Satoh S650G tractor

[Devil-Dog]

Im trying to HELP my fiancee with HER Satoh. Shes owned this tractor for 4 yrs and she just bought a BRAND NEW Bush Hog to go behind it. I got it all hooked up for her and the PTO kicks butt as far as turning the blades BUT,,,The 3 pt hitch WONT raise NOR lower the bush hog more than an inch or so. She says thats ALL the tractor EVER did raise or lower since she owned it. I know it should raise or lower more than that but Im no tractor person either. Any help would be appreciated,,,Thanks
Devil-Dog,,,,Yes it does raise and lower BUT,,,NO MORE than an inch or so

 

[mit]

hey dude i would like to help you out. but i would like to know if the hitch goes up all the way without the bush hog connected? my first guess would be that the spool valve that is connected to the lever that you use to lift is not adjusted correctly.go to Valley Power click on parts and look for three point hitch.this may help you to understand how it works.

 

[Bill Barrett]

Yep talk to Valley, my 650 3pt will pull the front of the tarctor off the ground if the load is too heavy.

 

[Devil-Dog]

No,,,,,Even when the bush hog isnt hooked up,,,,it still goes up and still goes down but STILL only about an inch or two either way??????? Glad you great people out here are helping someone NEW like me who isnt knowledgeable about these OLD tractors
Semper-Fi
Devil-Dog

 

[Bl8tant]

I have 2 650Gs, and I would check 3 things first. I have had this issue before, and it was a simple fix.

1) Make sure the reservoir is topped off with HYDRAULIC fluid (not gear oil). The fill port is directly under the drivers seat.

2) Check the wire screen filter to make sure it is not clogged. The filter is located on the right side of the tractor, just below the drivers seat on the side of the hydraulic reservoir.

3) After checking both of the above.....top off hydraulic fluid, remove the brushhog, start the tractor, put the lift lever in the UP position, then physically pick up the lift arms as far as you can lift them and hold them up for a few seconds (they are not that heavy, and should lift smoothly with no binding). Then let go of them. If they stay up, then fluid is moving into the piston and we can go from there. If they fall right back down...it can be a lot of different things. (pump, valve body, piston, seals,etc)

Try these and report back with what you find.

 

[Devil-Dog]

Thanks B/8
I will try this Saturday when I go spend the weekend with my Fianceee and get back to ALL of you,,,This FORUM is the best for people like ME whos starting out in the tractor business of trying to fix thing ourselves...ALL you guys ROCK
semper-Fi
Devil-Dog

 

[Devil-Dog]

Ok so I couldnt wait for Saturday,,lol I DROPPED the BUSH HOG,,,,started the tractor,,,,,raised the arms MANUALLY and yes they DID NOT stay up ALL THE WAY but they did stay up where they normally stay. ALSO,,,what I did find was the oil is leaking out the seal by one of the arms and it smelled like GEAR oil and hydraulic fliud but I looked EVERYWHERE and DID NOT see a screen filter ANYWHERE??????I aslo stood on these arms while operating them and it DID raise me a lil higher than it did when the hog was hooked up. I aslso found these numbers on the side of the mitsubitsi motor block if they will help any,,,,,,013530 and on the other side of the tractor I found the data plate stating it was indeed a Satoh S650G tractor made by Satoh....Where do I go from here besides FLUSHING out the hydraulics and replacing the leaking seal by the ONE arm....And refilling with a GOOD HYDRAULIC oil till FULL?????? thanks for ALL the support you guys are giving......Semper-Fi
Devil-Dog

 

[mit]

you did well.however you did not report on the level of the fluid.the screen is normally inside the case on the side mentioned.you have to unbolt the bolts on the plate there.setup a 5 gal bucket there and remove the plate.you may have to dig a hole to fit the bucket there.when the plate is removed oil will come gushing out of it.in that opening you should find the screen.carefully remove and wash with solvent using a soft brush.you should have more than half bucket of oil.

