SA424 First Maintenance

[thunderbirl]

Today, at about 50 hrs, I replaced the UTF in the tractor. I wanted to share a few bits that made it "interesting".

I got a bucket of Traveler Premium UTF from TSC as it claims Yanmar on the bucket. I got the KIT-SA001 set of filters and went to work.

Since I don't have a 5 gallon drain pan, but did have a MityVac fluid extractor, I decided to try to suck the UTF out. By snaking the tubing down the fill hole and along the left hand side of the transmission, I got about 2 gallons out. I couldn't get any more than that. That only left a couple gallons, so I opened the drain plug on the bottom and drained out the unit. So far, so good....

Then I tried to remove the filters....

The larger filter is extremely rounded on the end. I couldn't budge it by hand, but that's not unusual. I didn't have a oil filter wrench deep enough to engage the flats (the filter is REALLY rounded on the end), so I tried my "universal" (3 finger) removal tool that tightens while you rachet it off. That wasn't really deep enough either and the wrench just slipped. So I got out the monster set of Channel Locks and, after a lot of pushing and pulling at odd angles, the filter finally came off. It was a bit crushed, but it came off.

The smaller filter is up in the center channel right next to the plastic bladed transmission cooling fan. The filter wasn't so deep or rounded as the first one, so I got my filter wrench... and it wouldn't fit. Come to find out, I have a 14 flat wrench and the filter is a 15 flat. So I tried the "universal" tool and couldn't budge it and resorted to the Channel Locks again. Nearly mangled this one before it came off. It does give some pause to realize that you're pushing, tugging - and slipping - with a big wrench about an inch or so from the (relatively) irreplaceable cooling fan for your transmission.

I think the right way to do this would be a strap wrench, which I don't own, yet - but you might want to be sure that you can get those filters off before you go too far on this job!

Filling was pretty easy, but it's really hard to see the "fresh" fluid. When new, the sight glass shows a really obvious level with red (factory) fluid against a silver background. As the "replacement" fluid is pretty much clear, seeing the level becomes a challenge. You can see it, but it's not obvious. Once I had run the FEL through its paces , there was enough color from the old fluid that it can be easily seen. (I would have also appreciated a longer spout on the bucket o' fluid!)

I did pick up a small amount of red dye just but wanted to try filling without using it. It was tough to see the level, but, after cycling they hydraulics to mix in the older dyed fluit, it's dark enough to see for now. I think next time, I'll look at dying the UTF first.

As you might expect, after changing, there's poor response from the HST or hydraulics until the pumps get primed, which takes 5-10 seconds of use.

Other than that, I'm running again - and remain very happy with my SA424.

Hope this helps someone!

 

[GAFarmer2]

Great write up!

I actually have a question here...what kind of dye did you pick up? I've had the same problem in the past on multiple machines..and my eyes definitely aren't aging like fine wine!

 

[thunderbirl]

I bought it through an ebay seller.

This is the brand:
Products - Narad Marketing Corporation

I got this one:
Rekhaoil Red 164 HF Dye for Petroleum Products

You can buy small quantities, like one ounce, on ebay. I'm not sure, but I think an ounce would easily color about 100 gallons.

I've read (somewhere) that you can purchase it from repair shops (where they use it just like at the factory - to find leaks!) or from tractor dealers.

Hope this helps.

 

[GAFarmer2]

I bought it through an ebay seller.

This is the brand:
Products - Narad Marketing Corporation

I got this one:
Rekhaoil Red 164 HF Dye for Petroleum Products

You can buy small quantities, like one ounce, on ebay. I'm not sure, but I think an ounce would easily color about 100 gallons.

I've read (somewhere) that you can purchase it from repair shops (where they use it just like at the factory - to find leaks!) or from tractor dealers.

Hope this helps.

Awesome. Thank you!

 

[thunderbirl]

Having "dealt with" the hydro and hydraulic, I moved on to the engine maintenance. Having the experience of being unable to remove filters yesterday, I started there today - or tried to....

