s650g hydrulic not working question

[hawks000]

:thumbsup: ok I am restoring this tractor. it has been setting for a few years. got it running...(easy enough) replaced clutch ( not easy enough but done) now the hydrulics won't raise. :smiley_aafz: the guy we got it from said hte hydrulics ran(hes' a friend of my brothers) so I ASSume he's telling the truth... the pump seesm ok.. (can't turn it by hand) so waht else could I look at? pressure relief vavle(if this where is it located at ?) , anotherway to test pump? suggestions , comments etc?:newhere:

 

[mit]

Satoh Parts
you got to look at the diagram on this link.if there is fluid and the pump is working then you should clean out the control valve.the valve that is screwed on with bolts 16.open bolt 1 using a vice to hold the bolt and a big pipe wrench to turn the body.clean out all the passages.be careful not to lose any parts.

 

[mrfixitalways]

When I bought my 650 the three point wouldn't raise either I pulled the top plate off my three point top cover that's over your hydrolic tank .Cranked the engine and if your pumps working you will have flow back into the tank .mine was so I bolted it back up and moved my lever to raise my three point and tapped the control valve with a hammer and it started working and has been for six months I use it every weekend to mow .The spool in the control valve was stuck so with Hydro flow and some light tapping it released.Hope this helps

 

[hawks000]

Thanks for all sthis good info. BUT.. none of this seemed to work. Mine has a FEL hookup on it. I was able to take the plug out (the FEL ain't on the tractor right now) and when I opend it up.. I got COvered..h ha the fluid squirted to the from of the tractor...SO with that I assume the pump is good. I took the front & the back off hte control Valve and cleaned it. DIdn't see anythign in it or anythign stuck... Mrfixit you stated fluid coming back into the tank.. I took the cover off and I did notice that the fluid would buble some when I would try to raise it but not sure fluid is coming back into it. Should I take the entire valve body off the tractor & clean it as well ? Any other ideas.. thanks for all of your help. Hope we can get this resolved so I can finally use the tractor

 

[mit]

if you remove the fel you may need to connect the hoses to send pressure to the 3 point.if this is not connected it will not work. maybe you should put the fel back on.

 

[hawks000]

if you remove the fel you may need to connect the hoses to send pressure to the 3 point.if this is not connected it will not work. maybe you should put the fel back on.

SO if this is the case(hadn't had time to check it out yet) but... that mean I'll have to always have the FEL on the tractor?

 

[mit]

no the disconnected hoses has to be joined together after the fel is removed.

 

[J_J]

hawks000,

Make up a 3000 psi hyd test gage and use it to monitor and trouble shoot your hyd. If you make it up with QD's, you can plug it in for any checks.

In order for open center hyd to work, you need a complete path to tank, in neutral, and any other lever position.

All tank outlets should have a path to tank.

You could install a hyd gage at the input to the FEL and check pressure for any valved activated.

Does the relief valve ever activate?

Be careful around pressurized hyd fluid. There are pictures on TBN to show the results of hyd accidents.

Your hyd path should be something like this. Pump to FEL, then to 3pt, and then tank.

If you remove the FEL, the two hoses that were on the FEL valve should be connected together, the IN hose, and the OUT hose. . IF the FEL valve had PB, then you would have three hoses. The IN hose and the PB out hose would be connected together. The tank hose can be capped.

If you remove the FEL valve with the FEL, the 2 hoses would connect together to provide a complete path. If the FEL remains on the tractor, then plug the work ports on the FEL valve. .

 

[Zenostone]

Excellent tip but how do you make sure the pressure relief is set correctly? I was under the assumption that when you disassemble the control valve you must ensure that the bolts are adjusted properly. Or am I wrong.......

Thanks.

Satoh Parts
you got to look at the diagram on this link.if there is fluid and the pump is working then you should clean out the control valve.the valve that is screwed on with bolts 16.open bolt 1 using a vice to hold the bolt and a big pipe wrench to turn the body.clean out all the passages.be careful not to lose any parts.

 

[hawks000]

Sorry I am so late on updating everyone of my findings. MY tractor is up at my mom & dad's (about 2 hours away) so I don't get to work on it til lteh weekends. ANyway.. THANKS for everyones' help I took a hose off the FEL & run it a s a bypass hose & that seemed to fix my problem ALMOST.. now I can get it to go up but hte only way that it'll go down si to set teh switch between the seats to Till then it drops. I am thinkign that I ahve messed soemthign up *(maybe not reinstalled it corrrectley etc) when I took the Control valve apart. does anyone have a picture or somethign of hte back of the control vavle where the two arms go. I think ambye they need to be "in time" and maybe when I took it apart to clean it? SO I am in need of help again Oh yea & also went ot put it in the shed when I was leaving....it quit turning. the steering wheel turns but that's it... Geuss this weekend I'll have to look into that. any suggestions on this issue as well? Agian THANKS for all your help :thumbsup: