Setting up reax diff on mf 65

[rabet]

Hi all,
Have been searching utube but cannot find anything.
I have completly stripped the tractor and after repairing all the broken items I can turn my thoughts to rebuilding.
Need to start with fitting the diff unit into the axle casing and setting the bearing pre load, BUT I CANNOT FIND ANY INFO ON SETTINGS.
I have a copy of workshop manual but it seems to skip this process.
Can anyone offer any information please, or give copy of how??

I would be very greatful.

rabet

 

[PatrickS2222]

Looking through my copy of 135/148 workshop manual - should be same for your tractor, I found only some info - as follows: -

Pinion bearing preload: 20in/lbs (1.67ft/lbs; 0.25kg/m);

Carrier bearing preload: Described a lengthy process of determining which thickness of "chip shield" is required. I would suggest if you are renewing these bearings, re-use the same one - you will have it very close without needing the special tools it lists, and the "feel" should be a reliable guide. My years of experience of overhauling the occasional truck or car diff tells me the preload on this pair of bearings can be around double the preload on pinion bearings.

Diff centre spider gears and side gears: No specs, but again from experience minimal to none is best.

Gear backlash: Crown wheel and pinion - no stated specification. I would suggest again to reassemble with the original shims and measure - if it is anywhere between .010-.025" (.25-.60mm) that should be Ok. Measure this with a dial gauge if you can, otherwise a narrow feeler gauge between the gear teeth (coated with oil) will give you a reliable guide.

I hope this helps, but the information just doesn't appear to be there.
Cheers, Pat.

 

[rabet]

Hi Patrick,
Thanks for that, and as you say the info does not seem to be available. strange I wonder why.

Rabet

 

[PatrickS2222]

I reckon they presume this is done by a diff specialist, but it isn't "Rocket Science" if you know what you are doing.
If you have the hydraulics plate removed, it wouldn't hurt to just take a look at the tooth contact pattern after you have reassembled the diff, not that you can easily adjust anything - but if the backlash is close enough to correct, the contact area should be at least Ok.