Seeking some urgent clarity on turning while rototilling WITHOUT differential drive

[amarfsf]

Hello everyone. We live on a small 3 acre farm about 100 km west of Hyderabad in India. We are trying to grow food for ourselves and not so much for the market. Due to problems of compaction, etc., we are wanting to switch from tilling with big tractors to a small 2-wheeled walking tractor. There aren't that many good walking tractors available in India and the BCS tractors are really expensive. Given our budget, we can only choose between the BCS 720 (similar to 722) and 730 (similar to 732) models. One is a third more expensive than the other. The main difference between the two besides power is the differential drive. The only instance where the differential might be useful is when we are roto-tilling the weeds around about 200 fruit saplings that we have. But I am not very certain about this. Does the differential make a great difference WHILE roto-tilling around small plants, or is it only useful when turning at the end of a row without attached implements engaged?

Our weeds are really getting out of hand and we would like to buy a tiller soon (in the next week). And we would really like to not spend tons of money on something that won't be super-useful for us, given we have to borrow money to buy either model. So we can use any insight the experienced and helpful members of this forum can provide us.

Thank you.
Amar

 

[aczlan]

We had a BCS in the 1990s and it did not have a differential. As I recall, it wasn't a big deal to turn around at the end of a row and make the next pass right next to it. It will tear up the ground a little more if you make tight turns and you will have to use a little more effort to turn it, but it shouldn't be too bad in my opinion.
How much land will you be tilling?

Aaron Z

 

[amarfsf]

Aaron, thanks for that really rapid feedback!

We will be tilling a little over 2 acres. I understand regular, straight tilling is no problem at all without the differential. It's only when tilling the weeds around the 200 or so saplings that I have this doubt about.

 

[CalG]

I have only experience with a TroyBuilt rear tine tiller that has served me well the past 30 years.
There is so little directional stability in the fixed axle that the tires are easily "skidded" the small amount it takes to turn when and where you want. If that BCS weighs 400 kilos, that might be different. The TroyBuilt is quite light.

 

[cmyoung2]

I use to have a BCS725/no diff. I now use a 850w/diff. I think part of it may depend on your strength and body size. I'm 6', 220 lbs and can man handle the 725, BUT, now I'm 60+ years and really like the steering on the 850. If you are tilling shallow around obstacles, then I would go with the diff. It will make that type maneuvering much easier and less likely to till up the seedlings. When you get mower it will make a big difference. Again, being able to turn around obstacles is a real plus for a diff, especially with the weight of a BCS. And when you get to the end of the row, turning is easy.
I know, spending someone else's money is easy, but I also borrowed to get the 850, still paying it off, and don't regret it a bit.

 

[mddorange]

:welcome:
To TBN Amar. As you can see, you joined the right site to get answers.

Enjoy.

 

[oosik]

I used an 8 HP Troy Bilt Horse without any differential and it was an easy turn at the end of rows. I can only imagine that a differential would, at least, do this to the unit - make it considerably more complicated and add to the overall price of the unit. I navigated around plants, rocks, bushes and trees, with this unit - just fine.

In My Humble Opinion(IMHO) - a two wheel tractor with a differential is a true waste of $$$$.

By the way(BTW) - Amar, welcome to TBN and this forum.

 

[cmyoung2]

The Troy Built is not as heavy as the BCS, and with that much acreage, anything to make things easier is good. The challenge to me is the 732 does not have brakes, which for me would be a big change. I till, rotary plow, finish mow, flail mow, plow(root crops and till) snow blow, push with the blade, and use as a power barrow. Using the 13 hp Honda, so my 850 might weigh a little more than a 732, plus my tires are foam filled and I run wheel weights when needed. Most of the flail mowing is on terrain where I can't get a 4 wheel tractor, a real workout with the steering brakes, very difficult without. I even keep a set of spare brake cables just in case.
So, I know it is a quick decision, but think about what else you might use the tractor for in the future. If you can, try out each and see the difference with and without the diff. The main reason I bought the 850 and sold the 725 was the diff and steering brakes, power was not an issue.

 

[leonz]

You can always buy landscape weed prevention fabric and fabric staples to surround the saplings and also allow all the rain to drain through the fabric to the tree roots.

Once you get it unrolled you can cut a slit for the fruit trees trunk and just cut some slits in the fabric to allow the trunk to grow with no restrictions.

Are you going to produce tree fruit with the espalier method where the fruit tree limbs are forced to follow a wire on a fence line much like topiary. This method reduces the labor needed to grow tree fruits and makes harvesting easier as well and lets you spray using much less chemicals like the winter sprays that use a soap oil spray to kill the bug in winter before you need to prune the trees. You will have much less work to do if you use the espallier method.

I am unsure where you can buy it on the sub continent but you can see the weed fabric at FarmTek - Hydroponic Fodder Systems, Farming & Growing Supplies, Hoop Barns, Poultry & Livestock Equipment, High Tunnels, Greenhouses & More

 

[oldballs]

You might consider just using a hoe. No gas, no mechanics to prep,.....about two minutes per tree....you might be finished sooner and a lot cheaper. Once your land is worked with some tilth, hoeing goes pretty easy. We are talking about a circle about 1 1/2 ft around each tree. You gonna do this by yourself, or do you have one/two helpers e.g. kids, wife etc.?

P.S. I have used a front tine 8 HP Sears tiller for over 40 years. It still works pretty good too and is quite easy to maneuver and I'm over 80 YO and weigh 145 lbs. You have to learn how to set the wheel depth and drag stake to get the effect that you want.

Cheers,
Mike