 

[Bl8tant]

The serial number you really need to locate and post is on the transmission case right beside your left foot (as you are sitting in the tractor seat). That number will give us an idea of what year the tractor was made. From there, one can determine if the tractor has a draft control valve body (external - found on the older models), or the internal valve body(found on later models).

The filter screen retainer on these tractors looks like a large bolthead on the side of the reservoir. When you unscrew the "bolt" you will discover that the filter is attached to it. There are o-ring seals on it, so it may offer some resistence to coming out.

Hydraulic capacity is just over 1 gallon. Universal hydraulic fluid works great and it's around $35 for 5 gallons (use the "extra" to flush the system a couple times).

If you have a leaky seal, odds are it's low on fluid. FYI- that particular seal would NOT prevent the lift from working if you have plenty of fluid. I'd also feel safe in saying that the filter is clogged. Anytime the lift on mine gets slow or jerky, I know it's time to clean the filter.

 

[Devil-Dog]

Thanks Guys a million. Yes Fliud is LOW but everytime I try and FILL it up,,,,It keeps POURING out the SEAL by the LEFT ARM ONLY...Found the serial number for HER tractor and nameplate says SATOH MANUFACTURING Company and serial number where you said it would be is......S-650G-001031. Now that YOU guys know the SERIAL NUMBER maybe someone can HELP me find this FILTER,,What type of filter and how to remove it,,clean it and replace it. I also wrote Vpower 2 emails asking about these seals to replace on both arms BEFORE I try filling up again. Havent heard from Vpower since I emailed them a couple days ago. I also need a Starter key switch for this Very tractor but on the back of THIS key switch She has 5 push on lugs rotated in a clock position . Also I need a selinoid for her starter cause hers is shot and a NEW or used NICE one,,,,STEERING WHEEL,,,,If I can afford all stated parts described here,,,Her tractor NOW runs like a sewing machine,,,,Sweet,,Thanks again for all the AWESOME help and responses
Semper-Fi
Devil-Dog

 

[Bl8tant]

That is a very early model ! But it's still not that different from the later models.

The filter is not really a "must replace" item unless it is damaged. It's made of very fine wire mesh (tube shaped), so a good cleaning with a brass bristle brush (or even nylon) will usually suffice. Now you just need to find it! Like I mentioned before, it is on the right side of the reservoir just below the upper lift arms. It looks like a large bolt with a washer "molded" to it. I will try to take a picture of mine and post on here, but it may take a couple days before I havea chance to go do it.

If the seals you need are anything like the seals I've replaced on mine....be prepared for sticker shock! I replaced a brake seal and it cost me $68. Is there is any way you can get the filter cleaned, top off the reservoir and then quickly try the lift before it leaks out? At least then you would know if it's going to work after you install the seals. If there is more wrong than just clogged filter and low fluid, you are probably looking at some serious money to fix it. An OEM hydraulic pump is $600 for a used one and much more for rebuilt. From what I've read on here, Valley sells a retrofit kit that replaces the OEM pump with a standard off-the-shelf pump, but again you are looking at quite a bit of money.

The solenoid is going to set you back $90 unless you can find a cross-reference to a cheaper version.

Switch assembly....if it works at all, I'd leave it alone unless you are really concerned about it. It may be hard to find and it definitely won't be cheap. The switch on both of my 650s is stubborn, but they work.

Best of luck and keep us posted. I'll work on getting you a picture in the meantime.

 

[Devil-Dog]

Great B/8
I will wait for the pic and then proceed to clean screen,,fill up and try again...In the meantime,,,if anyone has a Seal for the left pick up arm I need one,,,,,Also if anyone has a NICE steering wheel I need one By the way,,,,Does anyone know what YEAR her tractor is by the serial number of....S-650G-001031???????? Still want to find a key switch that has the 5 prong plug in in the back of the switch in a clockwise position where as I can just unplug her wires and plug them back on the NEW switch,,,,thanks again
Semper-Fi
Devil-Dog

 

[Bl8tant]

This should help you find the filter. Your tractor may have a large valve body (draft control) above the filter, like the one in the next picture.

