Seat suspension pin broke

Gary Fowler · Oct 4, 2012

Hey did any of you guys take some time to look at your seat suspension. Assuming that you have something similar to the P7010 with the double X bracket underneath hooked to a double spring and shock absorper. Anyway the shoulder pin that connects the X at the crossing and allows the X to move up and down snapped off which in turn caused one of the X legs to break at the weld in front. When this happens, you have to either reweld it or buy a complete seat, there is no part replacement for this piece which equals $$$$$$$$$$$. I happened to find all the pieces and with the help of the shop mechanic we got it all back together and I welded it all back together. They are supposed to be ordering me another seat but now that I have this one properly welded, I may just keep it. It is still under warranty, but just barely. I didnt price the new seat but I would bet mine is over $400 from the dealer. I would look at an aftermarket air ride suspension prior to paying that much though.
Anyway, just a heads up guys. The pin weld should be beefed up on any seat prior to it breaking. From the quickness of the area distributor in replying to the query with "Did the pin break" make me believe that this is not an isolated instance. If the pin is in tact, it is about an hour or less repair to remove the seat, weld the pin with a substantial weld, paint and reinstall rather than waiting for it to break which then takes about 4 hands to hold the whole thing together and get it plumbed and squared assuming you find the shoulder pin.

Baby Grand · Oct 4, 2012

Thanks for posting this - I'd much rather do a little PM, now, than to have stop it & try to fix it in the middle of some project!
The delivery guy just dropped off a K&M Swivel Pro swivel plate in anticipation of Winter snow removal with the rear blade:

Replacement Seats: Tractor Seats, Forklift Seats + Suspension Seats | Northern Tool + Equipment

I'll be sure to check the shoulder pin weld when I get the seat off, maybe this weekend.
If it looks at all questionable I'll give it a tack or two.
<edit>
Just realized this is in ref to an LS tractor - but I'll still give the Kubota a look see and determine if their retention method is in similar need of sparks.

Gary Fowler · Oct 4, 2012

You reminded me that I should look at my Kubota seat also and see if it is similar welding. Design of seats is likely pretty similar, welding might be a bit better though on one than the other.

Gary Fowler · Oct 4, 2012

Looked at the Kubota, completely different system on it so not a problem.

I just talked to my LS dealer and they have a seat on order to replace the one we fixed by welding and my drawbar is on order also but no word on when it will get here. Also going to look at my tachometer and gauge shorting out sporadically. I guess that I will remove the loader and haul the tractor over for them to work on all the issues at once when the parts come in. Without the loader, I think my 12K trailer will haul it ok, just have to balance it so not too much tongue weight. I guess while they have it, they can check the pressure on the FEL and set it to factory specs as it seems to be getting weaker and weaker. I used it today to lift the front of my 1500 series Chevy truck and it was about all it would do to get the truck tires off the ground.

Gary Fowler · Oct 18, 2012

I picked up the tractor from dealer today. Looks like they do make the part now for replacing the suspension. I guess it got a bit expensive replacing all those seats so they now make a newly designed one and sell only the suspension part. All my repairs were covered by warranty thankfully

vwnotrunning · Oct 20, 2012

Did you get to keep your old seat or did they keep it to fix and use to replace the next warranty they have?

Gary Fowler · Oct 21, 2012

Actually when I got over to pick it up, they found out that LS now makes just the suspension part and didnt have to replace the whole seat. NO I didnt get to keep any of the old parts. They were laying out front of the building when I went inside. They said they have to keep them to show the area distributor in case they get audited. I do still have my old fuel tank that they replaces last year. I went and picked it up at the shop and they wanted the old one back, which I said I would bring when it is empty of fuel. So far it is still holding fuel and the new one is still in the box. Man that JB Weld is doing a good job on those cracks in the plastic fuel tank. I am sure that one day I will go out and find fuel dripping but untill then the old one will stay on the tractor.

vwnotrunning · Oct 23, 2012

I have never had any luck with JB weld and plastic.

Gary Fowler · Oct 24, 2012

vwnotrunning said:
I have never had any luck with JB weld and plastic.

I took acetone and thoroughly cleaned the diesel, then a power wire brush to rough up all the area. In the cracks, I used the brush to V out a little rough trench following the 4 cracks at the corners of the embeded nuts. I then just poured on enough JBWELD to thoroughly cover the area with a thick coat. I let it dry for a day and then reinstalled the tank after modifying the tank support. I put in a solid steel plate under the tank and welded the little skid plate to the frame. It was formerly attached to the tank with the embedded bolts that caused the crack.
I also fixed the tail lights on my Chevy truck with JB WELD. They were broken when I bought it and Chevy replaced them and I found them cracked again a few years later. I made a form for the JBWELD and poured it around the mounting hole. when dry I redrilled the mounting holes. It still holding on that too.