applepicker
Member
To protect top link of my BX 2350, I am considering using a shear bolt in place of the top pin. Has anyone tried this? I am concerned about hitting something and damaging the top link etc.
Shear Bolt and King Kutter Single Point Ripper
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schmism
Super Member
thats a hydrostat right?
the hydro will bog before you take out the Toplink. Even if it was a geared tractor i dought you could generate enough traction to damage the top link before you spun the tires....
how fast do you think your gonna go anyway?!?!
the hydro will bog before you take out the Toplink. Even if it was a geared tractor i dought you could generate enough traction to damage the top link before you spun the tires....
how fast do you think your gonna go anyway?!?!
RonMar
Elite Member
What do you think is going to happen if you use a shear pin and it breaks? Is this the one piece frame and ripper that is solid/welded like the one on their website? King Kutter Incorporated When in use, the toplink is in compression while the shank is being drawn thru the soil, if the pin on top shears, the whole frame is going to pivot at the lift pins and roll the top of the frame forward and down, possibly into the PTO shaft or it's guard or the back of the drawbar. This might wind up damaging the rear end of the toplink anyway(mashing threads) as it will also be dropping uncontrolled down into the ripper framework. The pin shearing might also damage the heim joint end of the toplink or either of those metal tabs at the top of the ripper frame as it is probably not a real tight fit at the top and the pin probably won't shear evenly. This might cause it to bend severly before breaking instead of shearing cleanly. I think I would rather take my chances with a bent toplink. The ripper I have (rankin ER series) has the vertical ripper shank attached to the ripper frame in a tight groove with two bolts. The lower bolt down near the bottom of the frame is a grade 2 and acts as a shear pin. In this case, the frame stays upright and the whole ripper shank pivots backward if the pin should shear Here is a pic:
http://www.rankineqco.com/pdf/singleshankrippers.pdf
Since the toplink is in compression and relatively thick by comparison, I think it would be far more likley that you would bend/break the bolted in lift pins on the lower frame of the ripper before you damage a toplink anyway.
Rule one with ground engagement, GO SLOW. It is a tractor not a hammer. Don't store energy in momentum. Like a car wreck, the energy stored in momentum is going to be expended in the bending and twisting of metal if the impliment hangs up on an immovable object. The tires breaking traction at a slow speed will keep the hardware from bending/twisting/breaking. If the tractor does not have enough traction to do the job, get a bigger tractor to do the work.
http://www.rankineqco.com/pdf/singleshankrippers.pdf
Since the toplink is in compression and relatively thick by comparison, I think it would be far more likley that you would bend/break the bolted in lift pins on the lower frame of the ripper before you damage a toplink anyway.
Rule one with ground engagement, GO SLOW. It is a tractor not a hammer. Don't store energy in momentum. Like a car wreck, the energy stored in momentum is going to be expended in the bending and twisting of metal if the impliment hangs up on an immovable object. The tires breaking traction at a slow speed will keep the hardware from bending/twisting/breaking. If the tractor does not have enough traction to do the job, get a bigger tractor to do the work.
Highbeam
Super Member
I have no shear pin to protect my tractor when using the bigger TSC subsoiler. In my soil which is fairly dense but not rocky, it takes almost all of my 30 HP in low range to keep pulling the subsoiler slowly. In medium range the engine does not make enough power. The subsoiler "bit" actually heats up to where it is warm to the touch.
It is a slow process to pull a subsoiler. Go slow, have a beverage, and concentrate on keeping the rows straight. At the slow speeds there really aren't any big shock loads to the subsoiler that would pop a shear bolt.
Now if you are trying to cut roots or pull out stumps then there is a potential for shock loads which is why stump pulling is again one of the hardest things on a small tractor.
It is a slow process to pull a subsoiler. Go slow, have a beverage, and concentrate on keeping the rows straight. At the slow speeds there really aren't any big shock loads to the subsoiler that would pop a shear bolt.
Now if you are trying to cut roots or pull out stumps then there is a potential for shock loads which is why stump pulling is again one of the hardest things on a small tractor.