Jaydel29
New member
thanks for the info... i'm really hoping that is not the case for mine, but it certainly gives me something to keep on the radar
S650G Hydraulic pump problems
- Thread starter scubabandit
- Start date
Jaydel29
New member
So... i pulled the transfer adapter off the pulley/pump this evening and I think this may very well be the problem.
Replying to Jaydel29
I have exact same block issue.Seems like the block fits pulley shaft well but has play on pump shaft which ends up tearing up the block.Bad design.The only solution I have seen other then machine shop is to try the L050 coupler which is about 1.5 inches in length and will fit between shafts.The torque seems a little under rated though.Have not heard back on any forums on how long the L050 may hold up.
I have exact same block issue.Seems like the block fits pulley shaft well but has play on pump shaft which ends up tearing up the block.Bad design.The only solution I have seen other then machine shop is to try the L050 coupler which is about 1.5 inches in length and will fit between shafts.The torque seems a little under rated though.Have not heard back on any forums on how long the L050 may hold up.
Think I have reached the end of the internet.The rubber spider in the L50 did not last 30 minutes.Stressedsatoh
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- Aug 31, 2021
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- Tractor
- Satoh S650-G
I'm not sure if anyone is still following this. I had the same issues, figured it all out this last weekend all by myself. I have ruined a machined block and had a new one made, I have snapped a pump shaft after this new block was made. So a new pump was ordered and I decided to run with a love-joy coupling, didn't take 30 seconds to ruin that spider so I decided to measure my torque required to turn the new pump and came up with 51 inch pounds just to get it to start spinning. The L-50 coupling is rated for 25 inch pounds the L-70 is rated for 38 inch pounds but coupled together it's just over 2 inches long, and the amount of space you have between pump and the driver that is bolted to the rubber donut on the crank pulley is just over 2 inches. Now that wasn't all I did, that 3 bolt pump driver that has the flat that drives the pump, needs to have the holes widened because it isn't centered either. But to make matters worse how do you tighten the nuts on that part of the driver? I drilled holes in the head of the bolts so I could use safety wire it to the donut to keep them from turning as I tightened the nuts. I also had extra set screw holes drilled in the L-70 to hit both sides of the flat parts of the pump and driver. Now final assembly, bolt the rubber donut with the 3 bolts safety wired to the donut, now to center everything the Love-joy was tightened to the pump and the spider and other love-joy were assembled before inserting into pump opening, as it going together put the red driver on the love-joy and get it to line up with your bolts on the crank shaft, but do not tighten those nuts. Tighten your pump nuts on the studs then loosely tighten the 3 nuts on the driver to donut. Spin the engine by had to make sure it is all aligning up before you tighten the nuts on your driver.
I did mine this way and there is ZERO wobble or spider compression when the engine is turning. My next concern was how do I adjust the relief.... that's how I found this thread.
Questions? Send me a message and I'll see if I can answer. I have pictures and video on my phone but I'm using a work computer and did not feel like adding pictures to this computer.
I did mine this way and there is ZERO wobble or spider compression when the engine is turning. My next concern was how do I adjust the relief.... that's how I found this thread.
Questions? Send me a message and I'll see if I can answer. I have pictures and video on my phone but I'm using a work computer and did not feel like adding pictures to this computer.