S650G won't start even with new petronix

[mycricri]

Hi all,


I bought a used S650G tractor and shipped it to the family farm in Africa... we have had some much starting issues... and we were going through ignition coils like crazy.
We would put a new coil, it would work for a day or 2 and then it would shut off... until buying another coil and clean the points in the process
I recently sent the petronix electronic starting module with the Petronix Flame thrower 3 ohm 40,000 Volts that goes with it... it worked for about 1 hour, the coil got hot and it won't start again...
I am over the edge and seriously considering adapting a small toyota engine instead if we can't figure this out...

Please help...Thanks



video link of setup as follows: VID-2418-WA5.mp4 - Google Drive

Thanks a million in advance for responding

 

[shinnery41]

If you are running a negative ground battery electrical system you should run the (-) negative terminal of the coil to the distributor and the (+) positive terminal of the coil to the switched 12v source. Make sure the coil is mounted to a good grounded heat sink to get rid of some heat. That resistor on the side of the coil is only needed if it is a 6v coil (1.5 ohm appx.) on 12v system.
Bryce

 

[284 International]

I don't have access to my service manual for the engine at the moment, but I think the ignition system for those engines uses a resistor running to the coil to reduce the voltage to 6V. It looks like there is a ballast resistor on the side of the coil (The white block with the yellow wire) but I don't think it is connected. Generally the positive wire runs through the ballast to the coil, then the negative terminal on the coil goes to the points/ignition control. Verify that the coil isn't seeing excessive current derived from overly high voltage. Pertronix specifies under 4 amps of current for 4 cylinder machines.

You can test your coil (when it isn't burned out) by disconnecting all wires, and testing resistance with a multi-meter across the positive and negative terminals. Take the voltage and divide by the resistance you measured to find current. (V/R=I) If your alternator is producing excessive voltage that may also be the source of the problem. I hope you are able to get it resolved, let us know how you do!

 

[knothead541]

Have you considered changing the voltage regulator. I went around in circles with a similar sounding problem and found the coil wasn't really bad - it just needed to cool down. The number for the regulator that should just plug in is Transpo #IM952 or Amazon.com Generic(?) #MD01821G. You should be able to search the net and buy for $30-$40.

 

[mycricri]

Actually we changed the alternator as soon as it got in Africa, and used whatever could fit the bolt pattern, and the new one didn't have all the wiring module/card that the old one had.
I was suspecting bad ground/wiring...etc as we had experienced the tractor not starting because of wounded wires.
So last night i draw a wiring diagram to get current for the ignition system as close to the battery as possible to isolate those type of issues... the tractor stat but apparently it runs rough and shuts off as soon as power is required to lifting an implement for example... so I am going to go ahead have everything rewired... next will be voltage regulator... I have attached my basic diagram and the full reviewing diagram...