Satoh Elk S550G No spark???

[geminimoon66]

Ran out of gas and the engine backfired. Filled gas tank and now there is no spark at all from the coil or spark plugs and can't see any spark at the points.

Replaced the coil, spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, points and condenser. Plugs are gapped at 0.031 and the points are gapped at 0.018 and still not getting a spark at the plugs nor do I see any spark at the points.

Anyone have a clue as to what may be causing this? I an at a loss at this point and really need this thing up and running ASAP!


Satoh Elk S550G with the Mazda PB 100 inline 4 gas engine.

 

[hoozie]

First - Do you have power to the + side of the coil with the key on?

Second - Disconnect the - side of the coil, then attach a jumper wire to it. Tap that jumper to ground morse code style and see if you get spark out of the coil.

If that works, then it's something in the points or the wiring to the points. Also, a bad condenser could be shorted to ground, which would keep it from sparking.

 

[geminimoon66]

hoozie - Thanks for your reply!

Yes, there IS power to the (+) side of coil with the key on. Attaching jumper wire to the (-) side of coil there IS spark.

Have checked wiring to the points and it's all good too. As stated earlier, the points, condenser, coil, cap, rotor, plugs & wires are all brand new.

Still not getting any spark at the plugs or the points...

 

[hoozie]

Hmm, so the coil makes spark by hand. Then the points have to make spark as well, as long as: the points have a good ground, and the condenser isn't shorted to ground (I'd remove it for testing).

Can you leave the cap off and crank it, making sure that the points open and close completely?

Is the carbon button still in the top center inside of the distributor cap? If that falls out, you'd have spark, it just won't make it to the wires...

Basically, you know you have spark from the coil, so start adding _one_ more thing in the chain at a time, and see where you lose spark.

 

[Utah Bison]

Using a 12 volt test light with the wire clipped to ground. The - side of the coil should light the light with the points open, go out when the points close. If it stays off the wire is grounded inside the distributor somewhere. If it stays on the points arn't grounding.
Possabilities are poor insulation on the bolt going into the distributor where the wires connect.
Poorly grounded distributor. I assume the distributor is rotating when engine is cranked.
Poorly grounded condencer will cause very weak erratic spark.
Broken wire from coil - to distributor or poor connector.
Theres a few ideas.
Good Luck Lee

 

[geminimoon66]

UPDATE! PROBLEM SOLVED!

Okay. Now that I fully understand the entire ignition system in this tractor, and a big thanks to many of you for that knowledge!

I/we, were on the verge of building a new wiring harness from scratch, when one more guy showed up to "have a look." This one guy popped off the distributor cap, stuck his knife in by the points and KRACK! a BIG blue spark! He had the tractor up and running in like five minutes!!!

Turns out the small braided wire that attaches to the inside of the distributor body to the points was loose on the distributor. After all the poking around everyone has done, it's hard to believe that this one little wire had never been touched...

A hose sprung a leak shortly after running last night so it looks like new hoses for the engine to be on the safe side. Plus we have all new back up parts for the entire ignition system!

Found a great price on a tune up kit from Weaver's in PA. Also found that a near perfect match for upper and lower radiator hoses(from Advanced Auto) are from a 1997 Saturn SC series with the 1.9L L4 and a 1997 Chevy S-10 with the 2.2L L4. The ends need trimmed on both but the bend match well!

Thanks to all for your input!!!

 

[Utah Bison]

Glad to hear your back in the saddle again:thumbsup: