Mowing Sharpening blades on a MX6...

[c460053]

Hey there,

I have a JD MX6 and I'm looking for guidance on sharpening the blades. This unit is used, but new to me. I'm coming at this from over 15 years in the turf care industry, with little knowledge in the details of maintaining the blades on this deck.

I'm looking for the easiest way to do this. Remove and grind or grind in place? Also, how sharp of an edge? I've got a bundle of new blades for the MX6 which, compared to blades for my Ferris mowers, are "dull". I realize that sharpness and quality of cut aren't quite the issues in FM that they are in turf grass cutting, but what should my target be?

Thanks for your time,

dws

 

[SandyTX]

I take mine off and take them to a local blacksmith (metal worker). He heats then up and puts an edge back on them for me while bending them back and cleaning up the edges. Last time it ran me about $25 for the pair.

 

[lungdoc]

See bottom of page for similar threads with some good advice. I took a grinder to mine after raising hog up and using a jack to provide extra safety. My thought is that if you are cutting more grass-hay material they can be more sharp, but will be more susceptible to getting the edge broken off or dulled in the rough stuff then if you start with a blunter edge. For true brush/small trees you want it fairly dull to not leave sharp stakes remaining- you want them smashed and not sliced.

 

[sandman2234]

I never remove my blades. Lungdoc pretty much nailed it, but wanted to add that you should never get under a raised mower. One way around that is to drive it up on a trailer and leave the mower sticking out a little so it is supported, just in case it decideds to fall. Probably never will, but it only takes once to send you to the Promise Land...
David from Jax

 

[Deadman]

I don't understand how you guys can do a good job sharpening those blades when you are laying under the machine, and trying to hold the blades and the grinder?
I remove mine, clamp them in a Vice, and then get them perfect with an Angle Grinder. It takes me 2 minutes to remove the blades from my John Deere LX5, so there is no way I'm laying underneath it and working! :laughing: I'm only 30 years old too!

I think its a 42MM socket that removes mine, and impact gun, so its simply as can be.

 

[ham]

I guess my concern, knowing me, is that I won't get he bolts tight and I will wind up throwing a blade through a window, hence I am like the other guys...I just use a hand grinder. I also get my mower well elevated so can do it comfortably. A reasonalbe edge on mine out mows my push mower. If you have it real sharp and are cutting big stuff don't worry...they won't have an edge for long

 

[beenthere]

............

I'm looking for the easiest way to do this. Remove and grind or grind in place? Also, how sharp of an edge? I've got a bundle of new blades for the MX6 which, compared to blades for my Ferris mowers, are "dull". I realize that sharpness and quality of cut aren't quite the issues in FM that they are in turf grass cutting, but what should my target be?

Thanks for your time,

dws

If you have extra blades to put on, then I'd suggest switching them out with the used ones. New blades are not "sharp" at the edge, but have about an 1/8" flat on the cutting edge. Probably stay sharper longer and do the job on weeds and brush.

I have a loader and simply lift the deck on edge, chain to a tree limb for safety, and stand with an angle grinder to take the rough edges off.

 

[Deadman]

I have all the large brush cut down, so maintaining the already cut down areas is easy on sharp blades. There is some tiny young growth trees, but usually not much more than weeds and crap. I sharpen mine very sharp, and they keep their edge because I only use them on the weeds n grass. If I were to get into brush, they would dull, or break out I'm sure.

 

[c460053]

Thank you all for the info! I cut a random combo of grass and light brush, but do end up going at blackberry patches and some of the rougher stuff now and again.

I've got plenty of blades, so I guess I was just wondering if it was more cost effective/efficient to swap out and grind at the shop or grind in place. I've got tons of time grinding turf blades under my belt, but if grinding in place is "good enough" I can do that also.

Sorry if this post was an often asked question, I'm here using the iPhone app and haven't found a way to search the forums yet.

Thanks again for all the info,

dws

 

[sandman2234]

If you load the tractor/bushhog on your trailer, and leave the end extended over the back of the trailer, grab a chair and sit down while you grind the blade at the back of the bushhog. If holding it is a problem, then use a pair of vice grips to extend the end to where it hits on the edge of the sheetmetal, thereby keeping it from moving. I prefer not to do any work that I don't need to, and removing the blades is extra work to me. I usually can sharpen them faster than I can get them removed, but that might have something to do with never removing them... so they can get stuck over time.
David from jax