SAE90 Transmission Gear Oil

beltfed · Sep 3, 2004

Iseki 1610 Tractor.

I was attempting to replace the Hydraulic fluid and low and behold I unscrewed the transmission plug. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif It was a brown fluid. I knew it wasn't hydraulic once it was almost overflowing the 7qt bucked I had below. Hydraulic fluid should have been only 5.8 at the most.

I know of no places which sell sae90 strait. Can I put in 80-90weight which most of the auto and the kubota store near me have?

Thanks.

slowrev · Sep 3, 2004

IF your tractor calls for 90W then 80W90 should work. Do pay attention to the GL number, GL5 can be bad for some gearboxes with yellow metal in them. If the manual says to use GL5 then use it, otherwise use whatever GL is specified.

Soundguy · Sep 3, 2004

My ford 8n and 2n both use 5 gallons of 90wt mineral gear oil to lube the tranny, diffy, and run the hyds. It is gl-1 as there is yellow metal in our hydro pump that a higher gl rating may harm

Napa, wallmart, and tsc all sell 5 gallon pails of 90wt gl-1 mineral gear oil. TSC sells it int he traveler brand, and it is specified as "for ford tracts 1939-1952".. and then below that says 90wt ggl-1 lube.

Napa just says 90wt gl-1 same as wallmart.

I believe the napa number is NAPA part number 65-205

Soundguy

Larry_T · Sep 3, 2004

80-90 would be fine.

beltfed · Sep 3, 2004

I went up to Walmart and found big 5 gallon tubs of Super Tech. I bought one of each

SAE80w-90 GL5 Gear Lubricant

The other huge 5 gallon tub - Super Tech Hydraulic Heavy Duty Tractor Hydraulic Transmission oil.

I debated on which to use since the Hydraulic said Hydraulic AND Transmission oil. I ended up putting in the Gear Lubricant into the transmission/rear area (which I believe is one giant open area)

Of course the Hydraulic went into the Hydraulic area.

I also decided to change the fuel filter and I'll talk about that in another post. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

Thanks everyone.

Soundguy · Sep 3, 2004

The trans/hydro fluid is a universal fluid.. generically referred to as UTF.. universal tractor fluid.. or transdraulic fluid. it is rated for hydraulic systems, transmissions, and rear ends / final drives. In some cases wet brakes as well.

I hope your rear end doesn't have any yellow metal bushings.. gl-5 is known to be damaging to yellow metals.

Soundguy

slowrev · Sep 4, 2004

Soundguy,
On the GL5/Yellow metal thing. Aren't synchronizer rings in manual transmissions still yellow metal ? Makes me wonder, My little Subaru only has 198K on it and one of the synchronizers is going out. Dang GL5! Of course the wife driving it could have something to do with that too /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Soundguy · Sep 4, 2004

I'm not sure of the specifics for your application, or the fluid your vehicle uses. All I can say is the report I've seen from one of the big oil companies cautioning the use of certain gl-level products for certain applications.

My 1946 ford 2n has an absolutely irreplacable hydraulic scotch yoke piston pump in the belly sump. the belly sump holds 5 gallons of hyds, tranny, and diffy oil. Let me say again.. there are NO surplus parts for this pump in production, nor have their been for years.. only salvage parts... and even a slavaged pump is close to 400 bucks...

This tractor is completely restored in showable condition, and with it's easy life and with storage and care.. there is no reason why it can't live another 50 years... I would be remiss to add an oil product that was even mildly damaging to the internals of the tractor. ( cam blocks and pistons in that pump are yellow )

Todays consumer grade vehicles are designed to be disposable. 10-20-30 years is a completely acceptable lifespan for a vehicle. My tractor.. and ones like it are approcahing 60ys old.. with the 1939 models hitting 65 ys. You don't see many consumer grade economy cars at 65 years old.. non-rebuilt, and still working at 80% capacity or better, like much vintage farm equipment still is.

Soundguy

BobG_in_VA · Sep 4, 2004

I'll second that post! My friend and I just picked up another piece of Red Iron ("Farmall Super C") from 1953. 2pt Fast hith. It'll match his '52 Super C and my '57 Farmall 230 (a couple or iterations later). All have FastHitch. Did a couple things like replaced a hydraulic hose, reconnected the battery/coil correctly as it was originally built as Positve Ground but the previous owner had it set at Negative Ground (maybe that would be one of the reasons he sold it so cheap..) I've got a Super C fast hitch sickle bar mower that has been waiting for someone like this to come along. Yeah, I know that its only 47 years old but it fires up on the first turn with no smoke and purrrs like a good Farmall. Yeah they don't really build them like that anymore....BobG in VA hoping all in FLA are doing OK.