Selecting a quality enclosed trailer

jeffah · Apr 3, 2014

I'm looking for some input. While shopping for a trailer I have seen a broad range of prices, features and options. What are the most important things to look for when selecting an enclosed trailer that I want to last for years.

I am looking for a 7x14 7000 lb dual axle enclosed trailer. I'm pretty sure I want brakes on both axles, and maybe a slightly 'overbuilt' trailer even if it weighs a bit more and reduces my payload slightly.

The trailer will be used once every week or so for business and personal use moving building materials or furniture. Mostly short hauls close to home, but I wouldn't rule out longer distances on occasion.

After weeks of research I just can't sort of the deals from the garbage. How important is axle brand, frame type and size, roof type, stud spacing, wall, ceiling and floor material etc.

Thanks

Diamondpilot · Apr 3, 2014

A fully wrapped tongue is important. Radial tires are important. Axle brands no so much. ALKO, Dexter, ect are all ok.

Look for quality fit and finish and a good wiring job.

Chris

3930dave · Apr 3, 2014

Consider all aluminum trailers. Lighter to tow empty, and for the extra money, you get more payload.

At 7,000#, if you don't know the regs well in your home State, and any others you plan on using the trailer in.... some due diligence is in order. Some jurisdicitions are getting right nasty about anything over 10,000# combined weight.

Rgds, D.

imgone52 · Apr 3, 2014

One good way to figure out the good brands to look at is to pay attention to what the contractors (carpenters, electricians and the like) in your area are using. Perhaps, even engaging them in conversation about their rigs (and dealers) and how satisfied they are. Good luck with your quest.

Dishpointer · Apr 4, 2014

I would also recommend getting pressure treated flooring since you will be using it quite often. Most companies use regular plywood. The last thing you want to deal with is changing out a rotted floor when the side walls are built on top of it. For a few extra bucks, it's one thing to get and not have to worry about.

Cat_Driver · Apr 4, 2014

3930dave said:
Consider all aluminum trailers. Lighter to tow empty, and for the extra money, you get more payload.

At 7,000#, if you don't know the regs well in your home State, and any others you plan on using the trailer in.... some due diligence is in order. Some jurisdicitions are getting right nasty about anything over 10,000# combined weight.

Rgds, D.

I just quoted out a full aluminum dump trailer for that reason, compared to steel. Both same specs - Steel was $7,000 - All aluminum was $14,000. My question is who is buying all aluminum trailers that are twice the price of steel.

newbury · Apr 4, 2014

Other considerations:
Clearance - Do you want drop axles? Do you need more clearance?
My BIL has an 8x20 w/ drop axles that barely clears a pack of cigarettes, not good for rough construction sites. For my applications that won't do
Do you want the door to drop down as a ramp or open up and have your own ramps, perhaps slideout?

You probably want LED's for lights but do you need interior light and power? I'd get an interior strip put in at the start.

3930dave · Apr 4, 2014

Cat_Driver said:
I just quoted out a full aluminum dump trailer for that reason, compared to steel. Both same specs - Steel was $7,000 - All aluminum was $14,000. My question is who is buying all aluminum trailers that are twice the price of steel.

Haven't priced those myself, the lighter (than dump) trailers I was looking at listed at maybe 50% over steel, but that was a while ago.

As fuel stays up/increases, more people are going to bite the aluminum bullet. Note I said more, not a lot

. A big production example is Ford, with the F150.

Like any expense, deciding to pay for aluminum will depend a lot on intended use. Buddy of mine did a lot of shopping around to find a New Old Stock single axle enclosed aluminum trailer. Running that around to MX tracks all over half the continent, the higher (but a great price for aluminum) price of his trailer was paid for long ago.

OP didn't mention budget..... I mentioned aluminum as one thing I'd seriously consider, if I had the money at my disposal.

Jeffah - I meant to vote for definitely brakes on both axles - I'd personally never buy a new trailer w/o spec'ing it that way. You can always dial back the brake controller, but other than throwing out an anchor, it's pretty hard to add brakes once rolling !

One more thing on brakes.... I noticed a while ago that Dexter had optional self-adjusting brake assemblies. I haven't used them myself, but as long as you find no problems reported (my expectation is that Dexter did it right), I'd consider spec'ing them onto a trailer-to-order (meaning yet to be built). Normal trailer brakes aren't a big deal to adjust; it's just another maintenance item that a lot of people skip/ignore.

Rgds, D.

brokenknee · Apr 4, 2014

In MN brakes are required on all axles anything that is rated over 3,000 #. That being said I think most manufactures now have them on both axles; your only worry would be if you purchased a used trailer then that may not be the case.