 

[Devil-Dog]

Ok,,,,ours looks like the TOP pick and I will unscrew the bolt and CLEAN the screen. Where you was pointing to on OURS,,,we have 2 bolts,,one in front of the other,,one bolt being smaller than second bolt so I am assum
ing its the LARGER bolt where the screen is.Now last question Please,,,,Where is the DRAIN plug to COMPLETELY drain the hydraulics and FLUSH it out good while also cleaning screen before I refill with NEW hydraulic fliud??????? Thanks again
Semper-Fi
Devil-Dog

 

[Bl8tant]

When you pull the screen, that will drain all the fluid. There is no other drain that I'm aware of for the hydraulic system.

 

[Devil-Dog]

Thanks B/8
That should do it for my girlfriend for now on her tractor. After I get it cleaned and refilled and working,,,,,our next step will be to replace the leaking seal on the one side of the pick up arm and replacing the steering wheel. You guys are the tops. If it werent for ALL your great help,,,,We wouldnt be anywhere with this AWESOME progress. GOD BLESS you all and as always,,,,Semper-Fi
Devil-Dog

 

[Lucky1]

Thanks B/8
That should do it for my girlfriend for now on her tractor. After I get it cleaned and refilled and working,,,,,our next step will be to replace the leaking seal on the one side of the pick up arm and replacing the steering wheel. You guys are the tops. If it werent for ALL your great help,,,,We wouldnt be anywhere with this AWESOME progress. GOD BLESS you all and as always,,,,Semper-Fi
Devil-Dog

I replaced the seal in the lift arm of a stallion, I took the seal to a business that sells seals and drive belts and bearings, they measured it and had to send for one. The cost was only around $8.00 dollars, it had been leaking for years and I know parts are a nightmare and I just kept putting it off.

 

[Devil-Dog]

Thanks Lucky,,,,will try that BEFORE ordering ORIGINAL seal
In the MEANTIME,,,,Still need a NICE steering wheel thats NOT all cracked or chipped,,,My babys wheel hurts her hands with no power steering and its ALL busted up
Semper-Fi
Devil-Dog

 

[Devil-Dog]

Ok Guys,,,,
Today Saturday July 5th,,,,Im REALLY pulling my hair out.....I tried many attempts to BREAK loose the 21mm BOLT,, with the washer made to the bolt,,, but my 6 point socket keeps slipping off. I know that this is the BOLT that has the FILTER SCREEN behind it but its apparently NEVER been off and it WONT BREAK LOOSE... I am letting it soak overnight full of Diesel fuel in hopes of it maybe loosing up by tomorrow. I did manage to get the drain plug out which HAD a magnetic end on it and OHHHH Myyyyy Godddddd,, you should have seen all the microscopics pieces built up on the magnet. NOW I trully feel if I can get the screen out,,,,and clean it,,,that will PROBABLY fix her lift problem OTHER than the one leaking seal on the LEFT pickup ARM. ANY ideas as to HOW to get this BOLT LOOSE out in the middle of the field and NO air tools or air compressor....Satnding By at ATTENTION till I hear from you guys,,,,LOL
Semper-Fi
Devil-Dog

 

[Kernopelli]

When you say slipping off, is it rounding the bolt head or coming off the end when you try to loosen it?
If rounded, I would probably try using a pipe wrench. My experience is that if you are already at the place where doing a little more damage is not an issue, a pipe wrench will bite better than anything else short of breaking out a torch or welder.

If the socket is coming off the end of the bolt head when you put pressure on it, I would first recommend trying a six point box end wrench. I have found that if a bolt head has a really shallow shoulder or is a little sloppy in the socket, the distance between the end of the socket and the handle of the socket wrench is enough that the socket can torque in an uneven plane and twist off the bolt head (if that makes any sense...there's got to be a better way to describe what I mean, but I can't think of it right now). The wrench should stay on the bolt head a little better.