Seized/Rusted engine 51 Farmall Super C

[Nat]

Schrody, I spent a few hours fixing some dents in the fuel tank, and making some brackets to bolt the nose/grill on. A gallon of Farmall red from tractor supply cost 23.00
The decals cost 22.09, the mufler was 19.95 and the seat cover was 18.95 from www.valu-bilt.com
Here it is after painting

 

[Nat]

I really like using the little tractor and my wife thinks it looks right for our place(kind of and old cabin in the woods) so I decided to put a 3PH on it. The material cost me, I believe 214.00. I could have bought one already engineered and ready to bolt on for about 700.00, but I have a pretty good shop and the welding and design wern't to difficult. It turned out well and works good. I use it with my 5' Kiota box blade and would rather get on it that my ford 3000. Here is a pic of the 3PH

 

[AKfish]

Whooee.... She's a purty one! Ya done good. Your 3 pt. fabrication is impressive, too. Never had one of those on the 'ol C I used as a kid. Used to hook up to an old dump rake and head out into the heat to chase pocket gophers and rattlesnakes. Nah, my rows looked OK... /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif AKfish

 

[Soundguy]

I've had good luck with a mix of kerosene and atf fluid. Though have even heard of an initial overnight soak with vinegar to cut some rust, before a soak with the mix.

I'd also rather turn on the crank pully, rather thant he pto as another said.

If you do pull the head.. I'd also agree with the wood block idea.. you may want to clean up the valve stems.. lube them.. etc..

Soundguy

 

[rvtech]

IMO. Don't try to turn it or damage will occur. Diesel fuel is not the best penetrant. Neither is auto trans fluid. J.B. 80 is a very good penetrant. Spray it on a rusted item and the rust runs off immediately.

Remove spark plugs, fill cylinders till runs out with "80" spray cans. Leave it alone. I had a bad one take 3 weeks. One morning the 80 was laying on the ground. Yes it leaked right through the oil pan drain plug. (it's good stuff) Engine turned over. It had been seized for years.

 

[Soundguy]

Kero and ATF.. or MMO makes a fine seeping penetrant... I've unstuck lots of parts that way.

PB blaster is good too.. if you have a place it can puddle or set on a joint.. etc.

Lots of tricks out there, and there is no '1' right way.

Hit any of the antique power boards and ask how many people are using some version of kero/ATF/MMO as a break free lube.

Some use Kroil too.. etc..


Soundguy

 

[mjarrels]

I have a 1949 "C"... and had similar issues due to long storage issues in the machine shed but it was not locked up. Try the "hand crank". Started the ole "C" many times as a young kid in cold weather using the hand crank (always started) and I never broke my arm. Also used the ford diesel tractor to pull the "C" getting it started... rat nest flew out the exhaust stack but it always started. Farmall "C" was a Tough tractor.

 

[Schroby]

Ok, so persistence is not yet paying off, but I may have a new dilema. The engine definitely has rust, it pours out of the spark plug hole when I "flushed" the penetrant out for new stuff, and there was plenty under the valve cover. However, I'm wondering if I have a transmission problem. With the tractor in neutral and both wheels off the ground, shouldn't I be able to spin the tires? I tried the same w/ the clutch in, but they won't spin. It feels "locked" in gear. I blocked the clutch pedal in and checked the clutch disk, it moves. Could I have a problem other than the engine? Maybe the engine's not as bad as I thought, but for now it doesn't look like I could even pull the old girl home since the rear tires won't spin freely. Again, this tractor was parked w/the plow/hydraulics engaged, could this contribute? Thanks for help, I'll be at it again tomorrow morning!

 

[jimmysisson]

Schroby- I'm assuming you mean you blocked both rear tires up off the ground and tried to turn one. Gearbox in neutral or not, the other one should turn, the opposite way, due to the differential. If neither will turn, could it be the brakes are rusted engaged? If either wheel will turn 3-4 inches then stop, probably not the brakes. It doesn't seem likely they rusted in place, unless of course the guy left them locked on, then they easily could be rusted to the drums. If you can back off on the brake adjuster you might break them loose by trying to rock the wheels back and forth.
You've said "hydraulics engaged" but I'm not sure what that means - does this C have an internal pump? I only know As, that didn't. If such a pump ran directly off the transmission and it was broken/jammed, it wouldn't allow the output shaft to turn. Still, if the clutch disengages (are you sure?) the engine should turn (when you get it free) independent of the rest of the drive train. The clutch moves back + forth a little, but can you turn it at all with the pedal blocked down? You'll have to be careful of the friction surface but you might get it to turn a little with a slender block of wood? I never tried this. If the disc actually turns, with the tranny in neutral and rears blocked up, you only know the input side of the tranny isn't bunged up, something could still be broken back of that.
I don't know where you are, but could this machine have gotten water in the gearbox that froze sometime? That could crack a housing out of alignment and jam up gears and shafts. Have you checked for cracks in the castings? Have you checked gearbox and rear check plugs or drain plugs? See what comes out of the drains into a pail. Ice ain't good in there. These are very tough tractors, but sometimes enough is enough.
You can't lose much by pulling the head. Try tapping pistons with the block of wood almost as big as piston tops. Try the prybar on the ring gear idea. I doubt the hand crank will budge it, and I'd be afraid of putting too much torque on the crank damper bolt or nut.
If something in the drive train broke while this tractor was being used (plow in the ground, etc.) I could imagine the owner leaving it right there as is as was. Maybe thinking to get to it later, maybe giving up on it 'cause there were several things wrong with it. The engine could have rusted up later. Can you find anyone who knows the history?
Keep us informed as you go.
Jim