control pedal is used to accelerate, cruise, and slow down. The brakes are not needed at all, except to hold the machine in position when stopped. Sudden letting up on the Speed Control results in a very rapid stop. A stopped machine barely creeps downhill if the the brake isn't used to hold it.
When the machine comes to an upgrade, it slows if the pedal is held steady as the servo adjusts the hydro's effective ratio in order to compensate for the increased internal pressure. The engine RPM stays the same, unless the pedal is depressed further. So far, I have not encountered any inability to climb in high range as was frequently reported with earlier models. Apparently, Kubota is now getting the system adjusted properly at the factory. I haven't needed low range for anything yet, but I really haven't loaded the machine down either.
The F-R-N-L selector balks at going into gear occasionaly. When that happens, it usually requires revving up and moving a bit in the last used gear before slipping into the new gear. The manual warns against forcing it.
The manual and some warning labels warn against shifting to 4WD or engaging the differential lock with the machine moving. Others warn against doing so at high speed, implying that it is otherwise OK. I have never had any four wheel drive that couldn't be engaged while the vehicle is moving (with front hubs locked, of course), or even one that warned against it. Except in cases of stupidity, such as engaging 4WD or the differential lock during wheel spin, I can see no reason not to engage them while moving in order to be ready for the terrain coming up. I have tried it gently a few times with no problem.
The ride isn't awful is the best way to put it, but it's not all that good either. I knew that going in, but it doesn't make it all that much more palatable.
-Nighttime Operation-
The 27 watt headlights illuminate the area directly in front of the machine, but don't do much for the distance. You definitely can't light up the neighbors over on the next ridge enjoying themselves in their hot tub after dark. The headlights are best described as wimpy.
The temperature gauge is illuminated, but it's pretty dim, even in full darkness. Operating the shift gate controls has to be done by feel and memory. Backing up in the dark is an adventure, as the taillights provide little help. A backup light would have been a nice. A rear facing work light is a must. I plan to add one.
-Noise Level-
A lot of posts on the forum cite the RTV500 as one of the quiet ones. It's true. Sitting its assigned spot in the garage, it doesn't make a sound. Operating it is another thing altogether.
I will be the first to agree that the engine itself is quiet, but plenty of other stuff makes noise. The cooling fan is just plain loud. So is the fuel pump when it starts up. The hydro whines loudly, and resonant rattles come and go depending on the load on the drive train and roughness of the surface being operated on. You can talk over it, but you certainly aren't going to sneak up on anyone. Not being able to compare machines directly against one another makes it a judgment call, but I would rate the Mules quieter, with the RTV500 about on a par with the diesel powered Mechron. The Mechron's engine may go a little higher on a sound meter, but the hydro whine and tinny resonance rattles that come out of the RTV500 peak the annoyance meter well above the Mechron reading.
The hydro whine may abate some as it breaks in, and hopefully I can locate and deal with the resonance rattles, so things may get better, but right now I consider the RTV500 noisy.
-Manual-
The Operators (Owners) Manual is fairly comprehensive, including routine maintenance instructions, but there are some omissions. The manual is large format, 78 pages, and entirely in English. Multiple languages are not crammed into the same book. The manual appears to be written by Kubota's Japanese employees without a native English speaker's input, Still, it is mostly well done, with an occasional side splitting paragraph here and there. For example,
"If should drink antifreeze, throw up at once and take medical attention."
None of that effete induce vomiting terminology here. No Sir, just throw up. Immediately!
In addition to the manual, there are 20 plus warning/operating labels plastered all over the place. That's an absurd number. Some of them provide conflicting information. Some of them are simply duplicates. For example, the operator and passenger each get a separate seat belt warning label. You'd think this thing was a kiddie toy.
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-Serviceability-
I do all my own maintenance. I like my oil filters vertically mounted, open end up. I like my hydraulic filters the same way, but high up, which usually means remote mounts. I would rather bleed air out of a hydraulic system than wear hydraulic fluid any day. Kubota, of course, saw fit to mount the hydraulic filters (two of them) low and the oil filter slightly above horizontal. Ugh! Since I haven't actually done a service yet, I can't say exactly how its going to go, but I'm not looking forward to it.
I have a Service Manual on the way.
-Conclusion-
I'm not in love with it, but it appears it will do, unless fuel consumption turns out to be higher than anticipated. I don't have enough time on it to make that call yet.
Updates as time and circumstance warrant.
Misfire
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