Septic Fun

   / Septic Fun #1  

KiotiAcres

New member
Joined
Jun 17, 2006
Messages
15
Been trying to help my parents trouble-shoot a septic issue. Wondered if anyone here might have some ideas.

Since the weather turned cold here in Northern California, they've been getting septic odor in the house. Recently their septic backed up into the house. The tank was pumped, and about a week later the indoor septic order increased dramatically.

No before I dig up their leach field and septic with my Kioti (tractor content), I want to see if anyone has any ideas. The following has been checked:
- Sludge side of tank is now empty, liquid side is full and is flowing to junction box and to leach lines. Leach lines are at least functional.
- All P-Traps have water in them and are functioning.
- All vents to roof have been cleared, both with a snake and with a hose
- Bacteria (and brewer's yeast) was flushed into septic to promote bacterial growth.
- Smell is not mild or moderate. It's extreme, nearly eye-watering.

Any ideas/thoughts before we rip the whole thing out?
 
   / Septic Fun #2  
Is it possible that when it backed up into the house that the sewage water is now in traps and the odor is coming from there? What was the cause of the back up?

Sincerely, Dirt
 
   / Septic Fun #3  
Broken pipes, vents or fittings inside the house?
 
   / Septic Fun
  • Thread Starter
#4  
All good points. The original backup was caused by a large root that took over the line from the septic tank to the distribution box. That line was replaced.

We've checked all the pluming and vent lines that were accessible. They're moving on to checking the ones behind walls, etc. to check them.

They've run fresh water through all the vents and drains to clear out any backed up sewage.
 
   / Septic Fun #5  
Since it was pumped and you have the smell here are a few ideas..

1. Rotor root the line from the house all the way to the tank..
This "should" ensure that everything is clear all the way out..
I have been told that in cold weather "stuff" can become slow to move..
2. Check all the T-s, wonder if there is a vent valve that got filled..
I have one under my kitchen sink and was told that if we ever had a
backup to ensure that it is clear..

Have you added any Rid-Ex? or as a friend suggested-- ButterMilk?

Both need alot of water to back flush...

If you are on a GOOD well-- let lots of water flow thru all sinks and toilets..enough to clear the pipes from that point to the next drain-
City Water may make this expensive..
BUT you can't use too much or it will flood the drain field...

Let us know what happens..

Later,
J
 
   / Septic Fun #6  
Can you add a curb trap?
Some towns require a curb trap, a trap and vent before the building so the fumes don't come in side.

it might help if you are diggin it woulden't be to hard to add.

tom
 
   / Septic Fun #7  
I'm a bit puzzled by your comments about the septic tank. On the ones I've looked at, there are two chambers; inlet and outlet. Most of the sludge stays in the inlet chamber. The second chamber is fed from the top of the first chamber. It outputs (mostly) water to the leach field.

After pumping, there's no output to the leach field until both chambers refill. All fluid must pass through both chambers. There's too much solid material in the first chamber to permit feeding any kind of leach field.

Is there any chance that the odor is natural gas or propane odorant instead of sewer gas? A friend's RV started stinking and it took over a month for us to discover that he had bumped one burner valve enough to cause a slow, steady leak. Cold weather made the problem worse; the windows were all closed.

-Karl
 
   / Septic Fun #8  
Im a little confused on the style of tank you are using as it sound different than what we use here. Our tanks have baffels before the output to the field to prevent solids from plugging up the perferations in the field pipe. The fluid level is the same from one end to the other. Solids drop out in the first chamber after it leaves the house.

If your getting smells in the house id check your venting. It is possible for vents to freeze, especially if not installed correctly.
How is the flow from the drains? Do the tubs/sinks drain fast?
Are you sure that the previous backup in the house was adequately cleaned up? (ie Bleach / disinfectants?)
Also if you had problems with a tree its reasonable to assume that you may have more issues in the leach field with plugging from roots or silt.A plugged field (ie old or full of silt)can cause sewage to go to the surface instead of down through the gravel into the ground. This could cause smells in the house, especially in the summer with windows open.

Is it possible to have someone put a camera down and check your drains from the house out to the field? It may save some time and digging.
 
   / Septic Fun #9  
If it's strong enough to make your eyes water you've got a leak somewhere. I'd treat it like a new install and do a pressure test. I'm betting they have a broken line somewhere. The last thing I'd expect is the tank or the drain field. That smell simply cannot get back into the house without a problem with the piping inside or under the house, assuming of course that the system was properly designed and installed to begin with. Is it possible they have a free standing island in the kitchen with a sink in it? That's a common location for a check valve vent. If it sticks open you can get fumes back inside the house. Good luck with it but park the tractor.
 
   / Septic Fun #10  
I'm surprised that the Peoples Republic of California would allow you to do that yourself. Some places get down right grumpy when non-certified people mess with septic. If you do take a crack at it, you may want to ensure that you are legally able to do so BEFORE they clamp on the leg irons.

jb
 

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