On the SA424, the oil filter is located "behind" the fuel/water separator/sediment trap. I figured that was OK as I was going to replace the filter element anyway. (It's part of the SA001 kit.) The instructions for removing the trap in the manual were quite clear, but I had to resort to my channel locks to remove the finely threaded ring that holds the clear plastic housing for the fuel filter. I all came apart without issue. As this is my first diesel, I didn't grasp the purpose of the loose red plastic ring in the bottom of the clear housing. A quick experiment confirmed that it floats on water and is meant to make it easier to see when there is water present.

Having now exposed the bottom of the oil filter, I still couldn't get it off. A quick trip to the auto supply store with the "replacement" filter confirmed that it takes a 67mm, 14 flat wrench. That got things started.

I use my SA424 primarily as a mower. The good news is that you can change the engine oil with the mower in place. The catch basin will need to go in from the left side of the tractor because the FWD drive shaft is on the right. No real issues in the oil change other than it's a bit tight to remove the filter and snake it out under the fuel lines. There was a bit of the filter dripping onto the FWD drive shaft, but nothing major.

I had noticed earlier that the manual says to use 10W-30 or 10W-40 oil for the engine, but that the KITSA001 is shipped with 15W-40. A phone call later I was told to "not worry about it". There are some places on the web that talk about how rare 10W-40 diesel oil actually and that 15W-40 should be AOK for all but routine use in the coldest winter conditions. The auto parts store did have 10W-30, but not 10W-40. In the end, I used the 15W-40, but I would have felt better if the engineers that specified the oil were a little better informed about what was on the market. I'll keep my eyes out for 10W-40 in case Santa surprises me with a snowblower!

Putting the water separator/trap back together, I would caution to be careful not to cross-thread the locking ring. Its large diameter and fine threads seem to set up a bit of a risk for that. Don't forget to open the valve or you won't be going far when you try to start the engine! The manual has instructions to "bleed" the system, but it's nothing more than let the pump run for a bit.

I also replaced the air filter - which is dead easy. The only confusing bit is that the cover says "top", but doesn't seem to be related to anything on the engine. My bet is that it's part of some standard filter assembly, was borrowed for this application and the label isn't relevant.

So that's the story of my first maintenance with the KITSA001 supplied filters and parts. I was able to work through everything - and next time I only have myself to blame if those filters won't budge!

Again, hope this helps someone.

 

[Tractorable]

Thanks for the run down Thunderbirl. Good info!

 

[VeRV77]

This is very helpful thunderbirl - I was under the chassis last week thinking about how I'd pull those filters. I'll be getting strap wrench for sure. Thanks for the good info!

 

[thunderbirl]

Buried in the middle of the owners manual for the mower deck is an expectation to change the fluid in the mower's gear box at 50 hours.

I think this was only the second time that I've pulled the deck off. The rear wheels DO have a hole for the pin that lets them lock at 90 degrees so that everything will roll out from under the tractor - once you get it off the lift mechanism! I got hung up because, after pulling the splined connector (mostly) off the PTO mid mount, I couldn't get the shaft to clear the end of the PTO output shaft. After 20 minutes or so of tugging and twisting, it occurred to me to push the knuckle upward. That did it! (an inch shorter on the shaft would have avoided the problem!) The rest was pretty easy.

Changing the oil in the gear box has the potential of being a sloppy ugly mess. The only way to not drool oil all over the belts and onto the deck is to pick up the rear of the deck and open the drain plug over a bucket. I was able to use a hook and chain on the pin/hook where the rear of the deck attaches to the lift on the tractor.

The drain and fill plugs on the sides have very soft rubber gaskets on them, so don't over tighten. There's also no way in through the top - but wow that's a big bearing!

So now the first maintenance is done. Gotta say I know my tractor a whole lot better now!

Again, hope this helps someone.

 

[Tonyinohio]

I was about to start a thread related to this so I'll jump on I performed my 200 hour service this weekend. I bought the same kit even though I really didn't need the hydro filters. I decided to replace them anyway. After topping off the fluid I went out and started working on the fence project. Parked the tractor, did some work and then went to move the tractor. Pushed the reverse pedal....nothing.... forward pedal....nothing...????? checked fluid....looked a little low.....walked back to garage....armed with a funnel and a gallon of fluid I topped it off.....nothing. Then it dawned on me! As I stepped off the tractor an hour ago my long tee shirt caught the H-N-L shifter and put it in neutral. Put the tractor in L and viola....good as new Always look for the simple fix first and tuck in your shirt!