running gear/deck attachment

[jimg]

My plan was to fasten cross pieces to the backs (what you call main beams) and then deck that N/S. My question was about how to fasten the cross pieces to the backs. I recently looked at a Cory wagon w/ a factory deck and on that they used pieces of angle w/ bolts to tie back and cross piece together. Alternatively I could nail them but Im thinking that isnt going to last. Could also lag the cross piece directly into the back but again that seems like it might pull apart. Just curious what other options I might have.

A question about the E/W decked wagons. I seems loading them N/S would be painful. Also does the deck flex much? Guessing teh deck is 2x material.

 

[slowzuki]

Are we talking round bale carrier or flat rack?

I'm talking flat rack and the planks don't have an impact on the stack, The bale strings (for squares) are east west. Usually 2x material but some are lighter. There are a pair of strapping boards that are carriage bolted down each edge to keep all the decking in line.



I made a round bale / log rack similar to how you describe only without a deck. I used galvanized sheet metal brackets from the hardware store and lots of plated deck screws. It has worked pretty well so far, except that its easy to overload it with green logs. I have slots for side pins at the end of the east west "decks" so I can get a dozen or so 24"ers. The main beams are screaming for mercy then!

 

[jimg]

Im talking flat for small squares. It always seems Im trying to push bales front to back and they just dont scoot well when the deck is side to side. The mows in my barn are that way too and Im not looking forward to moving hay on them. Just my (frustrating) experience.

My plan was to set 4x4s perpendicular on the backs and then put the deck on top of that (deck surface runs front to back). Until you mentioned it I had forgotten about the type w/ the E/W deck. I was thinking it would be too light and the deck springy toward the edges. My wagon will get used for firewood and who knows what else which has me thinking over-built.

Thanx for mentioning the sheet metal brackets. I was thinking they were too light but if youre getting good results handling green logs then they must be really rugged!

 

[builder2]

Im talking flat for small squares. It always seems Im trying to push bales front to back and they just dont scoot well when the deck is side to side. The mows in my barn are that way too and Im not looking forward to moving hay on them. Just my (frustrating) experience.

My plan was to set 4x4s perpendicular on the backs and then put the deck on top of that (deck surface runs front to back). Until you mentioned it I had forgotten about the type w/ the E/W deck. I was thinking it would be too light and the deck springy toward the edges. My wagon will get used for firewood and who knows what else which has me thinking over-built.

Thanx for mentioning the sheet metal brackets. I was thinking they were too light but if youre getting good results handling green logs then they must be really rugged!

QUOTE=jimg]Im talking flat for small squares. It always seems Im trying to push bales front to back and they just dont scoot well when the deck is side to side. The mows in my barn are that way too and Im not looking forward to moving hay on them. Just my (frustrating) experience.

My plan was to set 4x4s perpendicular on the backs and then put the deck on top of that (deck surface runs front to back). Until you mentioned it I had forgotten about the type w/ the E/W deck. I was thinking it would be too light and the deck springy toward the edges. My wagon will get used for firewood and who knows what else which has me thinking over-built.

Thanx for mentioning the sheet metal brackets. I was thinking they were too light but if youre getting good results handling green logs then they must be really rugged![/QUOTE]

Almost all running gears are adjustable for length by telescoping the tube shown in your pics. There is inherently flex in the running gear which accomodates uneven terrain when your baling or using in the field.
If you are building a hay wagon for small square bales (or loading it up with firewood), run your 4"x8" main beams, 4"x4" cross beams 2' O.C., 5/4 x6" treated decking with about 3/4" of space between the boards (this allows the chaff to fall thru, plywood would be slick as **** on a moving wagon) , then 2"x4" on top of the decking in the front and both sides, then build your rack for the rear to slide into stake pockets mounted to the end of your main beams.
Bolts the beams in on all four bolsters (some gears have slotted holes), the wood hay rack and running gear will flex enough that it will not break under load. You can use pole barn spikes to nail the 4x4's to the main beams, 16d hot dip galvanized ardox deck nails for the decking and pole barn spike to nail the 2x4's down so they penetrate the decking and go into the 4x4's. I am assuming you are using all treated wood. All of the fasteners used have to be hot dip or stainless steel in the new treated lumber as it eats electro-galvanized fasteners.
The reason I know this works is because I have in my yard a wagon built in this manner on my folks farm in 1968 that is still used regularly.
The plan for the hay rack was originally from Michigan State University. The used to provide plans for pole barns, trusses and many other farm related things thru the extension service (dad built a pole barn fro their plans in 1964 that is still in great shape today).

Hope this helps,

Paul

 

[rambler]

Your terminology has me totally confused.

The running gear (metal parts) look perfectly normal, like 90% of all eunning gears out there. It needs to pivot in the middle, or it will twist the welds apart.

Some hay racks had front bolsters that rocked - they thought the wheels would flex under, & the hay rack would stay level. Horrible idea - when a rear wheel would dip down, the whole load would pitch to that side & about tip.

You just run your stringers on each side (your 4x8s). I have seen both methods - bolt both stringers in the rear onto the uprights and leave the front free-floating. Or put a cable/ chain around the bolster/stringer on opposite corners, one rear, one front. I would _not_ bolt a front & a rear.

The 4 wheels need to be on the ground. The stringers will flex a little, and one corner the stringer will lift off the bolster from time to time. This is normal. You want it to do that.

Myself, I build a hayrack for small squares as low to the ground as I can. You are building it very high, with all that lumber under it! Here is what I did for a 16x7'10" hayrack:

I reused the 4x6 stringers dad had. I put new tin on top of them (This is the place that rots, rain gets in, doesn't get out. Cover the top of the stringer with valley tin. I put used motor oil on the stringer top as well, to help seal/coat the holes. I will expext the next generation can reuse these stringers as well.)

On top of this I put 5/4 treated deck wood cross ways. I pulled if fairly tight; it shrunk to a nice small gap bewteen the planks. allows chaff to fall through.

Lengthwise I put a 2x6 under on each side. Many people put these on top, but I don't like the extra height. They support better from the bottom anyhow.

Across the front & back I have a 2x2 angle iron for strength. Also makes a nice bumper so the wood doesn't get all beat up from tapping things. The rear one is facing up - sharp edge of the angle is an inch or so high in back. In front it faces down, like a cap over the stringers - so the front is smooth. Actually the angle iron is sitting on the stringer, with the decking on top of it.

Built a rack for the back.

That's all there is to it. I put 140 bales or so on it at times.

If it is slippery, I nail some wood lathe type material down each side - 1/2 inch high, 2 inches wide or so. This keeps bales from sliding off the side, but are not so high that it makes more work to toss the bales onto the rack.

I'vew never used a rack where the wood runs the long way - can't see any advantage to it, disadvantage is you need the 4x4s under it all.

I would not ever use plywood for decking, it will be the slipperiest mess you ever had.

I suppose a picture is worth a 1000 words, but I got none.

--->Paul