Running power back to 3 point

[Heuserst]

I have an MX5100 and I need to run 12 volts back to the 3 point to run my 10' sprayer.

After looking at the fuse block and not finding any empty spots, so I'm thinking of running a wire from the battery back to the 3 point.

Any tips on doing this?

I looked for some past post but did not find any.

 

[JRL305]

You would probably like a switch in there somewhere that you can control from the seat. Depending on the amperage draw, you might need a little relay too. I have a 15 gallon wand sprayer for my atv and I rigged a cigarette lighter plug on the end of the wire. The atv has an accessory lighter plug but it's only good for 5 amps. It works the sprayer though. You can put a switch on the dash and run a wire back to the 3pt with one of those two prong power plugs. I'm sure someone will come along with some different ideas too.

John
KD4FTA

 

[pmsmechanic]

Put a fuse in the circuit close to the battery.

 

[DuckSlayer1017]

There are a lot of wiring harnesses you can buy with a relay and switch that will do exactly what you want to do. I just got one off Amazon to wire a LED bar light. You may also have a 12V wire supplied from the factory for a rear light you could hook up to. A lot of tractors have 12V at the rear supplied from the factory.

 

[boggen]

you might have a regular "trailer plug" for trailers ya pull behind trucks... just need to get an adapter plug. but... it may be only a 4 plug unit, vs 7 plug that has an "aux" 12v on that you could use.

as far as the 12v pump, there should be some specs on it. if anything make/model on the pump itself. look it up on internet to find how many amps it needs, start up or max amps. that will give you enough info to get a little "dip switch" and a inline fuse. radio shack, even larger stores walmart, menards, best buy even, should have something, in the automotive isle, or check hit a local automotive parts store.

i would imagine you might have a "blank" fuse, (just need to insert a fuse) and hook up a wire to it, in the fuse box. it can get a little hairy trying to run wire from battery on tractors. trying to route it were it will not get snagged by something.

when looking at packages for toggle/ dipper switch, it should note max amps it can handle.
Toggle Switches, Pushbutton Switches & Paddle Switches | RadioShack

a SPST (single pull single through) switch most likely good enough and put it on the "neg" cable, but a SPDT (single pull double through) might be a tad bit better, both + and - cables from batter connect to switch, and then you have a + and - cables coming off the switch going to the sprayer pump. without getting into ugly if tractor is + or - grounded,

the sprayer pump may have a built in "fuse" in it. so you may not even need a fuse. if you can find info on pump online, it will most likely give details if it has a fuse on it that you can replace or not.

 

[PHILIP8N]

Here are some ideas. For power, I connected and installed a fuse at the starter. Philip.

 

[bumperm]

For this sort of application, I'd recommend Powerlet plugs (also known as Bosch, BMW plugs, and sometimes sold by John Deere dealers).

Advantages over 12 volt cigarette light socket and plug: smaller size, much more secure plug in with lower resistance (won't come loose), handles more current. Jack comes in weather proof versions as well.

Plugs Sockets Wire & More - Powerlet Products

I'd install a fuse near the battery and run 10 or 12 ga wire back to the jack. No need for relays or switches, unless you want to remotely turn the power from the jack on and off. A relay is useful if you want to run lighter wires to a remote switch to control a device, the windings of the relay typically don't require much current and the relay can switch much higher current that most small switches - - so they often make sense*.

*Note that if you have a late model tractor that includes sensitive electronics, then it's wise to install a diode across the relay coil to suppress back EMF (as power is removed from a relay or solenoid, the electromagnetic field collapses back through the coil windings and induces a large, thousands of volts but low current, spike in the wires leading to the coil - - this can sometimes trash stuff.

bumper

 

[Heuserst]

Thanks everyone for you input I'm going to give it a go this weekend.

Steve

 

[k0ua]

Thanks everyone for you input I'm going to give it a go this weekend.

Steve

Steve I am not sure how much current your sprayer draws, but for my little 15 gallon Fimco sprayer, The pump drew less than 2 amps. On my old L3400hst I found a wire on the rear that was just stubbed out in a bullet connector, originally intended for a rear work lamp. It was on a 10 amp fuse in the fuse panel, I just spliced in a 2 pole waterproof trailer connector and was done. I did the same on my Kioti. If you need more current, the idea of running your own wiring, switch and fuse is a good one. Be sure to place the fuse near the source of power, battery or otherwise, as the fuse protects the wiring, and you want the fuse close to the source of power in case a wire becomes chaffed and makes connection to ground. You want the fuse to blow and the wiring not to overheat. If you place your fuse "downstream" the wiring in front of the fuse will overheat and melt/catch fire. As for switch selection if you decide to use one, make sure the current rating of the switch will handle the current your pump will draw. Also waterproofing of the switch would be a good idea. If you wish to use a very small switch then a relay will be needed to handle the current.. holler back if you need any more free advice